That's not a coincidence, the alternator output was running the pump motor. A higher output alternator and 2 batteries with an isolator would be a better setup for a liftgate and a plow. At a minimum, I would use a deep cycle battery instead of a standard auto battery.
Hydraulics stalling my truck when raising liftgate
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amanda11270
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OK so I did some digging into it, its not my battery. Pump electric motor was throwing the current draw way way way over the top. Also I connected this 200 amp starter/charger and it would not turn the motor. The pump itself turns free though. I used this as an opportunity to replace the single hydraulic line, replace the contactors, etc since I had to remove quite a bit to get the pump assy out of the gate. Thanks, I will have to see how it works when my new parts arrive.
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amanda11270
Silver Member
OK so I installed my new electric motor and solenoid, new hydraulic hose and same thing. I was thinking battery again, but decided to call my local snowplow place as its the off season and thinking they are slow and I might get to talk to a service guy. I bought my plow from them so they may be willing to help I thought. Well I was right, they asked me to run jumper cables from the battery to the electric motor and wallah! Fast pump operation. They told me over time the cables in that 20 foot length build up a resistance, and cannot carry the same amperage or voltage it once did. They suggested running a neg (just used the truck frame previously) as well as a new positive cable in 4 AWG. Just ordered them tonight! At least my truck will be ready for work once im done.
Industrial Toys
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Great. But I never heard of a copper conductor increasing in resistance. Certainly the ends can give you grief.
100 td
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I expect the connection between cable and chassis has rust under it etc., or chassis and battery or one of the positive connections. The resistance may change "slightly" due to work hardening, but not enough to affect it's performance in this application. There is a bad connection or bad battery somewhere.
swnoel
Silver Member
I'm guessing that corrosion may have formed inside the sheathing creating this, otherwise it is either a bad connection, failing alternator and/or battery.
theoretically, yes. The hotter a wire becomes the less it will conduct. Ever notice how jumper cables can get with a shorted battery, especially with some homeowner 8 or 10 guage ones?
:thumbsup: or is :thumbdown:? to be right side up?
RustyA
Platinum Member
Very common with long positive starter cables or long leads to rear winches. Over time corrosion creeps under sheath and causes voltage or amperage drop or excessive resistance. I would also consider dual batteries or AGM high cca battery that's designed for repeated discharge from plow/liftgate.
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amanda11270
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The wiring running to the rear of the truck did the trick, I ran a 4 AWG pos and grd to the gate. This is a somewhat rusty truck. It was a former DEP truck from NYC. I also replaced the solenoid contactor under the hood and wiring to it since I had already replaced everything else electrically as well. I changed the hydraulic fluid, cleaned the pump screen, and greased every pivot on the gate. It raises faster than I have ever seen it now, it actually coasts slightly when going up now when you let off the up switch it moves so much smoother. I am thinking of adding a second battery in the future, it has a space for it under the hood already. Thanks for all the help and info.
