Hydro to run at least @ 2500 rpms?
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Jrrcorp
Silver Member
Having switched fron gear to hydro last year at this time, I have found that to just drive that JD4410 from where I park it, it should rev at at least 1800-2000 RPM. Loader work, 2200 to 2500 RPM, any PTO work 2500 RPM. My gear driven Kubota seamed to be less forgiving for loader work or transporting at lower RPM's. If you have enough experience with tractors/loaders, skid steers, you should be able to tell in short term how the machine repsonds and how the engine and transmission sound at various speeds and under various loads. Listen to the machine. It will tell you when something is wrong long before it fails. JMOP
Bob_Young
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2002
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- North of the Fingerlakes - NY
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- Ford 4000; Ford 2000(both 3cyl.);JD40; 2004 Kubota L4300; 2006 Kubota B7610; new 2007 Kubota MX5000
Jrrcorp:
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Did you mean 'more' forgiving in your post? My gear driven Kubota transports at 1200 to 1500 RPM and rarely reaches 1800 RPM doing loader work. Only time I get to 2000 RPM is when running the PTO.
Bob
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Did you mean 'more' forgiving in your post? My gear driven Kubota transports at 1200 to 1500 RPM and rarely reaches 1800 RPM doing loader work. Only time I get to 2000 RPM is when running the PTO.
Bob
RalphVa
Super Member
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- Dec 19, 2003
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- Charlottesville, VA, USA
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- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
Depends on how fast you want to work. Also, depends on how much strain you put on the engine. If you're lifting an empty bucket and don't mind waiting for it to lift with the engine at idle, do it. If the 3 pt has a load that's around 1/2 its capacity or less, lift it at idle if the engine does it without slowing down or straining (even my 18.5 hp engine doesn't strain with the brush hog on it at idle, to just lift it; just don't do this while turning the wheel, lifting the FEL, etc. at idle). Use common sense.
If you want things to move faster and reduce strain on the engine, rev it up. That diesel will run at full throttle all day long all its life. It doesn't rev more than about 3300 rpm. That's peanuts. My Benz engine revs to 4400 rpm and does so almost every time through 1st and 2nd gears. It'll cruise all day at 85-90 mph at top speed on the engine on the Autobahn. More engines have probably been killed by underrevving than by overrevving.
Don't be afraid of revving your engine. Just wait until it warms up a tad to fully load it up. With synthetic oil in engine and in hydraulic fluid, that warmup period will be less and less; they're less viscous when cold.
Ralph
If you want things to move faster and reduce strain on the engine, rev it up. That diesel will run at full throttle all day long all its life. It doesn't rev more than about 3300 rpm. That's peanuts. My Benz engine revs to 4400 rpm and does so almost every time through 1st and 2nd gears. It'll cruise all day at 85-90 mph at top speed on the engine on the Autobahn. More engines have probably been killed by underrevving than by overrevving.
Don't be afraid of revving your engine. Just wait until it warms up a tad to fully load it up. With synthetic oil in engine and in hydraulic fluid, that warmup period will be less and less; they're less viscous when cold.
Ralph
frank_f15
Super Member, Rest in Peace
I just came in from clearing about 3 or 4 in. of snow, set the rpm at about 1900 to 2000 and that seemed more than enough for the job, can't imagine needing to kick the RPM up to 2500 for that lind of light work. ido run higher when doing HEAVY loader work and at 2600 for pto speed but for normal light duty usually 1800 to 2000, don't know which is right? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
daTeacha
Veteran Member
Bump!
I kind of feel like I started all this since it was me that 73jeep was quoting first about the dealer saying the hydro needed about 2500 rpm to work well.
I was at another dealer yesterday, checking out an Agco st28a. The sales guy was out on a call, but the service tech was there. I drove the thing around the lot and was asking him about it. He also suggested that hydros should be driven with the engine running faster than a gear tractor person is used to.
I commented about the lack of steering brakes on the tractor and he also said the use of turning brakes and the resultant sliding of the front around or locking a rear wheel puts strain on hydro parts. He said in his opinion the turning brakes were designed in the era of 2wd only, and a lot of CUT buyers would tend to use them in 4wd, no matter what the dealers tell them, so manufacturers find it better to just have one brake pedal.
That latter makes sense. People not used to tractors climbing onto a modern CUT with a hydro trans will tend to drive them like cars, not being aware or caring that the brakes work only on the rear wheels.
Now getting back to the gist of this thread, I tend to drive the Kubota with the hand throttle set at a fast idle -- I'm guessing about 1500 rpm, then use the foot throttle to vary speed and power if more of either is needed. I rarely run the thing wide open -- only if moving a heavy load uphill. I rely on engine braking a lot on my hilly terrain, and thus am in 4wd all the time. I use the throttle and engine braking to slow the tractor.
Do hydros give much engine braking action? I've only driven demos on flat ground except for a little hill yesterday with the st28a. Then, it seemed that there was a much greater tendency to proceed down the hill from gravity than in my gear tractor. If you let off the pedal on a hydro with a load in the bucket while going downhill, will the tractor stop, or continue moving down the hill? If you lighten upon the pedal, does it slow under those conditions? Sorry to sound ignorant, but I am. Comments, please??
I kind of feel like I started all this since it was me that 73jeep was quoting first about the dealer saying the hydro needed about 2500 rpm to work well.
I was at another dealer yesterday, checking out an Agco st28a. The sales guy was out on a call, but the service tech was there. I drove the thing around the lot and was asking him about it. He also suggested that hydros should be driven with the engine running faster than a gear tractor person is used to.
I commented about the lack of steering brakes on the tractor and he also said the use of turning brakes and the resultant sliding of the front around or locking a rear wheel puts strain on hydro parts. He said in his opinion the turning brakes were designed in the era of 2wd only, and a lot of CUT buyers would tend to use them in 4wd, no matter what the dealers tell them, so manufacturers find it better to just have one brake pedal.
That latter makes sense. People not used to tractors climbing onto a modern CUT with a hydro trans will tend to drive them like cars, not being aware or caring that the brakes work only on the rear wheels.
Now getting back to the gist of this thread, I tend to drive the Kubota with the hand throttle set at a fast idle -- I'm guessing about 1500 rpm, then use the foot throttle to vary speed and power if more of either is needed. I rarely run the thing wide open -- only if moving a heavy load uphill. I rely on engine braking a lot on my hilly terrain, and thus am in 4wd all the time. I use the throttle and engine braking to slow the tractor.
Do hydros give much engine braking action? I've only driven demos on flat ground except for a little hill yesterday with the st28a. Then, it seemed that there was a much greater tendency to proceed down the hill from gravity than in my gear tractor. If you let off the pedal on a hydro with a load in the bucket while going downhill, will the tractor stop, or continue moving down the hill? If you lighten upon the pedal, does it slow under those conditions? Sorry to sound ignorant, but I am. Comments, please??
bugstruck
Platinum Member
daTeacha,
Hydros I've run have great breaking power. Mine is 3,300 lbs clean and near 8K lbs. in my configuration. I have serious hills and it will not stop completely when I let off the pedal, but just about. That's a 3130, but most are similiar in braking. That's in low or mid range. Never tried it in High on the hills.
The 2,500 rpm seems a little excessive for most tasks I do. Generally, run around 2,000 to 2,300 when working it hard and 1,800 on the backhoe unless I have to get agressive. Run it about 1,600 if I'm swapping FEL implements around. Idle it at 1,200 or 1,300 for short ons and offs.
Hydros I've run have great breaking power. Mine is 3,300 lbs clean and near 8K lbs. in my configuration. I have serious hills and it will not stop completely when I let off the pedal, but just about. That's a 3130, but most are similiar in braking. That's in low or mid range. Never tried it in High on the hills.
The 2,500 rpm seems a little excessive for most tasks I do. Generally, run around 2,000 to 2,300 when working it hard and 1,800 on the backhoe unless I have to get agressive. Run it about 1,600 if I'm swapping FEL implements around. Idle it at 1,200 or 1,300 for short ons and offs.
DocHeb
Veteran Member
Just for the record, my New Holland TC40D-SS has turning brakes. I rarely use them since I don't do much row work, and using turning brakes rips the soil up quite a bit.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If you let off the pedal on a hydro with a load in the bucket while going downhill, will the tractor stop, or continue moving down the hill? If you lighten upon the pedal, does it slow under those conditions? Sorry to sound ignorant, but I am. Comments, please?? )</font>
Letting up on the HST while going down a 20% grade with my HST will result in one of two things happening:
1) If I am in 2WD, there is so much HST braking force to the one wheel it will lock up, and under wet grass conditions the tractor will continue to slide. I've had two rides like this, and it wasn't until I understood what was going on that I learned point two.
2) If I am in 4WD, the HST braking force is applied eaually to both rear wheels and I will stop, whether it is wet or not. No sliding. If I let up, I go slower.
I have a TC40D with Super Steer, which has an autosensing 4WD activation feature. That means, the tractor operates in 2WD until slippage is detected, and the 4WD kicks in when needed. This is a great feature, and really saves the grass from tight turn destruction. I tend to keep it in the Autosense mode, but when working on hills I now force 4WD. I don't think this Autosense feature works when slowing down, only with speeding-up or under load.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If you let off the pedal on a hydro with a load in the bucket while going downhill, will the tractor stop, or continue moving down the hill? If you lighten upon the pedal, does it slow under those conditions? Sorry to sound ignorant, but I am. Comments, please?? )</font>
Letting up on the HST while going down a 20% grade with my HST will result in one of two things happening:
1) If I am in 2WD, there is so much HST braking force to the one wheel it will lock up, and under wet grass conditions the tractor will continue to slide. I've had two rides like this, and it wasn't until I understood what was going on that I learned point two.
2) If I am in 4WD, the HST braking force is applied eaually to both rear wheels and I will stop, whether it is wet or not. No sliding. If I let up, I go slower.
I have a TC40D with Super Steer, which has an autosensing 4WD activation feature. That means, the tractor operates in 2WD until slippage is detected, and the 4WD kicks in when needed. This is a great feature, and really saves the grass from tight turn destruction. I tend to keep it in the Autosense mode, but when working on hills I now force 4WD. I don't think this Autosense feature works when slowing down, only with speeding-up or under load.
