hydrualic top link

   / hydrualic top link #3  
If I wanted a complete top link with ball ends welded on and dual pilot operated check valve...no doubt in my my mind I would follow the inspector's links...

If you want to make your own, you could look at the Prince Wizzard line of cylinders that are bought without any ends on them at all...ready for you to weld on what you want to.

The Carter and Carter top link is really quite reasonably priced, considering that a dual check valve would cost about $60, plus fittings to hook it up, plus the cost of a cylinder and the ball ends...

My vote goes C&C top link cylinder. Hard to beat the price, all things considered... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / hydrualic top link #4  
When I shopped, at the time I found that Mark at C&C had the mostest for the leastest. It works great on the box blade. In fact, I am contacting my legislators to make it a federal law that all box blades come standard with a HTL at no extra charge. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / hydrualic top link #5  
Top link from CCM (Carter & Carter). This one I painted ROPS gray. Best bang for the buck.
 

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   / hydrualic top link #6  
Wherever you should decide to get your top link, I am sure that you will be happy with it. You won't see too many users complaining about them at this site. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / hydrualic top link #7  
I followed the link to Carter and Carter...
So, which one would I buy for my L3130? The 18-26"? Also, what else do I need to get to hook it up? $150 seems too reasonable. I thought it cost over a grand to get a hydraulic toplink, or is that with the tilt, also?
One more if you please... Can you travel over bumps with the implement raised or is that too much strain on the cylinder? In other words, do you need to "lock" the implement in a raised position?

Thanks for any help.
 
   / hydrualic top link #8  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I thought it cost over a grand to get a hydraulic toplink)</font>

I think that is the total cost if you DON'T already have the hydraulic remote on your Kubota. I keep hearing that Kubota can be expensive (compared to other manufacturers) to add to if they weren't already there.

Mark
 
   / hydrualic top link #9  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( So, which one would I buy for my L3130? The 18-26"?)</font>

Measure the min and max extension of your existing top link, center hole to center hole and buy the top link that is closest. For a Kubota B-series the 18"-26" is the one.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Also, what else do I need to get to hook it up? $150 seems too reasonable. I thought it cost over a grand to get a hydraulic toplink, or is that with the tilt, also)</font>

You will need either a Kubota factory remote or you can roll your own with at least a single spool valve with power beyond. In either case you will need a hose kit to connect your remote to the top link. CCM sells the hose kit for $30 additional.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( One more if you please... Can you travel over bumps with the implement raised or is that too much strain on the cylinder? In other words, do you need to "lock" the implement in a raised position?)</font>

I have no problems with mine. With the double pilot operated check valves the cylinder will not leak down.
 
   / hydrualic top link #10  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( In either case you will need a hose kit to connect your remote to the top link. )</font>

Thanks for the answers, guys, but I'll need a lot more than the parts to get the job done /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

I'm not very hands on mechanically inclined when it comes to engines and hydraulics, but I can follow a good set of instructions and own more than a big hammer and vice grips /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Do any of these parts come with a what hooks to where manual in reference to specific tractors?
 
 

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