I broke it again.

[Tchamp]

I broke the pivot arm on my 2422 again, have it apart already and waiting for the machine shop to turn down another section of round stock to replace the broken one, this time i am going to have the center bar supported with corner bracing so it will not flex as easly, distributing the pressures across the center section more evenly. Will put pics up when i am done.
I have to check the hydraulic pressures for the lift and see if they are correct. Terry told me that on the lift and steering its 2,100 psi and on the aux its 2500 psi. I am thinking that may be my issue for the failure. (Me worrking the machine to its limits has nothing to do with it at all ) lol.

 

[Coffee drinker]

It never crossed our minds. That is a neat little machine.

 

[ponytug]

View attachment 861735View attachment 861738View attachment 861739

I broke the pivot arm on my 2422 again, have it apart already and waiting for the machine shop to turn down another section of round stock to replace the broken one, this time i am going to have the center bar supported with corner bracing so it will not flex as easly, distributing the pressures across the center section more evenly. Will put pics up when i am done.
I have to check the hydraulic pressures for the lift and see if they are correct. Terry told me that on the lift and steering its 2,100 psi and on the aux its 2500 psi. I am thinking that may be my issue for the failure. (Me worrking the machine to its limits has nothing to do with it at all ) lol.

Ouch! Sorry to see that. Based on my own experience, trying to tackle immovable objects, the back wheel(s) come up before any noticeable relief valve action, at least on my PT.

By corner bracing, do you mean gussets? If so, I think that it is a good idea. Have you considered upgrading the outer roll tube wall thickness as well?

Since you have had this apart before, how large is the spacing between the inner bar and the outer roll tube? And out of curiosity, how do you align the outer and inner tubes when welding it up so that the spacing is uniform? (Just curious; it seems not trivial to an amateur welder like me.)

All the best,

Peter

 

[MossRoad]

...(Me worrking the machine to its limits has nothing to do with it at all ) lol.

We didn't think so either.

Thanks for documenting the procedure.

 

[m5040]

I would check the relief valve for that circuit/spool. Just get a 3 to 4k lb gauge with a -4 JIC male fitting and install it on a hose that goes to the tilt cylinder and momentarily dead head it (best with hot hyd oil).
On the repair, why not get a hardened steel pin that can go from side to side on the loader arms and bore out the Z pivot to allow the one pin to pass through the center? (Use brass bushings in the Z pivot and weld on extensions to the loader arms for through bolts to secure the hardened pin from turning).
When it breaks, where is the first point of failure? Does the pin break out of the weld in the loader arm and then break the Z pivot?
What attachment were you using when it failed?

 

[5030]

You do realize that you can buy bar stock in the required diameter you need without resorting to paying a machine shop to turn it for you I presume. McMaster Carr sells bar stock in many different diameters as alloy's as well and so does Grainger as well as Contractor Steel and Alro.

Have no idea where you are at but I keep many diameters of cold rolled bar stock on hand. Stainless as well.

Looks like those fulcrum pins are a but short on grease as well. They are obviously galled and that contributes to reduced capacity and it ovals out the holes they go through as well.

 

[MossRoad]

...Based on my own experience, trying to tackle immovable objects, the back wheel(s) come up before any noticeable relief valve action, at least on my PT.

...

Same thing on my PT425. I've never had the relief kick in that I know of. The rears ALWAYS come off the ground.

I'm wondering if the 2422's weight distribution is significantly different?

Also, I think I recall many years ago some folks had that same problem on the 400 series, and I think I recall PT making a beefier rollover assembly since then.

 

[Tchamp]

Ouch! Sorry to see that. Based on my own experience, trying to tackle immovable objects, the back wheel(s) come up before any noticeable relief valve action, at least on my PT.

By corner bracing, do you mean gussets? If so, I think that it is a good idea. Have you considered upgrading the outer roll tube wall thickness as well?

Since you have had this apart before, how large is the spacing between the inner bar and the outer roll tube? And out of curiosity, how do you align the outer and inner tubes when welding it up so that the spacing is uniform? (Just curious; it seems not trivial to an amateur welder like me.)

All the best,

Peter

the machinist, measured the inside diameter of the pipe and then turned down the pin to the size of the pipe inside diameter, then welded up the pipe with the pin installed see pics for refrence

The whole job cost 180 dollars. Not bad.

 

[Tchamp]

Ouch! Sorry to see that. Based on my own experience, trying to tackle immovable objects, the back wheel(s) come up before any noticeable relief valve action, at least on my PT.

By corner bracing, do you mean gussets? If so, I think that it is a good idea. Have you considered upgrading the outer roll tube wall thickness as well?

Since you have had this apart before, how large is the spacing between the inner bar and the outer roll tube? And out of curiosity, how do you align the outer and inner tubes when welding it up so that the spacing is uniform? (Just curious; it seems not trivial to an amateur welder like me.)

All the best,

Peter

I did consider doing a larger diameter outer wall tube but decided that I don’t think it’s necessary. for one I would have to remove the tube from the middle of the two arms, and that would be more cost. I decided just to repair it and bolster the outer tube.
I had it fail over a year ago once before the same way, but when I had it rewelded, I don’t think they did a appropriate job on the outer tube,the welds were thin and broke leaving the pressure soley on the inner pin in the middle. The weld cracked about a month after I had reinstalled it and It took a year before the actual pin broke.
We just put the inner pin inside the outer tube and used it to align the two pieces then welded them back together. It is pretty close tolerances so it shoold be ( close enough for me) good enough.
I think the additional bolstering should distribute the pressures from the pivot allowing the pin to have a more evenly distribution of the pressures instead of the one small point where it failed both times before.

 

[Tchamp]

I did consider doing a larger diameter outer wall tube but decided that I don’t think it’s necessary. for one I would have to remove the tube from the middle of the two arms, and that would be more cost. I decided just to repair it and bolster the outer tube.
I had it fail over a year ago once before the same way, but when I had it rewelded, I don’t think they did a appropriate job on the outer tube,the welds were thin and broke leaving the pressure soley on the inner pin in the middle. The weld cracked about a month after I had reinstalled it and It took a year before the actual pin broke.
We just put the inner pin inside the outer tube and used it to align the two pieces then welded them back together. It is pretty close tolerances so it shoold be ( close enough for me) good enough.
I think the additional bolstering should distribute the pressures from the pivot allowing the pin to have a more evenly distribution of the pressures instead of the one small point where it failed both times before.

I am kinda rough on this little machine it gets used and abused.

The last pic shows where i used pulleys and rope to upright my machine using the ranger side by side.