I did it now! Need some repair pics tc40

dqdave1 · Jan 18, 2006

My 1999 TC 29 has the same problem with rust on the platforms. Stores in heated garage also. Bad metal prep whereever they were painted.

Guidster · Jan 18, 2006

( EDIT: OOPS! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I just re-read your post and you have a gear drive tractor. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif All my talk about the rabbit-turtle switch must have you scratchin' your head. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Sorry!

Your brake pedals are on the right-hand side and clutch is on the left. My pictures don't help you one bit. Aargh! I have to start reading better. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 Anyone with a gear tractor who can help? )

If you guys can stomach a picture of a "red" tractor in this forum, I can get a shot of the bottom side of my D40 tomorrow as I am sure that they are the same--no?

jinman · Jan 19, 2006

Guidster, I sure don't have a problem with your red paint, but I haven't heard from greenthumb since his first post on this issue. Your tractor should be a "dead ringer" for his in layout.

greenthumb · Jan 19, 2006

hey I am back. And the following is long /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Work has been busy but I finally was able to work last night a few hours on the tractor. (of course the temps dropped about a 25 degress from the day I broke the darn thing) First thanks to Jim for the pictures. I was going to take a few pics of where I have my problem but did not think my wife would have wanted me touching her digital camera after plying in hyd. oil. Well the problem seems to be the diver tor that you see just below the parking brake catch has been bent upwards. so what that has done.
1st the parking brake catch hits that little diver tor/valve I am not sure of the tech name. So I can not engage the parking brake.
2nd problem is it look like the piping that goes off to the loader control and 3 point/power etc. have been bent ever so slightly. I took off the tubes going to the loader control and the one that runs up to the block. I tried straighting but all can imagine how straighten hyd. tub in a home workshop goes. not much luck. I finally got everything back on which was not easy with the way parts line up now. I think I am going to have to break down and take it in to let a dealer deal with it. (which I know this is going to set me back quite a bit) I am hoping it will be a matter of new tubing and a bracket that was pretty bent. the valve/diver tor look ok I just know that tubing is not cheap. what fun owning a tractor is

djradz · Jan 19, 2006

( I finally got everything back on which was not easy with the way parts line up now. I think I am going to have to break down and take it in to let a dealer deal with it. (which I know this is going to set me back quite a bit) I am hoping it will be a matter of new tubing and a bracket that was pretty bent. the valve/diver tor look ok I just know that tubing is not cheap. what fun owning a tractor is. )

You've pulled these parts off and put them back on once already, why not just order the parts and do it yourself? Yes, it will be a second time but you'll save on the transportation of the tractor and the dealer's labor.

djradz · Jan 19, 2006

( Bad metal prep whereever they were painted. )

I have to agree. When the paint peels on mine, there's surface rust directly underneath. The narrow edge surfaces seem especially susceptable. I've seen this elsewhere on my 40D also, but only on the small edge surfaces of brackets and also the pedals. I wonder if it could be related to the "new" low VOC paints everyone uses these days? I think many of these are water and not HC based which may cause some rust right from the moment their applied. The apparent poor prep on the platform may just accelerate the process.

Really sad to see such things on a new machine, when some of the old tractors, 50-60 years old, still have good paint. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

greenthumb · Jan 19, 2006

doing it myself did cross my mind. Part of me says do that the other part would like someone else to take a look and make sure that I did not mess up more that I am not seeing. Just out of curiosity has anyone used miller and sons service department in fowlerville, MI that is probley the nearest dealer if I do take it in. I bought parts there never had service done there. or any other in mid Michigan that people have used or recommend.

DocHeb · Jan 19, 2006

I bought my TC40D-SS, Landpride Tiller and Landpride Grooming Mower from Bill at Miller & Sons. They've always been pleasant and have done my service work without any problems. I would recommend them.

greenthumb · Feb 5, 2006

here is the update.
beside the fact we have 6 inch of snow and my tractor is torn apart /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I decided to replace the lines going into the diverter my self. I was able to get all off and ended up needing five lines that looked to have some damage. any way ordered the parts rush (extra $20 to get the parts in the same week)order two weeks ago. received the lines as I looked at one of the lines I and the counter guy discovered the fitting that should have had a flare fitting was a nut type fitting. it would not match up on the diverter. the next day the dealer emailed a picture of the part to NH and they confirmed that was the wrong end. As NH began checking inventory they have discovered all of those parts have the wrong end, so much for inventory control, As of Friday no part next week will mark the 3 week aniversry of me not using my tractor. I feel as if my addiction is beginning to take control It gets harder and harder everyday knowing that after work or during a snow storm I will not be able to use my tractor. I need to find a self help group very fast or I might resort to desperate measures. I almost got the zero turn out of the barn and used that to clear snow.