Thanks. Ironically, I already printed the Little Machine Shop page. I'm pretty sure it's a #3, but it can't hurt to check. Gotta buy the drift, but the chuck is currently out so it won't be a problem. What are people doing for a coolant pump? I was thinking of using a 5 gallon bucket to store the coolant and then suspending the pump in the bucket.
I don't know how to machine... Is this too good to be true?
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BukitCase
Elite Member
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- Albany OR
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- Case 580B, Long 460, Allis-Chalmers 160
That could work, you don't need more than a few OUNCES of pressure - my mag drill came with a built-in GRAVITY feed coolant bottle - since it takes 27.65 inches of head for WATER to = 1 psi, mine has maybe a third of a pound of pressure when the bottle's FULL.
You would need an adjustable restrictor tho, a drip or two per second is fine. I use a 10:1 water based coolant (about $55 a gallon, still working on my FIRST gallon) and I don't recycle. If you recycle, you'll want some sort of filter to keep fines from plugging your coolant flow and trashing a $$$ cutter. Mine has a small ball valve on the outlet of the bottle's bottom outlet for adjusting flow. The slip ring reservoir can also be filled and shut off, lasts for 2-3 holes depending on material thickness and hole diameter.
Not sure if those Jancy adaptors do this, but normal mag drills use the "pilot" as an automatic check valve - back end has a "nail head" that seats against the back of the cutter, push on the (spring loaded) pilot and coolant flows.
If you haven't already, dnl that hougen document (they have others in their support area) - TONS of info there, worth reading more than once... Steve
Oh, and if/when you get tired of swapping adapters for "just a couple small holes", you can get these
Metabo 635 1/16-Inch-1/2-Inch Keyed Drill Chuck - Power Lathe Chucks - Amazon.com
G&J Hall Tools 18Y17 Powerbor Weldon Chuck Adaptor, 1/2"-2 UN Thread Fitting, 3/4" Arbor, For All Electromagnetic Drilling Systems: Drill Press Accessories: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Then just leave the annular adapter in and put those in it - My drill came with the "adapter kit" for a standard chuck, but you hafta remove a bunch of stuff to swap and mag drills don't have a lot of vertical travel, so twist drills are a pain - but on a DP, you can always lower the table...
You would need an adjustable restrictor tho, a drip or two per second is fine. I use a 10:1 water based coolant (about $55 a gallon, still working on my FIRST gallon) and I don't recycle. If you recycle, you'll want some sort of filter to keep fines from plugging your coolant flow and trashing a $$$ cutter. Mine has a small ball valve on the outlet of the bottle's bottom outlet for adjusting flow. The slip ring reservoir can also be filled and shut off, lasts for 2-3 holes depending on material thickness and hole diameter.
Not sure if those Jancy adaptors do this, but normal mag drills use the "pilot" as an automatic check valve - back end has a "nail head" that seats against the back of the cutter, push on the (spring loaded) pilot and coolant flows.
If you haven't already, dnl that hougen document (they have others in their support area) - TONS of info there, worth reading more than once... Steve
Oh, and if/when you get tired of swapping adapters for "just a couple small holes", you can get these
Metabo 635 1/16-Inch-1/2-Inch Keyed Drill Chuck - Power Lathe Chucks - Amazon.com
G&J Hall Tools 18Y17 Powerbor Weldon Chuck Adaptor, 1/2"-2 UN Thread Fitting, 3/4" Arbor, For All Electromagnetic Drilling Systems: Drill Press Accessories: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Then just leave the annular adapter in and put those in it - My drill came with the "adapter kit" for a standard chuck, but you hafta remove a bunch of stuff to swap and mag drills don't have a lot of vertical travel, so twist drills are a pain - but on a DP, you can always lower the table...
Well, I called on the cross table this morning and it was sold, the guy just didn't delete the ad.
I checked my shank and it is a #3 Morse.
I also looked under the table and there are no ribs for a bolt slot. I did see (4) 1/2" holes somebody drilled and tapped to bolt down a vice. Don't know why I never saw them before. I'd rather have a slot to slide stuff around on, but I guess a long cross table will have to suffice. I think I'll upgrade to the annular cutters but I'll have to buy it in stages to spread out the cost.
I checked my shank and it is a #3 Morse.
I also looked under the table and there are no ribs for a bolt slot. I did see (4) 1/2" holes somebody drilled and tapped to bolt down a vice. Don't know why I never saw them before. I'd rather have a slot to slide stuff around on, but I guess a long cross table will have to suffice. I think I'll upgrade to the annular cutters but I'll have to buy it in stages to spread out the cost.
BukitCase
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2012
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- 2,753
- Location
- Albany OR
- Tractor
- Case 580B, Long 460, Allis-Chalmers 160
As to the xy table, that CL ad wasn't more than $10 different from buying NEW from Grizzly; check the links I posted. No, it's NOT "milling machine accurate", but it's more accurate than the DP probably is. I'm happy with mine. Any machinist (I'm NOT one) will tell you to "always approach from the same direction" or similar - this means that there will always be backlash in anything mechanical, so you'll need to understand how to minimise it.
My use of that table works, partly because when I'm doing my "count the turns, drill again" thing I always hold tension against the SAME END of the table for each successive hole, always use the EXACT same # of turns (if it's HALF turns, the crank handle is straight UP for one hole, then straight DOWN for the next)...
My old (1980) Orbit (Taiwan) DP has had a HF cross-slide vise on it since it was 2 yrs old, and there's NO WAY I'd do without it - it's screws are 8 TPI, and even if I'm only doing one (center punched) hole in something it's easy to clamp it in the vise, then move my head 90 degrees and center the drill point from both axes. The bigger xy table and a separate vise is just a nice "dose of steroids" on that concept.
Spreading the cost out is a time-honored way to get where you wanna go WITHOUT your wallet "bleeding to death", I do it all the time - I bought my mag drill as a "fabricator kit" and got 5 piece set of Hougen cutters with it for about 60% of what the individual cutters cost, then bought "onesy-twosies" from a list I made up of sizes I wanted available - there's one or two still on the list, but I won't get them til the (projected) need turns into reality. Still, I've probably got close to $800 in cutters so far. Some are exact size, but probably 2/3 of 'em I bought are "clearance" sized - by that, if I need holes for 3/4" bolts I'll use a 20mm cutter (.7874") which gives me .037" clearance...
- as you can see, I also mark the EXACT decimal sizes on all the tubes for my convenience.
Not sure how big the forum allows for pdf's, if it works here's my current list of cutters (marked in red on pages 15-16) - The 1-1/2" cutter was expensive, that's the size ALL the pins on my backhoe are, except for the main pivot on the hoe bucket; it'll make fabbing some projected attachments MUCH easier... Steve
My use of that table works, partly because when I'm doing my "count the turns, drill again" thing I always hold tension against the SAME END of the table for each successive hole, always use the EXACT same # of turns (if it's HALF turns, the crank handle is straight UP for one hole, then straight DOWN for the next)...
My old (1980) Orbit (Taiwan) DP has had a HF cross-slide vise on it since it was 2 yrs old, and there's NO WAY I'd do without it - it's screws are 8 TPI, and even if I'm only doing one (center punched) hole in something it's easy to clamp it in the vise, then move my head 90 degrees and center the drill point from both axes. The bigger xy table and a separate vise is just a nice "dose of steroids" on that concept.
Spreading the cost out is a time-honored way to get where you wanna go WITHOUT your wallet "bleeding to death", I do it all the time - I bought my mag drill as a "fabricator kit" and got 5 piece set of Hougen cutters with it for about 60% of what the individual cutters cost, then bought "onesy-twosies" from a list I made up of sizes I wanted available - there's one or two still on the list, but I won't get them til the (projected) need turns into reality. Still, I've probably got close to $800 in cutters so far. Some are exact size, but probably 2/3 of 'em I bought are "clearance" sized - by that, if I need holes for 3/4" bolts I'll use a 20mm cutter (.7874") which gives me .037" clearance...
- as you can see, I also mark the EXACT decimal sizes on all the tubes for my convenience.Not sure how big the forum allows for pdf's, if it works here's my current list of cutters (marked in red on pages 15-16) - The 1-1/2" cutter was expensive, that's the size ALL the pins on my backhoe are, except for the main pivot on the hoe bucket; it'll make fabbing some projected attachments MUCH easier... Steve