I finally started my pond

[bindian]

Brandi, you just need a 60 foot tower. Unfortunately, windmills usually run about double that of your std electric units.

Brian,
I have seen windmills second hand for $800-1000. But I would need a taller tower.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

Hey y'all,
If you like Birds of Prey, I stated a new thread here..... http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/south/148380-red-hawk-down.html
hugs, Brandi

 

[dynasim]

Northern Industrial has a line of solar powered pumps that are reliable enough to use for watering cattle in western kansas from wells >100 ft deep. Particularly when steady water flow is not necessary, they are effective. However, in the long run, it is cheaper to just use line electricity to do the job. The electricity saved won't pay for the power panel.

The big advantage is that you do not have to pay for the electrical infrastructure cost.

Chris

 

[bindian]

I have finally decided to install an end cap (plug) on the overflow pipe. I have it rough cut out and will now cut it to be level. I will tar the insides after securing the end cap and coupling to the pipe with ty raps (zip ties). This will increase water level about 10 inches and still have about 10-12 inches from the top of the dam.
hugs, Brandi

 

[jinman]

Brandi, your water looks pretty clear. How are your fish doing?

That endcap looks pretty thick. Do you think you could drill some small holes around the perimeter into the endcap and then put some #6 stainless screws into it to secure it into place? I'm not sure how you plan to do your zipties, but keeping that endcap in place and water-tight is going to be the biggest challenge. When water rises around the pipe before it overflows, you are going to have a very powerful lift of that whole end section. It's like a two-place kayak. You might have to put an anchor on the end of the pipe to keep if from flexing upward. It probably won't flex too far, but over time, the up/down flexing with water level will surely be an issue. How big an issue, I'm not sure, but it certainly will tend to float upwards.

 

[bindian]

Brandi, your water looks pretty clear. How are your fish doing?

That endcap looks pretty thick. Do you think you could drill some small holes around the perimeter into the endcap and then put some #6 stainless screws into it to secure it into place? I'm not sure how you plan to do your zipties, but keeping that endcap in place and water-tight is going to be the biggest challenge. When water rises around the pipe before it overflows, you are going to have a very powerful lift of that whole end section. It's like a two-place kayak. You might have to put an anchor on the end of the pipe to keep if from flexing upward. It probably won't flex too far, but over time, the up/down flexing with water level will surely be an issue. How big an issue, I'm not sure, but it certainly will tend to float upwards.

Jim,
Look close and you will see a coupling around the end cap and pipe. It has flatter corrigation then the pipe and end cap. That and the ty raps should be enough to hold it in position. I have been against putting any type of screws in it, but I can if needed as it is a double wall pipe. The flat end of the cap is about 5/16th inch thick. The rest is thin plastic. But maybe I can drive some steel stakes in the dam down good and secure them to the flat thickness of the end cap. Thanks for the idea. I haven't thought about the force of water trying to push the whole thing up. I have throught about cementing around the end of the pipe.
The water is pretty clear, just a shade of all the clay. I haven't added fish yet, will get 1000 fathead minnows on the 19th, followed in 2 months with 4-6 blue catfish fingerlings. I was told by the county natural resource guy to do this to give the fatheads a head start. Also I will sink a fork lift pallet in swallow water for fathead reproduction.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

The overflow pipe end cap is done. I now need to install wire over it. I spliced the end cap (after cutting to approx. water level) to the pipe with 4 short lengths of small, electric, stamped, steel fence posts. Not T posts. I bolted it all together with cad plated 1/4 inch bolts. I then sealed with fibered roof sealant, inside and outside, then made a concrete form and added 5 sacks of concrete. The concrete was my remedy to Jim mentioning the water will lift on the pipe before overflow. Regretfully, it looks like I will have to add Bentonite to keep the pond full. The only time it was full was last April when we got over 10 inches of rain within an 8 day period.
hugs, Brandi

 

[EddieWalker]

Is the water level steadily dropping? Most ponds will lose water for quite awhile when they first fill up with water. I takes some time for the soil to get to that point where it holds water. While Betonite will sometimes seal a pond, you have to really mix it in with the soil after draining the pond. How much to use and how far up the banks, plus how well to mix it with the soil is all a big part of getting it to work.

Good Luck,
Eddie

 

[jinman]

Good job with the concrete, Brandi. That looks like a really professional job. Maybe this week, you'll get to see it tested. According to the NWS, you have an 80% chance of rain today and 20%-30% the rest of the week.

BTW: Any woman who can build her own forms and mix 5 bags of concrete is okay in my book. There aren't many like you.

 

[dave1949]

Is the water level steadily dropping? Most ponds will lose water for quite awhile when they first fill up with water. I takes some time for the soil to get to that point where it holds water. While Betonite will sometimes seal a pond, you have to really mix it in with the soil after draining the pond. How much to use and how far up the banks, plus how well to mix it with the soil is all a big part of getting it to work.

Good Luck,
Eddie

Thanks for that info Eddie. I have a rain catchment pond dug last November. It oozes water out along the bottom. I am hoping it seals itself a bit like you describe, over time. Just have to wait and see.

Dave.