I hope theres a way to fix this.....

[EddieWalker]

Can someone please explain the difference? In Ohio it is recommended that the posts be set in concrete. In Texas the posts rot out if set in concrete.

When I do a fence, it really depends on the soil conditions where I'm working. If it's sandy, or loose soil, then I have to use concrete. If it's good, red clay, then I'll tamp them in.

Here is a picture of a residential post that I replaced. It was sandy soil, and the previous fence builder just dumped the concrete in the hole, and let them set. They lasted five years like this.

The thing that I do differently when I use concrete is I build up the concrete so it's above grad and angles up the sides of the posts. After it's dried, the concrete forms a ramp of sorts to shed the water away from the post.

In my experience, pressure treated posts will almost never rot in the ground, but always rot at grade. The water sits there, keeping the post wet, and after awhile, cylce of being wet and then dry again will break down the wood.

Eddie

 

[rambler]

The problem with using typical brace posts is the shallow angle of the the fence.

Brace posts as decsribed work well on 90 degree corners.

At the shallow angle of the corner shown, it's real hard to prevent a little wiggle, which will show up as loose wires. The shallow angle just doesn't brace well.

In my climate, my soil, concrete on a post means you have no post in a few years - instant rot. Different situation in different areas.



--->Paul

 

[California]

FWIW - I'm talking armchair theory, not experience - it seems to me the corner would be stable if each straight line ends with adequate, stable, anchoring just *before* the corner post, then a little wire is added to make a non-stressed cattle barrier between each anchor assembly and the corner post.

 

[Ford850]

FWIW - I'm talking armchair theory, not experience - it seems to me the corner would be stable if each straight line ends with adequate, stable, anchoring just *before* the corner post, then a little wire is added to make a non-stressed cattle barrier between each anchor assembly and the corner post.

That's what Twarr1 was describing. I've never tried that, but it sure looks like it would be the best solution since there would be no fence going around a corner, but rather 2 straight sections that intersect, making a corner.
l_ instead of L

 

[rambler]

That's what Twarr1 was describing. I've never tried that, but it sure looks like it would be the best solution since there would be no fence going around a corner, but rather 2 straight sections that intersect, making a corner.
l_ instead of L

I agree also, with that shallow of a corner angle, it is _very_ difficult to brace it well enough.

A curved fence like this, high-tensile might not have been the best choice, something with less pressure & more posts might have worked better.

High tensile works best in straight lines, or good 90 degree angles. Making 2 (or 3, if that very short jog on the left is important) sections of independent straight fence is the best way to go, if you stick with high-tensile.

--->Paul

 

[archerm3]

FWIW - I'm talking armchair theory, not experience - it seems to me the corner would be stable if each straight line ends with adequate, stable, anchoring just *before* the corner post, then a little wire is added to make a non-stressed cattle barrier between each anchor assembly and the corner post.

Or a handy place to put a gate.

 

[jjmarotz]

Here's a couple pics of how I braced my 90* and 45* corners. No concrete used, just tamped in. Line posts are 2' in ground and corner posts are in 3' deep. This setup has been in for a touch over 2 yrs and have very minimal "lean" on the posts. High tensil barbless wire all around and is pinned tight at each corner post. So essentially each line is independent and ends at the corner posts. Even used the same technique where the wire meets the rail and post corrals, and gate locations. Hope this helps.

 

[warhammer]

I appreciate all the replies. I am still pondering what to do on this.
Breaking the shallow corners into two straight sections of fence seems like a good solution at the cost of disassembling the fence section, which I have to do no matter what, and then adding two more posts. Since I am planning on electrifying the fence I guess that means there will be some extra splices to move the current from one section to another.

Warhammer

That's what Twarr1 was describing. I've never tried that, but it sure looks like it would be the best solution since there would be no fence going around a corner, but rather 2 straight sections that intersect, making a corner.
l_ instead of L

 

[tatra805]

Good advise given already

my 2 cents on "renovating" a fenceline

What i did with good results in your situation is

- Drill or digg a hole twice the diameter of your posts at a distance from the original post about 3 times the lenght of the post.

- Attach your wiring to the post in such a way that the wires will not slip when you pull at the post. (Z routing between U nails works great)

- tension the new post with a diagonal wire from top of new post to bottom of old post and a second one running a couple of inches above ground level. (i put a double wire (loop)and wind it up using a piece of rod in the middle)

- fill the hole (can use concrete)

- attach a last tension wire from top of old post to bottom of new post and tension it lightly (this one avoids the old post being lifted out.

- detach fence wires from original post en retention them to take out any slack between old and new post.

repeat for other side of corner.


Succes rate is highly dependent on distance between old and new posts. If posts are too close the top tension line will pull the original post upwards and destroy your efforts.


Now, on the other hand, i never use tension wire for pasture fencing. Too long distances (braced posts necessary every 30 feet) too much tension and i like a bit of give in my fences with any type of animals on it or outside of it. In panic or rage an electrified tension wire will cut before it stings. Or break and open up the lines while grounding the electrics.

I have 1 stallion who knows this and broke through different places their tension wire fencing, accepting the cuts and the single shock. (tough boy it is)
At home he doesnt go anywhere near my "slack" rope fencing as he knows it will hit him multiple times before he even can put 1 foot outside.