I killed my Ford 8N ... now it won't start

DaveOmak · Oct 18, 2009

Soot, I recently replaced the distributor cap on my '53 NAA.
On the 8N, is there an O-ring seal on the dist? There is on the NAA.
The replacement cap would not fit on the dist. properly. I found the original cap had a beveled edge on the bottom of the cap to aid the cap sliding over the o-ring. I had to use a dremel and a sanding drum to bevel the edge on the new cap. A little silicone grease on the o-ring and the cap and the cap then seated properly. Of course I broke a rotor when the cap wasn't seated properly but it was a lesson learned.
If you removed the dist. from the engine, you might check to see if it's firing near top dead center on a commpression stroke. Good luck Dave

Soot · Oct 19, 2009

Thanks everyone for your info and advice. Short update.

I have ignition

Actually had it running briefly an a small amount of gas and starter fluid. (Gas tank is off of it for easier access)

I ended up taking everything apart from coil to plugs and all the distributor bits then testing / reinstalling. Never found the exact problem spot, but when reassembled, it was all good

Figures.

Still need to verify regulator / generator is working but first need to get tank back on and try for a real start.

I'll start doing reading on how to test regulator and gen as I know there are many posts on that subject.

Thanks again all for the help and information . I have learned alot

Soundguy · Oct 19, 2009

makes sure you turn in the right direction.. pulling plugs helps!

soundguy

Redneck in training · Oct 20, 2009

Soot said:
Thanks everyone for your info and advice. Short update.

I have ignition Actually had it running briefly an a small amount of gas and starter fluid. (Gas tank is off of it for easier access)

I ended up taking everything apart from coil to plugs and all the distributor bits then testing / reinstalling. Never found the exact problem spot, but when reassembled, it was all good Figures.

Still need to verify regulator / generator is working but first need to get tank back on and try for a real start.

I'll start doing reading on how to test regulator and gen as I know there are many posts on that subject.

Thanks again all for the help and information . I have learned alot

To quickly check the regulator wait for dark, start the engine and run it at idle while shining lights on some vertical flat surface. Then increase rpm. If the lights go brigter the regulator is most likley working.
6V battery should have 7.2 V while charging, 6.7 V to keep it charged without boiling the acid.

Soundguy · Oct 20, 2009

ammeter will tell you all that without waiting for it to get dark..

soundguy

Soot · Nov 1, 2009

Ok I'm back and still dead or at least not running yet...

I checked Genny and she works (motors), reinstalled gas tank and everything except airfilter and pipe going to carb intake.

Opened up gas line and saw that I was getting gas through to carb by pulling drain plug. All ok.

Tried to start supplementing with starting fluid - got ignition and some backfires which was not a surprise since it has been 3 years since she was last running. Keeping the starter cranking, this continued for a while then she started coughing fuel (not just a light spray but lots of gas) out of the intake to the carb. A couple of backfires later and I had a small fire going. Thankfully I had a fire extinguisher right at hand and no damage was done.

So what would cause the engine to blow gas backward through the carb? A carb problem, a stuck valve or a timing issue, other? When I stop cranking the gas stops coming out of the carb if that means anything. I am now really in way over my head now so any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks Soot

zman007007 · Nov 1, 2009

IMHO I would use carb. cleaner and not starting fluid that stuff will ruin engines. zman

DaveOmak · Nov 2, 2009

Soot, Well, you're learning the ins and outs of it all. I believe I had a similar problem with the carb and fuel on my NAA. I removed the card and found some rust in the float needle which either held the needle open or closed. Fuel will still run out of the float bowl and maybe flood the carb. My fuel tank had rust in it.
There might be a sediment bowl on the bottom of the fuel tank. Check it and clean it. Also check for water. Condensation can occur fairly easily and water sits in the bottom of the tank. Doesn't burn too well though. Remove the carb and check for dirt etc. Float sounds like it's OK but make sure it is "empty". No holes etc.
When all is clean to your inspection, I would install an inline fuel filter. Along with the sediment bowl, you'll have 2 systems to stop dirt and water.
Now for the ??????. I don't think a starter can run backwards. How is it, you can get a sizeable amount of spray out of the carb? Had someone worked on engine and got the cam out of time? That's a flat head I think. Did mice make a nest in the engine and do you have valves sticking? I've seen all of this in one place or another. Not necessarily on tractors though.
Too much thinking for 7am for me. More coffee. I'll sit back and see what others come up with. Dave
When encountering a problem, the solution is in the last place you look!

Soundguy · Nov 2, 2009

timing , valve timing, and or a stuck valve can cause compression thru the intake.

soundguy

tommu56 · Nov 2, 2009

My vote is for stuck intake valve it's open when you get spark and ignition in cyl and it carry's back through manifold to carb.

Like others said carb cleaner isn't as explosive as starting fluid but it still gets the job doine.

Do you have any way to tow it safely Id leave fuel off ignition off and drag it around the yard in 2 or 3 gear to loosen things up.

Then try carb cleaner to see if it will start and run on it and not backfire when you get that far then rebuild the carb an get it running on fuel .

tom