I need a lesson on clearences

[RoyJackson]

Good responses all!!!

I'd suggest the original bushing were bronze (not Oilite) to prevent the steel pins from seizing during extended period of inactivity. Also, the bronze, being softer then the steel pin, would take the wear during use.

Since ktm010 bought the bushings from McMaster-Carr...well, even that could be part of the problem. These are probably purchased from China and not the greatest quality in the world.

 

[ktm010]

Thanks for all the info, I think I might try to ream out the bushings before ordering the right ones, still up in the air on the frame member looks to be some work to cut the tube section out and replace, but now would be the perfect time.

 

[sandman2234]

Hmmm, is this where an adjustable reamer would come in handy?
David from jax

 

[John White]

One of the first steps I take when replaceing any bushing is after I get the old one out, I make sure the bore is thourghly free of rust. Many times I will take a wheel cylinder hone and just polish it up slightly with a little kerosene or penntrating oil. Then coat the bore and bushing with anti-seize compond or at least a little grease, then when installing the bushing, if possiblel, I use a large c-clamp, or some way to press in , rather than knocking it in with a hammer. If using a hammer, make sure you are using a back up plate or bushing driver and use a larger size hammer, so you dont have to keep tapping on it and making it mushroom. If a little tight, if you dont have a reamer, them again use the brake cyl hone, and clean thourghly after done.