I need a new coupler for my trailer - whick one is best?

[RoMad]

Here is a site I have bought quite a few products from. Might be a good place for you to look. I prefer the type that you flip the handle down for it to latch. I have had a few travel trailers and that is the type they had. If I remember correctly they were Atwood brand. Trailer hitch, hitches and bike rack (800)298-8924

I think as long as they are properly rated for your trailer any of them will work. If you use an exact replacement you know for sure that it will fit the same on the tongue.

 

[westbrooklawn]

I have 6 trailers of various sizes, capacities, and weights. The smaller ones have 2" couplers, and the larger have 2 5/16" couplers. By far, the coupler I like best is on my 6 1/2 x 10 ft. dual axle dump trailer. While most will argue that it is way overkill, it is the type I would put on my 16' landscape trailer if I ever had to replace the existing coupler. It would require some modification to the trailer for the necessary flat bolt on attachment, but this coupler is by far the easiest I have ever used.

Wallace Forge Flat Mount Trailer Coupler, 25K Wallace Forge Trailer Coupler FC25

 

[whistlepig]

I have 6 trailers of various sizes, capacities, and weights. The smaller ones have 2" couplers, and the larger have 2 5/16" couplers. By far, the coupler I like best is on my 6 1/2 x 10 ft. dual axle dump trailer. While most will argue that it is way overkill, it is the type I would put on my 16' landscape trailer if I ever had to replace the existing coupler. It would require some modification to the trailer for the necessary flat bolt on attachment, but this coupler is by far the easiest I have ever used.

Wallace Forge Flat Mount Trailer Coupler, 25K Wallace Forge Trailer Coupler FC25

Now that's one heck of a heavy duty coupler.

 

[Reg]

I was rear ended when pulling my trailer and now I have to replace the damaged coupler. The trailer is a 16ft 75 inch landscape type trailer with two 3500 lb axle's, one with brakes. The heaviest thing I haul occasionally is my MF1250 tractor with an FEL.

I have a coupler in my stash, but it is too lightweight, so I have to buy a new one. I have looked a little and have seen different type closers that close over the ball on the tow vehicle. Some come down over the ball and some squeeze around the ball. Then there is the ring type coupler. The previous coupler was a 5000 lb A frame that closed over the 2" ball.

If I am going to change the type of coupler, now is the time to do it.

Which type should I get?

Thanks,

Clem

I would avoid the stamped steel ones.
If/when you tap them with the truck they "go oval" and while you may not notice a slight out of round'ness you will almost certainly notice that they become very hard to disconnect.

Bull Dog makes very substantial forged couplers that have a locking sleeve that slides back, then the locking lever springs out to the side, you lower it over the ball, squeeze the lever in and the sleeve springs forwards.
Hard to imagine, and not at all easy to describe (-:
No pins to drop, or forget and leave out, nothing to fiddle with.

 

[weldingisfun]

Bulldog gets my vote.

 

[Workstead]

Thanks for your input. I now know more about couplers than I thought possible. I also have some great suggestions.

I am now considering going with another Atwood 5000# stamped coupler (that held up well during the accident) and a Bulldog coupler. I doubt that there is anyone in my town of 55,000 that has either one but I hope to find out tomorrow.

The Atwood would cost about $40 and the Bulldog about $90, using internet pricing. Pricing isn't a consideration.

Now I will go to the welding forum for suggestions on welding whatever I end up getting.

Clem

 

[greasemonkeyok]

Bull Dog, as others have already noted, is the coupler of choice as far as safety is concerned. Simple, strong, and very reliable.

 

[Reg]

Thanks for your input. I now know more about couplers than I thought possible. I also have some great suggestions.

I am now considering going with another Atwood 5000# stamped coupler (that held up well during the accident) and a Bulldog coupler. I doubt that there is anyone in my town of 55,000 that has either one but I hope to find out tomorrow.

The Atwood would cost about $40 and the Bulldog about $90, using internet pricing. Pricing isn't a consideration.

Now I will go to the welding forum for suggestions on welding whatever I end up getting.

Clem

YIKES !!!
PLEASE DO NOT make this a learn to weld project ?

One more thing about the Bull Dog.
Its shape is about the same as a lemon, but don't take that as a negative.
If/when you back into it that shape will help it deflect to one side or the other, unlike the stamped couplers than just go kinda egg shaped.

Yeah, for "what is riding on it" the 2.x times price over a stamped imported one is probably well worth it.

 

[Workstead]

YIKES !!!
PLEASE DO NOT make this a learn to weld project ?

Reg.

Thanks for the learn to weld warning.

Much like the information I was looking for on the coupler, the best coupler, that's what I'm looking for on welding.

The Bulldog is a weldable cast unit.There are probably a number of rods that will work on this and there is probably one that is better than the others. That's the type of information I'll be looking for.

Also, your comment, and others, about the shape of the front of the coupler is helpful. I have backed into the previous coupler a few times and I'm sure that is why I usually had to "persuade" the coupler to drop onto the ball. The Bulldog will help to eliminate this.

Clem

 

[Skyco]

Personally I would not weld a coupler on if it is boltable. Nothing wrong with bolts and it makes it easily replaceable if needed.

Which Bulldog you looking at that requires or even suggests welding on the cast part? Don't think such exists.