I NEED SERVICE IN MARYLAND

[SnowRidge]

<font color="blue">( Always remove the new gasket from the filter, and coat it on all sides with motor oil )

I've never removed the gasket from a new oil filter to coat both sides, and never before heard of anyone doing that, but I do always coat the face of the gasket (the exposed side which will be the one going against the engine) with fresh motor oil. </font>

Just about every spin on filter that I have ever come across, if it came with instructions at all, said just that (coat the block side of the gasket with fresh oil).

 

[tracdoc]

A number of fellow racers swear by using a little dab of "Never Seez" or its equivalent in addition to the motor oil on the block side of the gasket. They coat gasket with motor oil first like usual, and then put a little Never Seez on fingertip and go 'round the gasket again. I have tried it for the last couple of changes, and I have adopted the technique. Found no problems with leaks, and no problems with filter removal at changing time

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

<font color="red"> Found no problems with leaks, and no problems with filter removal at changing time </font>

The only problem is explaining the silver-tip finger to people for a couple of weeks. That stuff is non-removable. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[tracdoc]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The only problem is explaining the silver-tip finger to people for a couple of weeks. That stuff is non-removable. )</font>

Gloves!

I had a very difficult time adjusting to wearing gloves while working on cars, MC's, etc., after many years of doing the work sans gloves, and despite wearing them professionally for many years. I finally came upon some decent textured nitrile gloves. The texture makes a whale of a difference. No more slippy slimey. I am currently using the 8 mil textured nitrile from Gempler's

 

[FOURTEEN]

<font color="blue"> (I've never removed the gasket from a new oil filter to coat both sides, and never before heard of anyone doing that, but I do always coat the face of the gasket (the exposed side which will be the one going against the engine) with fresh motor oil.) </font>


<font color="red"> The seal between the filter and the gasket is just as important as the seal between the gasket and the filter base!! </font>



<font color="blue"> (Removeing the new gasket should be interesting.) </font>

<font color="red"> Easily done with just finger nails!! </font>



<font color="blue"> (Exspecially when it becomes the old gasket stuck to the motor block and not noticed!) </font>

<font color="red"> That's the point!! If the gasket is prelubed, it comes off with the filter, and does not stick to the filter base!! </font>

 

[stray]

Putting oil on one side of the oil filter gasket should be sufficient. This is more for letting the gasket slide than to seal. If it was just to seal then oil would not be necessary. It would seal anyway but would be very hard to get off. I don’t mind it sticking to the oil filter. Now let me have it 14. LOL

 

[SCOTCHERS]

Well last weekend was it. I took my plung and had success. I changed the hydrualic filter and bleed all the air out as both Stray and Moss suggested per the links sent. I really appreciated that and it was supper easy. I also greased her up , cleaned her all off and actually flipped the tires around so I now have a broader wheel base. AMAZING. I'll never go back. I have a 25 degree hill and used to be very timid. Now it's like nothing but stability, though respected. I still do have a grinding sound when I spin the wheel right and left as I'm driving. I've hit all the greese zerks except it seems the hidden one that I have a separate grease zerk for, when screwed in, doesnt' seem to accept grease. I have however, pumped 3-4 handles in and when I"ve tapped on the actual grease zerk fittting, grease has come back out. What do you think this grinding could be. Seems to come every time I turn the wheel left or right. Like grinding. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. John

 

[FOURTEEN]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( actually flipped the tires around so I now have a broader wheel base. AMAZING. I'll never go back. I have a 25 degree hill and used to be very timid. Now it's like nothing but stability, though respected. John )</font>


<font color="red"> Thanks!! I have been touting the virtues of Reversed Wheels on the PT-425 for over a year now!! Glad to hear that someone listened!! </font>

PS: With Reversed Wheels the PT-425 has a 'wider track'. 'Wheelbase' is front to rear.

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[BobRip]

Have you tried tightening the big nut on the lower pivot point under the middle of the PT422. This is supposed to be tightened every 8 hours. I don't think it needs it that often. It takes a 1 and 13/16 inch open end wrench. This is probably not the noise, but if you are going to do maintenance this is part of it.

Bob Rip

 

[SCOTCHERS]

I didn't know that, I will investigate that and see what happens. Hope it's an easy solution. Thanks for the suggestion.