I want to buy a new 425 this year but ...

[Gravy]

I do did not ask the wattage. I think the advantage of this is that being in the engine compartment more of the heat will reach things that need it. Both hydraulic and engine need heat, and they will get some. A magnetic heater on the outside will not send any heat to the engine.

In my experience, the EH72 isn't happy trying to start while dragging a hydraulic pump with frigid oil. For at least the last 5 or 6 years, I have used one magnetic block heater on the top of tram pump and another on the hydraulic reservoir inside the tub. I also installed a bigger battery and heavier battery cables. That has made the difference between starting under protest and refusing to start at all when the temperature is much below 40*F. If it's well below freezing, I've often draped a tarp over the engine cover to hold in some heat.

The new big block has started at 28*F once with no added heat. I'll see if it repeats the performance when winter really sets in.

 

[BobRip]

I do did not ask the wattage. I think the advantage of this is that being in the engine compartment more of the heat will reach things that need it. Both hydraulic and engine need heat, and they will get some. A magnetic heater on the outside will not send any heat to the engine.

It's not a lot of difference though.

 

[BobRip]

In my experience, the EH72 isn't happy trying to start while dragging a hydraulic pump with frigid oil. For at least the last 5 or 6 years, I have used one magnetic block heater on the top of tram pump and another on the hydraulic reservoir inside the tub. I also installed a bigger battery and heavier battery cables. That has made the difference between starting under protest and refusing to start at all when the temperature is much below 40*F. If it's well below freezing, I've often draped a tarp over the engine cover to hold in some heat.

The new big block has started at 28*F once with no added heat. I'll see if it repeats the performance when winter really sets in.

Ooh, I looked at your post again. Your way is fine. You just have to move the heater out after the start.

 

[MossRoad]

If I was going to get a heater, I'd probably get one or two of these heating pads and stick them on the side of the hydraulic tank inside the engine compartment where they wouldn't get torn up:
https://www.wolverineheater.com/Engine-Oil-Heaters-for-Cars-s/1814.htm

Then I'd go down to my local u-haul store and pick up one or two of these mover's quilts and drape them over the hydraulic tank and engine compartment:

Object moved

And I'd get a heavy duty 20Amp X-10 AC outlet in my garage like this:
X10 Heavy Duty Appliance Receptacle, 20A, 240VAC

So I could turn it off and on from inside the house with a cheap x10 controller like this:
X10 Plug-In Desktop Mini Controller

 

[ponytug]

Toys, toys, toys...

Sounds like a great setup. Those seem to be wonderful heaters. Thanks for the link.

All the best,

Peter

If I was going to get a heater, I'd probably get one or two of these heating pads and stick them on the side of the hydraulic tank inside the engine compartment where they wouldn't get torn up:
https://www.wolverineheater.com/Engine-Oil-Heaters-for-Cars-s/1814.htm

Then I'd go down to my local u-haul store and pick up one or two of these mover's quilts and drape them over the hydraulic tank and engine compartment:

Object moved

And I'd get a heavy duty 20Amp X-10 AC outlet in my garage like this:
X10 Heavy Duty Appliance Receptacle, 20A, 240VAC

So I could turn it off and on from inside the house with a cheap x10 controller like this:
X10 Plug-In Desktop Mini Controller

 

[BobRip]

If I was going to get a heater, I'd probably get one or two of these heating pads and stick them on the side of the hydraulic tank inside the engine compartment where they wouldn't get torn up:
https://www.wolverineheater.com/Engine-Oil-Heaters-for-Cars-s/1814.htm

Then I'd go down to my local u-haul store and pick up one or two of these mover's quilts and drape them over the hydraulic tank and engine compartment:

Object moved

And I'd get a heavy duty 20Amp X-10 AC outlet in my garage like this:
X10 Heavy Duty Appliance Receptacle, 20A, 240VAC

So I could turn it off and on from inside the house with a cheap x10 controller like this:
X10 Plug-In Desktop Mini Controller

That heater looking lot like the one PT used.

 

[ernemats]

Which heater?

 

[BobRip]

Which heater?

. The one I saw on a PT425 at the Tazewell factory showroom.

 

[smilindave]

Moss, your setup seems viable except for the last option. It is only rated for 120 volts

 

[MossRoad]

The controller only has to be 120 volts. It sends a signal over the power lines to the devices you want to control.

They make a 20A 110V outlet as well, just don't offer them on that website. I've had one running my pool pump for years.