I was shim less !

[Volfandt]

GTG JimWalch, I'd like to see some pics too.
I can always use MO-Pwr

FYI, just did the 300 hr service on my BX23 and I noticed two very distinct changes re. the tractors hydraulics.
The whine (although it wasn't that loud) has just about completely disappeared and at mid rpm the FEL could raise the front wheels off the ground easily. Before I'd have to be between 3/4 and full rpm.
All I use is SUDT.

jinman the BX tractors have a single external hydraulic pump that powers all the implement controls, i.e. PS, 3PH, FEL, BH and any remotes.
The HST's internal pump is for HST operation only.

 

[Barryh]

GTG JimWalch, I'd like to see some pics too.
I can always use MO-Pwr

FYI, just did the 300 hr service on my BX23 and I noticed two very distinct changes re. the tractors hydraulics.
The whine (although it wasn't that loud) has just about completely disappeared and at mid rpm the FEL could raise the front wheels off the ground easily. Before I'd have to be between 3/4 and full rpm.
All I use is SUDT.

jinman the BX tractors have a single external hydraulic pump that powers all the implement controls, i.e. PS, 3PH, FEL, BH and any remotes.
The HST's internal pump is for HST operation only.

I bought a BX 1500 from a dealer 600 miles away with low hours around 400. Love the thing so far. Maybe a little off topic.

I just changed out all of the fluid in the hydraulic system after, I replaced four hydraulic hoses that were up under the console. The power steering hose was leaking pretty badly. I also noticed the whine is almost non existent now.

I changed the engine oil with Mobil one synthetic and lubed up all of the linkage. I'm not sure who owned the tractor before. Obviously did not take very good mechanical care of it.

Now she runs smooth and quiet except I do hear a slight tic in the engine. It's not loud but noticeable. This is my first diesel so maybe you guys can tell me If this is normal?

Now to knock out the loader pins and inspect. The grease zerks were not taking any grease.

 

[drtydeed]

Folks,

I added a 0.2mm shim to mine last week. According to the manuals, that is supposed to boost the pressures approx 80 psi. Each 0.1mm shim equates to a 39 psi increase. I did not check my pressures before or after the procedure.

After adding the shim, I promptly went to my dirt pile, and scooped a "heaping helping" with embedded concrete. I noticed a difference.

The really interesting thing that I've found is that according to the repair manual, you are supposed to insert a 0.4mm shim prior to checking pressures. It would appear to me that may be part of the "safety margin" built into these machines. Then, the same shim is to be removed.

Anyway, I don't suggest that everyone go out and try this (and risk personal injury, or equipment damage). Good luck.

 

[drtydeed]

For anyone interested in the shim part no's.

31351-3795-0 = 0.4 mm
31351-3796-0 = 0.2 mm
31351-3797-0 = 0.1 mm

 

[drtydeed]

here's the location. Sorry I did not take pics when I did it. I don't normally keep a camera in my tool box.

 

[JimWalch]

I didn't get any pics with the left wheel off but drtydeed has the diagram where the shims go.
As for how the gauge is hooked up see the attachments. Since I don't have the hoe on I used that connection with an inline valve to get the load on the pump. Worked great. The valve is rated at 2000psi

 

[Jimbrown]

Don't know about the shims but it is nices to see someone else with one that has dirt and rust on it like it has been used as opposed to looking like it got waxed every saterday.

 

[AndyinIowa]

After 300+ hours on my BX23 it was time to do some more maintenance and a specifications check. It just didn't seem to have as much power as when new. So my nephew made up a test gage to check the pressure. (See attached picture) Well guess what? Only had 1550 Lbs. out of the 1849 lbs. the book says. QUOTE]




What engine rpm, and oil temp did you have while measuring this pressure? The relief valve in the system has a rise rate while is dependant on oil viscosity and relief flow. Does the manual specify these conditions for setting the relief?

I can't tell the full scale range of the analog gauge in the photo, but assume its a 2500psi gauge. Even if its been in for annual calibration, figure it can be off by about 2%. Add to that the error in human reading of analog gauges.

Bottom line is that the system may have been within shipping specifications.

A lot of operators complain after using a vehicle for a while that it doesn't perform as well. My personal experience when performing focus groups in the field is that as an operator gains experience with a vehicle, they push it harder and feel it doesn't perform as well as when they first used the vehicle. This is depsite showing them that the vehicle is still performing the same as when they started operating it.

I've been through many times. Usually cylinders are broken, and when the system pressure is tested under controlled conditions, it is WAY too high.


Just some food for thought. Bumping pressures over factory spec's may give you a short term gain, but for a long term loss. In the case of the BX tractors, increasing system pressure once the tractor is broken in will cause the gear pump to experience additional 'cut-in' which literally shaves more aluminum off the pressure faces, which then is introduced to your hydraulic system. Normally this contamination is removed at the pump test stand, but now you are shaving aluminum while installed on your own tractor.

IowaAndy

 

[JimWalch]

Don't know about the shims but it is nices to see someone else with one that has dirt and rust on it like it has been used as opposed to looking like it got waxed every saterday.

I bought my tractor to use- not to have another vehicle to wash and wax. Same goes for my trucks. All have some scratches and dings. Just look in the mirror after 50 - 60 years none of us that use our hands for work are perfect.

 

[kennyd]

Just a note for those who want to build a gauge setup:

You do not need the valve and "T", all you need is the gauge, a short piece of hose and a QD that fits one of your loader ports. You just plug in the gauge and operate the joystick to energize the port the gauge is plugged into. DO NOT HOLD THE JOYSTICK FOR A LONG TIME THOUGH as you are deadheading the hydraulic pump.

Attached is a picture of mine...