Idea for rear work light...

beenthere · Jan 2, 2002

Bob
Attached is a pic of the rear of my JD4300, showing the wiring harness where the connector is for the work light. Sorry I said it was to the right of center, as I found out it was to the left. Just under the left rockshaft arm. There are two enclosed bundles of wires, and I have the connector and connection taped together. The red wire is from the light, and I think John Miller III was right when he said the purple wire in the harness was the correct one. Good luck.

Bob_Trevithick · Jan 2, 2002

...Attached is a pic of the rear of my JD4300, showing the wiring harness where the connector is for the work light.

Beautiful shot.. thanks!

If I go this route rather than wiring in an additional switch, then I would just have to get some wire, connect to the correct (probably purple but I'll test to make sure) lead, find a way to run my new wire up into the ROPS, and then open up the rear work light, undo whatever wiring they did at the dealer, and connect it up. Sound about right? What type/gauge of wire would I need? Should I solder or just crimp?

Thanks again!

Hillbilly · Jan 2, 2002

Switch Panel/Fuse Block Kit
9PSF1

This kit is a must for multiple accessory applications. It professionalizes the installation and streamlines service. No more switches scattered around the dash and no more multiple wires to the battery. One heavy gauge lead makes this installation a clean one.

http://www.curtisintl.com/

Curtis Cab has a lot of assecories,I have this switch panel fuse box from them,it really simplifies things and gives you a switch for every accessory you would ever need. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Bob_Trevithick · Jan 2, 2002

Wow.. nice site! They have all kinds of interesting stuff, but that fuse block looks great. Where did you install yours?

Thanks,
Bob

beenthere · Jan 2, 2002

You have the right idea. No. 18 wire will work fine. Crimping is fine too. You will have a better idea when you find out how they hooked up the light you have, then see what additional wiring is needed. A short length of stiff wire may be needed to push through the ROPS first, from the light down to near the axle.

Bob_Trevithick · Jan 2, 2002

Now that I'm going to get into the wiring thing, an idea (ut oh!) occurred to me. Maybe I'll add one or two quick connect plugs so that I can quickly add one or two of those rotating emergency lights on top of the ROPS. Or, I could unplug those, and stick on some serious flood lights aimed whichever way I need at the moment.

I could envision some kind of attachment scheme for lights on the top of the ROPS.. like a metal strip that goes around the ROPS and tightens with a wingnut. Then just plug in to the quick connect and off I go.

The advantage would be that I could use whatever lights fit the job, and take them off quickly and easily when done with them.

Maybe mount the quick connect plugs one on each of the rear work lights (yes, I've decided that if I'm going to get into the wiring I might as well put a second rear light on. I do plenty of backing up.)

Sound do-able? Does it sound worth doing?

TerryinMD · Jan 2, 2002

Bob,

I will get some pictures of what I did this weekend and post them. I didn't have my camera with me when we did the work so I couldn't document the whole process. Don't like having a digital camera in a garage with two busy adults and three teenage boys working on cars. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif

I'll also create a diagram of the two circuits and the materials I used. This was a work in progress and we had to noodle out of few details as we went along (also bought the wrong switches the first time!! /w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif).

I'll also show the brackets we made from angle aluminum scraps and how they're mounted.

It's always nice to have a point of reference when doing something you're not familiar with. I was there a couple of weeks ago. Again, I'm one of the electrically challlenged. Still learning!! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Terry

Bob_Trevithick · Jan 2, 2002

That would be super! Thanks, Terry!

Bob

Hillbilly · Jan 2, 2002

I have a fiberglass canopy from firebirdfiberglass.com I installed it on the back of the canopy on a console where I can reach right behind and above me and turn on whatever switch I need.I even put a master switch that you have to turn on before the box so I can turn the power off to the whole thing.I run the main wire to the started and installed a fuse next to the starter for safety purposes.I also installed a cigarette lighter next to the master switch/ fuse box it is great for running an electric air compressor.

jyoutz · Jan 3, 2002

I just installed a rear worklight and front-facing floodlight on my JD 4100 last weekend. There are 2 pigtails behind the seat for this install. Each pigtail has a red (hot) wire and a black (neutral) wire. The connections at the end of the pigtail are 14 gauge spade-type terminals. The lights wired to this pigtail are activated when the headlights are switched to the third indent position. You could then still install an inline switch between the pigtail and the light. I didn't bother to install a switch because I don't take my tractor on the road (except by trailer).

Anonymous Poster · Jan 3, 2002

...I already paid somebody to do this for me…
It sounds great,… I'm a bit challenged…
Now that I'm going to get into the wiring thing, an idea (ut oh!) occurred to me. Maybe I'll add one or two quick connect plugs so that I can…

Oh No!... We created a monster...! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Bob, you'll have your unit looking like MarkC's with all those modified lights you've got now planned... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

See, what a little nudging can do... and if worse comes to worse... you can show this printed out thread to your dealer and give them some quick light wiring tips @ no extra charge... /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

TerryinMD · Jan 3, 2002

Jim,

I considered the same thing with my 4100. The only issue I had with this setup is that you'll need to turn on the headlights to use the auxilliary lighting. In some cases, that is necessary. However, I can see times when just the auxilliary lights may be needed without turning on the headlights.

It ain't fun unless you make it more complex. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Terry

Bob_Trevithick · Jan 3, 2002

...I already paid somebody to do this for me…
It sounds great,… I'm a bit challenged…
Now that I'm going to get into the wiring thing, an idea (ut oh!) occurred to me. Maybe I'll add one or two quick connect plugs so that I can…

Oh No!... We created a monster...! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

ROFL!! Yes, you can see a certain progression in my thinking here, can't you? /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Thanks for the nudges! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Now I've decided to give this a lot of thought and do it right. I'll probably spend the winter planning, and then come nice weather, some weekend, turn my new toy into a Christmas tree. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

I spoke to another dealer about checking over my tractor to make sure there is nothing major the "other dealer" did or didn't do that I don't know enough to check out. They said sure, they'd do a complete prep on it like the "other dealer" should have, and make sure things are okay with all adjustments, etc. Never having driven any other tractor than my old GT235, it's hard to know if things are set up right. Getting into B range on the shifter is a bear, for example. Maybe that's normal, maybe not. At least this new dealer comes highly recommended. If only I had known of him before upgrading.

This new dealer thought it was pretty funny that the "other dealer" couldn't figure out the light wiring. He said he opened a box with one of the lights, and it has full instructions including where to find the correct wire under the seat! /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif

Anyway, once you got me over my fear of tinkering, this is going to be twice the fun. Thanks!!

jyoutz · Jan 4, 2002

Boy, some guys sure can complicate things. I figured that if it's dark out, it's dark out and the more lights the better. If I did travel the roads after dark, I would put a switch on the rear light though.

TerryinMD · Jan 4, 2002

Jim,

All light circuits have separate switches. Maybe I wasn't too clear on my explanation.

I finished the circuit drawing last night. I'll take some pictures this weekend to show you some of the details and I'll list the major parts and pieces.

Terry

RoyJackson · Jan 24, 2002

Terry, what's the amp rating on your alternator? It's not listed on the JD website (looked at the 4100 specs).

I'm asking this since I'm thinking about adding more lights to my machine. .

Thanks!

forestcreature · Jan 25, 2002

there are two options on the alternator size in case anyone was wondering....

standard is 20amp.

TerryinMD · Jan 25, 2002

Roy,

FC is correct, the standard alternator puts out 20 Amps. The optional Amp puts out 35 if I'm not mistaken.

I have been remiss at posting my lighthing setup for my JD4100. I have taken the pictures and drawn up a diagram. I need to package it up and post it. Other projects have taken my PC away from me. The kids have to get their 4-H record books done and the forms are PC based now. So, I have to beg to use the either of our PCs at home. I'll get it done somehow this weekend and post the project as a new post.

Terry