Idea for rear work light...

[beenthere]

Bob
Attached is a pic of the rear of my JD4300, showing the wiring harness where the connector is for the work light. Sorry I said it was to the right of center, as I found out it was to the left. Just under the left rockshaft arm. There are two enclosed bundles of wires, and I have the connector and connection taped together. The red wire is from the light, and I think John Miller III was right when he said the purple wire in the harness was the correct one. Good luck.

 

[Bob_Trevithick]

<font color=blue>...Attached is a pic of the rear of my JD4300, showing the wiring harness where the connector is for the work light.</font color=blue>

Beautiful shot.. thanks!

If I go this route rather than wiring in an additional switch, then I would just have to get some wire, connect to the correct (probably purple but I'll test to make sure) lead, find a way to run my new wire up into the ROPS, and then open up the rear work light, undo whatever wiring they did at the dealer, and connect it up. Sound about right? What type/gauge of wire would I need? Should I solder or just crimp?

Thanks again!

 

[Hillbilly]

Switch Panel/Fuse Block Kit
9PSF1

This kit is a must for multiple accessory applications. It professionalizes the installation and streamlines service. No more switches scattered around the dash and no more multiple wires to the battery. One heavy gauge lead makes this installation a clean one.

http://www.curtisintl.com/


Curtis Cab has a lot of assecories,I have this switch panel fuse box from them,it really simplifies things and gives you a switch for every accessory you would ever need. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Bob_Trevithick]

Wow.. nice site! They have all kinds of interesting stuff, but that fuse block looks great. Where did you install yours?

Thanks,
Bob

 

[beenthere]

You have the right idea. No. 18 wire will work fine. Crimping is fine too. You will have a better idea when you find out how they hooked up the light you have, then see what additional wiring is needed. A short length of stiff wire may be needed to push through the ROPS first, from the light down to near the axle.

 

[Bob_Trevithick]

Now that I'm going to get into the wiring thing, an idea (ut oh!) occurred to me. Maybe I'll add one or two quick connect plugs so that I can quickly add one or two of those rotating emergency lights on top of the ROPS. Or, I could unplug those, and stick on some serious flood lights aimed whichever way I need at the moment.

I could envision some kind of attachment scheme for lights on the top of the ROPS.. like a metal strip that goes around the ROPS and tightens with a wingnut. Then just plug in to the quick connect and off I go.

The advantage would be that I could use whatever lights fit the job, and take them off quickly and easily when done with them.

Maybe mount the quick connect plugs one on each of the rear work lights (yes, I've decided that if I'm going to get into the wiring I might as well put a second rear light on. I do plenty of backing up.)

Sound do-able? Does it sound worth doing?

 

[TerryinMD]

Bob,

I will get some pictures of what I did this weekend and post them. I didn't have my camera with me when we did the work so I couldn't document the whole process. Don't like having a digital camera in a garage with two busy adults and three teenage boys working on cars. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif

I'll also create a diagram of the two circuits and the materials I used. This was a work in progress and we had to noodle out of few details as we went along (also bought the wrong switches the first time!! /w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif).

I'll also show the brackets we made from angle aluminum scraps and how they're mounted.

It's always nice to have a point of reference when doing something you're not familiar with. I was there a couple of weeks ago. Again, I'm one of the electrically challlenged. Still learning!! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Terry

 

[Bob_Trevithick]

That would be super! Thanks, Terry!

Bob

 

[Hillbilly]

I have a fiberglass canopy from firebirdfiberglass.com I installed it on the back of the canopy on a console where I can reach right behind and above me and turn on whatever switch I need.I even put a master switch that you have to turn on before the box so I can turn the power off to the whole thing.I run the main wire to the started and installed a fuse next to the starter for safety purposes.I also installed a cigarette lighter next to the master switch/ fuse box it is great for running an electric air compressor.

 

[jyoutz]

I just installed a rear worklight and front-facing floodlight on my JD 4100 last weekend. There are 2 pigtails behind the seat for this install. Each pigtail has a red (hot) wire and a black (neutral) wire. The connections at the end of the pigtail are 14 gauge spade-type terminals. The lights wired to this pigtail are activated when the headlights are switched to the third indent position. You could then still install an inline switch between the pigtail and the light. I didn't bother to install a switch because I don't take my tractor on the road (except by trailer).