Ideas to remove sheared bolt?

[Richard]

My steering cylinder on backhoe needs rebuilt. Couldn't get it off as a unit so had to pull cylinder off while leaving rod in place. Noticed a slight bend in rod so I'm on a mission to get rod off to straighten it out.

Rod is held by a pin and the pin has a lock bolt. The pin essentially has a "pocket" in it and a threaded rod screws through the front, snugs into the pocket and then there is a lock nut that tightens up on the front panel.

The nut is sheared off so there should be no or little tension holding the threaded rod. Too short to grab, I've tried to drill in it but bit keeps wondering off... (yes, I tried to center punch a divot and punch keeps glancing off as bolt isn't "flat".

I don't have a welder (but am now considering buying one)
I don't have an acetelyn (or whatever) torch for heat.... just a little MAP plumbers bottle with torch
Can't "take this" to someone who does as I have no steering
Need to drive into town to get a chisel to see if I can bang it around....
Been spraying it with Penetreat for couple weeks now.


Oh, and since this is something like 35 years old, I am going to suspect there is rust holding the bolt in....I don't know why this bolt would be any different than a couple other items that were rusted in their location.


Thoughts??

The last picture is the pin from the other end of the cylinder so this one should be similar.

 

[Richard]

I've wondered about taking my grinder, grinding a "slit" if it will allow me (I'm dubious) and if so, I have one of those impact screwdrivers that might work??

 

[shovelmike]

I sheared off a bolt in the steering head of my Harley a couple of years ago, easy outs failed, like you I couldn't stay on center either. I bought a set of left hand drill bits, and spun it out easily. I followed up by cleaning up the threads with a tap.
Regarding penetrating oil, a neighbor gave me a can of Aerokroil...it's amazing stuff...I ordered a big can of it. Having read about the efficacy of 50-50 acetone and atf mix, I have some of that mixed up and waiting for my next workshop SNAFU too.

 

[oosik]

I would cut a slot where the missing bolt head was. Heat the part with the broken bolt head with your mapp torch - then hit it hard with an impact driver. You could get lucky and the broken lock bolt just might screw back out.

 

[PILOON]

Ran into similar problem on my snow blower that I'm re building.
Having had previous experience from aviation I Cut off the bolt head flush.
Center punched to start drilling.
Started with small bit, like 1/8" and worked my way up to near hole size and grabbed closest drift punch and drove the remnants out.

One caution, hammering on a protruded end just results in mushrooming it into a tighter fit.

 

[WranglerX]

If you have access to welder drop a nut over the sheared bolt, do plug weld (nut to bolt) and try to remove while still warm (breaks rust bond)....

Dale

 

[LouNY]

That broken bolt is a good candidate for welding a nut on and turning out, but you don't have a welder.
You could have a rig welder come out and do it$$$$$.
It may also walk out with a chisel, a small sharp chisel using just a corner of it.

 

[shaeff]

I'd weld a nut on it, but that's not an option for you yet.

Make a nice flat spot with your grinder without removing too much material. Try the center punch once you've got it flat.

Or, pop a cut-off wheel on your grinder, nice thin one. Wear a full face shield, I've had those suckers scatter on me and it ain't pretty. Cut a slot in it as you mentioned. Heat it, try to drive it out.

 

[BufordBoone]

If you don't have a welder and want something inexpensive and easy to use, I got one of these: Titanium Easy-Flux 125 Amp Welder

It has turned out to be surprisingly easy to use and effective. I used it to repair my gate. Cost me less than getting a professional welder to do the job AND I've got the machine to do other projects.

One word of advice, cobble up something to practice on before tackling the job.

Good luck.

 

[Richard]

Ok, so again, I don't have a welder nor easy access. I've got a couple things that could use to be welded so am contemplating on buying one more for kicks & grins and "to have the right tool when needed" verses becoming a world class bridge builder.

So, my question there would be....

Stick or Mig? I think some do both but you can get those basic stick boxes for less.


Let me ask the question differently..... for THIS application, which would be best?

One thing I don't want to do is be that idiot that welds his nut to his backhoe.

I'm not sure that sounded exactly the way I meant it but I think you know what I mean.

 

[George2615]

All good suggestions.
I'd try cutting a slot, then heat the surrounding area and use the impact driver. If that doesn't work then have a nut plug welded to the remaining stud and back it out.

 

[Redbug]

I think I would try using a reverse hand drill bit. Sometimes once you go far enough the bolt will unscrew with the drill bit. If that does not work, you have the hole to use for the extractor. If there is still a bit of bolt head left, why not try this: IRWIN Bolt Extractor Set, 5-Piece (3942) - Drill Bits - Amazon.com

 

[radios1]

first, you need a flat spot on the bolt, so the bit don't wander, then, you can use a dremel with a pointed bit to make a flat spot, you can use the side of a small ball bit too, which won't wander on you. then, use a small drill bit, and work your way up to a size that will work with an easy out, don't make the hole so big that it will cut the threads, though..

 

[zzvyb6]

A USA made ViceGrips ought to be able to bite down on that bolt if its not totally rusted in there. Grid a nice flat, sharp edge on them and go to work. I'd heat it cherry to relax the corrosion and spin it out. You might have to heat it anyway to drive the cylinder pin out.

 

[Industrial Toys]

There are a lot of options. It matters how much you care about appearance and butchering your equipment.

So how did the head shear off? If the bolt is in there that good that the head sheared off trying to remove, then any ideas of cutting a slot is not going to be worth the time spent on it.

Easy outs are not great on seized or stretched bolts.

 

[FTG-05]

Sounds a perfect excuse to buy a welder.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I don't think it would be my first choice for a first time welding experience. That takes a little experience, if you ask me. Personally, I use a washer, with nut welded on after, or flat metal with a hole drilled in it, like a wrench. I don't like trying to weld down into a (thick) nut.

 

[radios1]

There are a lot of options. It matters how much you care about appearance and butchering your equipment.

So how did the head shear off? If the bolt is in there that good that the head sheared off trying to remove, then any ideas of cutting a slot is not going to be worth the time spent on it.

Easy outs are not great on seized or stretched bolts.

if you use a large enough one they usually work, and another way is to make the hole as large as possible without damaging the threads, then use an air file Air File to make 4 slits inside the bolt, then use a chisel on the out side of the bolt to collapse the pies into the center, then remove them with needle nose pliers, that method has worked for me before!!..

 

[Industrial Toys]

In one sense, a fluted easy out is spreading the bolt making extraction harder than it might need to be. Again, it all matters why the bolt is stuck in there. If it never had lubrication from day one (typical) it can be very challenging.

 

[mcfarmall]

If the third picture is a photo of the bolt head that got twisted off, then it's the funniest looking bolt I've ever seen. Looks to me like a piece of all-thread with a jam nut spun down a few threads to lock it in place.

Anyhoo, you are going to need lots of heat and a set of left hand drill bits.