Ideas to remove sheared bolt?

[zzvyb6]

I bought a 211 2 years ago with a 20% coupon. Its a set and forget machine. Pick your gas and metal thickness and that's about it. Runs on 220 or 110 by just changing the wall plug head. Made a 50' extension cord for the 220 and have run it off of a pto generator.

 

[bullbreaker]

I can feel it in my bones , positive news , results coming soon ! This is not the Kando thread , nor are the pallets rotten in the field .................................:2cents:

 

[WranglerX]

There might be a drain plug in his future.

Are you referring to 123 or more pages of how to remove stripped drain plug (smirk)...

Just to comment but once I got my MIG welder I found all kinds of uses for it, a lot more than just simple repair on a single item....... Bought Hobart Handle 140, neat top end machine for 120 volts, does a lot.... Only wish I has seen the future and gotten the Handler 210 MVP for it additional heat on 240 volts...

Dale

 

[aczlan]

So I debate all that verses just buying something and moving on. I found a stick welder but I concluded it wanted to be plugged into a 50 amp circuit. I don't have one of those and am unsure the issues of putting it into say a 30 or 40 (I have several open slots in my garage and can add one quite easily, in fact, I probably already have some breakers laying around)

There shouldn't be any problem with running it on a 30 or a 40 amp outlet, just make sure that the plug is rated for at least as much as the circuit breaker. Not a big deal to have a 50 amp plug on a 30 amp circuit breaker, but a 30 amp plug on a 50 amp circuit breaker can be problematic.
unless you have the welder cranked all the way up you aren't going to be using 50 amps anyways. For something like that 20 amps of 240 would probably be sufficient, but if you have a 40 amp breaker available I would put in a 40 amp breaker with the appropriate wire to a 50 amp plug.
I have various welder outlets that are 50 amp outlets on breakers that are 30 amps, they're generally on a subpanel and there's only 30 amps available, usually that would be enough for most anything I do. In the shop I do have a 40 amp breaker and I have yet to trip it.

If I lived near you, I'd toss my little 110v wire feed into my trunk, drive over, we'd weld a nut on there, back it out, and sip a couple root beers. Good luck. I know it can get frustrating.

Same here, but Tennessee would be a little too far to drive from up here in New York.

Aaron Z

 

[LouNY]

I have had a Hobart Handler for over 30 years and while it has been a good little welder my primary and the first one I reach for is my even older Lincoln cracker box AC only welder.
I did pickup a Miller AC/DC used last year I haven't even tried it yet.
I am well served with my old buzz box, especially on broken bolts were I can hold the nut in the ground clamp put it in position, reach in with the stinger and pour the heat into a quick weld, I run the amps up high and just do a series of quick welds with my standby rod 6011.

 

[WranglerX]

There shouldn't be any problem with running it on a 30 or a 40 amp outlet, just make sure that the plug is rated for at least as much as the circuit breaker. Not a big deal to have a 50 amp plug on a 30 amp circuit breaker, but a 30 amp plug on a 50 amp circuit breaker can be problematic.
unless you have the welder cranked all the way up you aren't going to be using 50 amps anyways. For something like that 20 amps of 240 would probably be sufficient, but if you have a 40 amp breaker available I would put in a 40 amp breaker with the appropriate wire to a 50 amp plug.
I have various welder outlets that are 50 amp outlets on breakers that are 30 amps, they're generally on a subpanel and there's only 30 amps available, usually that would be enough for most anything I do. In the shop I do have a 40 amp breaker and I have yet to trip it.




Same here, but Tennessee would be a little too far to drive from up here in New York.

Aaron Z

The more or less industry standard today is to use a NEMA 6-50 plug/receptacle combination (50 amp) on ANY 240V welder no matter what the current draw is or what size breaker is feeding it...

Dale

 

[Richard]

I appreciate the nice comments and good vibes.

It IS going to come out one way or another.... if I'm nothing, I'm persistent.

Talked to my fabricator friend who's got a 110V portable welder. He's going to bring it over and, he's going to do the welding. Little does he know but he is ALSO going to fix the bent rod which is the whole reason for this endeavor.

I have a 100' 12g extension cord. I don't know how good it would be to put the welder 100' away on that size wire..... so, I also have the 8-3 wire sitting in the garage. Just earlier today, hunted down some parts.

Took a 20 amp outlet.... took the ends of the 8g wire, split them up a bit so that I could put the black wire on BOTH terminals on the outlet. 8g is way too big to put under the screw but I got it wiggled in there and split them. Since the two halves are joined with the copper bridge, I still have one contact point (in my way of thinking)

Then, on the other end, I only have an extra 20 amp breaker laying about and had to nip two strands off the wire to make it fit (it's a double 20 breaker..as in two single poles)

So what I'm hoping I've now created is a 20 amp probably 50' (no clue on length) extension cord using 8g wire for hot, neutral and I have no idea what size the ground wire is.

This should be a 2-use item. Weld a nut on and since he's here, RE-weld my "trailer stand" or whatever they call the crank that holds the front end of a trailer or in my case, the front end of my rotary cutter up in the air so I don't need my backhoe.

I will say, mounting an 8g wire onto an outlet isn't "quick and easy" but it can be done. Oh, I had to snip I think it was two strands to thin it down a bit.

mounted it in an outdoor weatherproof box.

I don't know how well it might work but I thought it was a pretty crafty assembly of parts on hand!!!

 

[3Ts]

If I understand you correctly you should be ok. You're basically running a black, white, and bare wire from the breaker panel with a 240 v double breaker to a 20 amp outlet as an extension cord.

I have a project coming up where there is no 240v outlet nearby, but the main breaker panel is close. When it's time, I'll pull the cover off the main breaker panel and put in (temporarily) a 240v breaker and attach the black, white & ground. Then wire the other end with the proper outlet so I can plug my welder into it. Essentially a 240 v extension cord that plugs into the main breaker panel. That means that the main breaker cover will be off while I do my welding. It's just me and my wife and she knows enough not to go poking around in the panel with the cover off. I would not do this if there was anyone else around unless I had someone I trusted to keep an eye on it.

 

[MossRoad]

If I understand you correctly you should be ok. You're basically running a black, white, and bare wire from the breaker panel with a 240 v double breaker to a 20 amp outlet as an extension cord.

I have a project coming up where there is no 240v outlet nearby, but the main breaker panel is close. When it's time, I'll pull the cover off the main breaker panel and put in (temporarily) a 240v breaker and attach the black, white & ground. Then wire the other end with the proper outlet so I can plug my welder into it. Essentially a 240 v extension cord that plugs into the main breaker panel. That means that the main breaker cover will be off while I do my welding. It's just me and my wife and she knows enough not to go poking around in the panel with the cover off. I would not do this if there was anyone else around unless I had someone I trusted to keep an eye on it.

Nope. I think he's running 110V.

 

[pmsmechanic]

If I didn't have a welder I would heat the bolt up and soak the threads in candle wax. As it cooled I would be tapping the end sticking out with a hammer. You do that three times and you should be just about able to turn it out with your fingers. A slot ground in the end of the bolt and a screw driver would do it. The hammering on the bolt head acts like an impact gun and loosens the threads. It also creates a bit of clearance where the bolt is jammed up against the hole in the pin. The wax lubricates and gets drawn down the threads as the metal cools.

Welding a washer and a nut on the bolt will also loosen things up. Have a candle handy and hold it against the parts as they cool. Give the nut several good whacks with a hammer and it should easily turn out. Again hitting the bolt good with a hammer will loosen the threads and give a tiny bit of clearance on the internal end of the bolt.