If I can find that multimeter... I will test my charging system today (how?)

[SnowRidge]

That is the correct value for these little permanent magnet alternators. The voltage is rectified and regulated to the proper DC voltage by the firewall mounted regulator.

Well, I was wrong about the alternator. I thought it was a car type. However, I used to have a Yamaha motorcycle that had a similar charging system to the one on the Yanmar. It used a shunt regulator, which turned the excess juice to heat. On my bike, one of the windings in the alternator fried itself, and the battery would not charge properly. If I jumped the battery and started it, it would run fine and stay running, but never fully charge the battery. If I shut if off, I would have to jump it again.

I would still measure the DC voltage at the battery terminals with it running. That is a basic test to see if their is adequate charging voltage, unless the battery has already been ruled out.

 

[Tom_Veatch]

...I used to have a Yamaha motorcycle that had a similar charging system to the one on the Yanmar. It used a shunt regulator, which turned the excess juice to heat. ...

That may very well be the way the regulator functions on these machines as well. I don't know since they are sealed units, I don't have an internal schematic of them, and couldn't read it even if I did. They do have a fairly heavy fin cooled case, so I'd assume there is a fairly significant heat source inside.

I would still measure the DC voltage at the battery terminals with it running. That is a basic test to see if their is adequate charging voltage, unless the battery has already been ruled out.

Absolutely, and should be the very first thing tested if there is any suspicion that the charging circuit is faulty. I confess that I assumed that had been done. If the running voltage across the battery isn't noticably higher than the non-running voltage and the alternator is functional, these charging systems are so simple that about the only things left are:

• a faulty conductive path from the regulator to the battery
• a faulty connection from the regulator to ground
• a non functional regulator

Of course, that assumes that the only symptom is that the battery isn't being charged.

My research indicates that if a faulty component is the culprit, there's a high probablility that it's the regulator (to the tune of something in the neighborhood of $90 delivered).

 

[reb]

...
With engine off, disconnect the charging wire from the starter motor solenoid. Reconnect the heavy gauge wire. Caution: during the next step, make sure the connector on the end of the charging wire does not touch any point on the tractor chassis. You might temporarily wrap it with electrical tape or something similiar. You want to prevent the charging wire shorting to ground.

Start the engine and set it to about 1000 RPM or so. Now, being careful to prevent the charging wire from touching any point on the chassis, measure the DC voltage beween the charging wire and any bare metal on the engine or chassis. You may have to try several different places on the tractor chassis to be sure your multimeter probe is making a good electrical contact. If you can't find any place that gives a reading in about the 12 to 14VDC range, then no charging current is getting to the battery.

...

Good basic explanation, Tom. However, based on analysis of the circuit used on the 1610 (in an earlier thread), it appears that circuit does not work exactly as you explained. It has been a while since I looked at it, but as I recall the output of the regulator will not be in the 12 to 14VDC range when disconnected from the battery. The 1401 regulator might be similar. I would suggest the easiest test of the regulator is the voltage test recommended elsewhere in this thread. The best test would be to connect an ammeter between the battery and the charging wire and monitor the charging current. Set the multimeter to full scale 10 amps or so, connect the positive lead (red) to the regulator wire and the negative (black) to the battery + lead, ensuring neither lead can contact anything else. Then start the engine and monitor the reading as the rpms are increased. The meter will register the charging current. If it is zero, the regulator is probably dead.

 

[43WLC]

.

Dennis, I'm more than a little perplexed by this sentence of yours.

I know it is not charging because I occasionally hook it up to my battery charger and it takes a charge for sure.

If it wasn't charging, your battery would be very sluggish after a few starts.
Especially if you used your headlights or sprayer.

Plus, depending on your charger, most charger will put a charge into an alternator charged battery.
By and large, chargers fill batteries fuller than alternators.

Probably the best way to check if your alternator is working Ok,
is to park opposite a wall at dusk, and rev your engine from a slow tickover.
If your lights get brighter, your alternator is charging.

If they don't, it aint.

If they don't, try a new fanbelt.
And keep it tight.

Look around eBay for a Krikit II Micro-V® (V-Ribbed) Belt Tension Gauge - Merchandising & Sales Aids | Gates Corporation
You'll be amazed how tight belts should be.

Mike

 

[clemsonfor]

When i first saw this thread, i was thinking where did this come from? 2 pages and was no where in sight on the board this mourn, then see its a 5 yr old "zombie" thread brought back to life!

 

[43WLC]

.
Well, I'll go to the bottom of our stairs.

I got an email this morning headed - Mid-Year Maintenance Checklist
August, 2012 Compact & Utility Tractor Newsletter

The link
Test Battery Voltage
Not only does your battery power your electronic functions, but it ignites the spark that leads to combustion inside your engine, keeping you going! Learn how to operate a multimeter and test your battery's voltage from home: Click http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/108445-if-i-can-find-multimeter.html
.

Mike

 

[joshuabardwell]

.
Not only does your battery power your electronic functions, but it ignites the spark that leads to combustion inside your engine, keeping you going!

Not my engine!

 

[clemsonfor]

Cant beleive they linked to such an old "dead" thread? i thought they usually used newer ones? Furthur more its strange to link to a voltage/alt thread in a deisel tractor section saying that it "helps ignie the spark in youtr tractor"?

 

[43WLC]

.
Never mind eh?

The thought was there.
It was a kind thought, but I'm not sure what kind.

 

[clemsonfor]

nothing against you man, i think they have some settings kind of weird to be linking to and dragging up such old threads. I find it hard to beleive there are no more current threads on the subject than this.