If I could only have one cutting tool...?

[kennyd]

I see the biggest advantage of the cutting torch to be versatility...Cut, braze, heat for bending, weld.

That is definitely true....

I see the biggest advantage of the Cut-off saw to be precision...good clean cuts, precise angles.

That is definitely NOT true. As mentioned before, a cut-off saw is not very accurate or precise. Don't make the mistake of comparing it to a mitre saw used for wood, you certainly won't be doing crown moulding or picture frames with a cutoff saw!
If want clean cuts, great angles and precision, then a good bandsaw is in you future.

But to answer your original question, If I could only have ONE cutting tool it would be a large plasma cutter capable of at least 3/4" or even 1".

 

[CATMAN]

Torch wins; Hands down. My Dad only has a torch on the farm (no chop saw) and he doesn't know how he got along without before 1975. He purchased it with a 9" right angle grinder to remove a metal floor inside one on his 25' diameter silos. These paid for themselves on that one job. Guess who did the work? Yep, it was me. Anyways, I don't think you will ever regret having a torch around the homestead.

 

[Tom_Veatch]

...Tom, I have been experiencing some serious blade flex in my chop saw and this is the reason for wanting the band saw. I have lost several projects to the blade flexing. Glad to hear that I am not the only one with the problem. ...

Nope, you're not the only one. I tried different blades, and couldn't tell much difference in cutting accuracy between el-cheapo Harbor Freight and DeWalt abrasive blades - which, I assume, are better quality. For sure, they cost more.

Scribe a line for a square cut, ensure the blade is square with the table and vise square with the blade, and the cut would wander from the line as much as 3/32". OK for rough cuts, but not for finish cuts to final size. Not to mention the chop saw is noiser, and MUCH, MUCH messier. Add in the time savings from not having to cut long and grind/file to final size and I couldn't be happier with the decision to retire the chop saw in favor of the bandsaw.

 

[Farwell]

Tom,
I spent about 15 minutes this evening looking at the 2007 Grizzly catalog checking out the $825 model that will cut 7"x12" rectangle steel and 7" round stock. I don't have the bucks right now but it is on the list.
David B

 

[Tom_Veatch]

I spent about 15 minutes this evening looking at the 2007 Grizzly catalog checking out the $825 model that will cut 7"x12" rectangle steel and 7" round stock.

The specs look pretty good, Grizzly offers a good "bang for the buck", and I've found that, when all is said and done, their post-sale customer service is quite good.

I'm mostly a tinkerer/hobbyist when it comes to metalwork so I initially went with their smallest one, the little G0622. The one you're talking about is much larger and certainly attractive, but $825 was a little more than I felt comfortable spending. I wound up having to send the G0622 back to them. There were simply more problems with the machine than I cared to deal with.

The G0622 is a new item in the Grizzly product line, and I don't know if the problems I had are inherent to the model, "teething problems" of new production, or maybe mine was just a lemon. But, customer service was very cooperative and when I finally decided I'd dinked with it enough, gave me no backtalk on returning it. They even refunded the initial shipping which I did not expect.

I found an equivalent sized Jet bandsaw at a local distributor which I was able to check out prior to the sale and who discounted it to the equivalent of the delivered price of the Grizzly. So far, I haven't had a single problem with it, haven't needed the larger capacity of the 7x12 machine, and am very happy with the Jet.

About the finest pitch blades I can find stocked around here are 14 tpi. Much of what I've work with is thin gauge shapes and tubing less than 1/8 thick and have found that the hardened teeth/bi-metal 14 tpi blades tend to shed their teeth on the thin stuff. I have better luck with the carbon steel blades than I do with the bi-metal blades - at least with the thin gauge tubing. May have to special order some finer pitched blades.

 

[R W]

Have a 14" cut off saw, O/A, 9"AG and a power hacksaw. All have there uses.
S/H power hacksaws are cheap and are more accurate & neater(but slower) than a cut off saw or oxy, especially in thick flat or round bar.

 

[tlbuser]

About the finest pitch blades I can find stocked around here are 14 tpi. Much of what I've work with is thin gauge shapes and tubing less than 1/8 thick and have found that the hardened teeth/bi-metal 14 tpi blades tend to shed their teeth on the thin stuff. I have better luck with the carbon steel blades than I do with the bi-metal blades - at least with the thin gauge tubing. May have to special order some finer pitched blades.

MSC has blades reasonably priced. A good blade chart is on page 1680 of their catalog. MSC Big Book

 

[Asymtave]

Just thought I'd throw it out there since no one mentioned it -

I have a "OK" table saw (Delta floor model, 1.25 HP, cast iron top direct drive) that I retired when I got my Unisaw. It now lives in the metal shop with an abrasive cut off blade in it.

It has some of the downsides of the chop saw like noise and mess, but you have the choice of using table saw accessories like miter gauge, panel cutter for more accuracy, etc. Of course you're not going to cut 4" tubing on it.....

Just a thought. If you have a table saw, you could spend the money on a torch and have both. It's a good idea to clean most of the sawdust out of the saw before using for metal.

 

[tawilson]

I've got bandsaws, torches, metal cutting skil saw, grinders and sawzalls. I think the best one for covering a lot of different applications is the sawzall.

 

[AlanB]

I would throw in that it would depend more on if you are doing more repairs or more fabrications, ie building new stuff.

Repairs, and adding on to an existing structure or assembly, I want the torch hands down, actually want a plasma, but that would come after the torch.

If you are sitting in the shop fabricating things up from scratch, I would say get a chop saw or band saw, or whatever you feel is most appropriate. I personally use my bandsaw far more then my chop saw, but my dad is just the opposite. Then again,,, he uses his Pirannah to cut most things and I just turn green with envy every time I use it..

Short answer, buy a good quality torch set and a decent set of tanks. I use a B and a small oxygen, but am very concientious and get it on going and done, and have a fair amount of junkyard time running torches. Most new users of torches (and I am assuming from the question that you are) will be more frustrated then anything if trying to work with small bottles. And do not even consider the kits with the little tanks smaller then an Acy B.