Buying Advice If you could do it all over again....

   / If you could do it all over again.... #81  
I started off looking for a SCUT, but wound up with a Kubota B26. Not really sure how, but I did. My B26 has about 4300 lbs of bucket breakout force. The regular B's, like the B3030 have around 3100 lbs. I believe the SCUTs have around half that, or even less. I just looked at a MF and it only had 1000 lbs of breakout force. Not really sure what that would be good for, other then planting shrubs.

Anyway, what I am trying to say is, I am very grateful to all the guys on forums like this one, for talking me into the larger tractor. I can't imagine digging out medium to large stumps with anything less then I have now. I think one of the biggest mistakes a first time buyer commonly makes, is buying too small, trading in for a larger one, and taking a really big hit. We all hate seeing that happen, all but the dealers that is.

Guys like TripleR and Jenkinsph have a whole lot of tractor experience and always seem to give good, sound advice. Just because they are not answering your specific question, doesn't mean it's not worth listening to.

Oh one more thing, when I was looking for my tractor, I had gone to a Bobcat dealer. He offered to let me take the tractor of my choice home for a week or so, just to try it out, and to get a better idea of what size tractor I really needed. No strings attached. How can you ask for more then that? Ask around, maybe your dealer will do the same.
 
   / If you could do it all over again.... #82  
I have 2+ acres of mowing and 12+ more acres of woods, plus an 1800' gravel drive to maintain in VA. I reclaimed those mowed acres. I also needed to build a shed (20'x20' on a slope dropping 1' for every 5'). I got a JD2305 + 260 backhoe and it was great. I needed to have a talented neighbor with a small dozer regrade the drive as it was horrific to start with, but after that I have been able to spread gravel and maintain it perfectly. I dug the entire shed foundation with the little 2305 and that was slow (several days), but went without any hitches. I bush-hogged the field to recover it, filled low spots with soil and leveled it, and now mow it quite happily. I have also dug and pulled several stumps in the 10-14" range (oak, pine, poplar) and it takes a while, but they all come down and then out. I also carried 3 cords worth of logs and rounds with it afterwards (gotta love 3pt forks... Artillian makes a good set).

The only thing I really regretted was not having position control. It made 3pt work an incredible pain and frankly I found it faster to hop off and use a real rake to level dirt than to use the landscape rake. I know others can effectively use 3pt's without position control (judging from experienced forum posts) but I certainly couldn't. It eventually bothered me enough that I took the opportunity to upgrade to a JD1026R + 260. For me, this has been an incremental upgrade in pretty much every dimension.

I understand the posters recommending "bigger"... most things I listed would have been faster and easier with a bigger model (for one thing they pretty much all have position control). But for my money the JD1026R is perfect. I love not needing yet another machine to mow with. I also found that all the bigger tractors sit way higher (I tested a couple on the property), and I couldn't use them happily on my slopes (the 1' for 5' drop is about the gentlest around on my property) and around under my trees. The JD 10XX and 2305 are really squat and work well on slopes... This costs you if you want to go over rough terrain sometimes, but everything is a tradeoff and I like it better this way. I also don't think, on my land, that the 2520 mowed half as well (tippier and left ruts, my smaller tractor doesn't). I know bigger works great for others and they all are wonderful machines, it just doesn't for me.

I can only speak for green. I have a good green dealer near me and (as others will agree to) that can make all the difference so I stuck with that. That would be something I'd second that wiser have recommended... Go with a dealer that you trust and don't mind being with for years. Orange and all the other well known colors are of course great too (I hear *grin*). And If I had a great orange dealer just down the road instead I'd probably be extolling the smallest orange with position control (and telling you how I regretted that I started with the one just smaller than that one).

my (barely) 2c... worth every penny =)
 
   / If you could do it all over again.... #83  
We have 6 acres in VA with a creek some woods a couple of hills and a lot of grass and we have a Kubota Bx2350. We call it the Mighty Ant. It has about 400 hours on it in three years and been used WAY past what it was designed for. It has a 60inch MMM and FEL. Some experiances i have had with the BX: it can be unstable on side slopes driving over logs and with a full load in the bucket this takes some getting used to, i never travel with the bucket up past the hood unless i have to and i go real slow on slopes.
Also if you stand next to the tractor grab the ROP and push the tractor side to side as if you are trying to push it over you can get the rear wheels off the ground.
The trans axle casing is VERY expensive to replace $6000.00 we bought a skid plate form Bro Tek and it now has some good dents in it the casing is unharmed as is the plastic cooling fan in front of it.
we also got the Brush forks and after some mods they are the one of the best things we did i hace picked up 2' dia 4' long red oak logs and moved them, Should i have done that "**** NO" the forks are great for lifting and carrying stuff fire wood/ branches/ lumber for projectsetc.
The anti swing tie things on the 3 point link are a pain to deal with hooking up the PTO is also awkward as there is not much room to work in.

Would i Buy it again? No we should have gone to a B series which one i am not sure but higher ground clearance and wider track. The more useable features would be better now. Back when we bought it we did not know much about tractors only after using it the way we have do we realise what we should have done.
My advise if you intend to use it as a big yard/garden tractor on mostly 85% level ground and what options for adding 3 point attachments this is a Wounderful little tractor that will give you years of faithfull service and excede your expectations.
If you going to be running up and down hills go up to some thing wider with a better center of gravity.
If you want to move dirt go with a TLB they are built for doing that. A tractor with a back hoe is not.

We cut our stumps flush with the ground so the mower deck does not catch them. Have tried every thing except a stump grinder. time spent cleaning out the saw is less than all the other ways.


We now have a 2010 Kubota L4400 with FEL and BH92 with thumb that is being used within its design spec.. Except for side slopes. But it is mainly for 57acres of WV mountainside.
I love the BX2350 it has done more than i ever thought it would but it will let you do more than you should do with it, and you end up shortening its life.
 
   / If you could do it all over again.... #84  
skim read through your thread.

trees and stumps, washouts, trenches for field tile to septic line, retaining wall, snow removal, assuming rock drive way, 20 to 30 percent slope.

the small things....
general duty bucket for front loader, be nice to have a good clean cutting edge, and possibly removeable teeth for the bucket, 2 to 3 hooks on top of bucket and most likely top of bucket re-enforced for the hooks. (hooks make it nice for chains)

it would be nice to have a grabber attachment for general duty front end laoder bucket, or a 4 in 1 bucket, for front loader. but that would be extra and would say you could live without the grabber or 4 in 1 bucket. but you know your projects and land better than anyone. and it could easily swap type of bucket you go with.

3pt hitch backhoe with subframe. would be very good thing, granted it may take time for larger stumps but could be douable. if it was only stump here or there through out the years ok. but if you are wanting a large amount of stumps done, gas for tractor, plus hassle and headaches, i would hire it out or rent a mini excavator or have a dozer come in. on other hand personally can not live without a backhoe they come in real handy many times, and from sounds of it a backhoe would make life easier and would pay for itself fairly easily.

i would at min go with a mechanical "thumb" for the backhoe. it can make life easier more so with some of the projects i read you might have.

most likely you will end up with a 3pt hitch rear blade, and a box blade. partly for snow, party to deal with gravel drive way, partly to re-work your landscape and get things smooth again.

a bush hog many folks call them but rottory cutter, for dealing with tall weeds and brush. you could pick up a used smaller size unit, to help deal weeds and like. and then use a finishing mower (belly mower or 3pt hitch) to cut grass regularly.

you will most likely want some sort of tool box on tractor. and another spot to place some chains,

possible a 3pt hitch carry all. to deal with say fire wood, or moving tools from one place to another place. it is either a carry-all or 3pt forks. or perhaps forks that fit on the front bucket of tractor.

pending on driveway and how it slopes, possibly chains for rear tires.

myself, i require rear tire "diffential lock" so i can lock both tires so they spin the exact same speed. gets me out of alot of stuck situations, and keeps me moving. i also require left and right rear break pedals, they come in very handy, both getting unstuck, but also stearing around some things. personally prefer gas pedal one foot, left and right back rear brake pedals other foot. MFWD or rather 4x4 drive is always nice, but differential lock and left and right rear break pedals, are extremely nice.

you have enough projects, and in that seat time, i would hate manual shifting and constantly pushing the foot clutch in. i would suggest finding something that avoids this as much as possible for the tranmission. there is way to much forward reversing, changing gears, it is like manual tranmission in a truck, and having to go from a dead stop to 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear. every 2 minutes the entire day. it is a killer pushing a foot clutch in all the time.

min 1 rear remote, do you really need a snow blower? a rear blade and front end loader general duty bucket can do the job pretty good, though if you have rear left and right break pedals it can make for easier spinning around on ice / snow to dump snow off to the side. though if driveway is narrow and steep on one or both sides, snow blower may be a big ticket requirement. and would say put money into a wind block around the seat first. keeping wind off you can be a bigger ticket in winter, at least for me.

postiton control. or rather, raise and lower a 3pt hitch implement and it stays were you want it. is extremely nice and needed for a few things.

it is not needed, but if you had spare cash, i would say place it into a TNT (top and tilt) for the 3pt hitch, and the extra joystick or levelers and hyd remotes for it. and if you think you will go for TNT later on when cash is avilable, i would say, get the extra remotes now when buying the tractor. due to it will more likely be cheaper now buying everything together. vs down road. and possibly hauling trackter into a dealer and paying dealer hourly costs. vs possibly reduced labor costs when buying all at same time.

for me, there is never enough day light, more so this time of year. having a min of one rear work light is a blessing. it is a pain, not being able to see things while hooking up or unhooking things, when it goes dark. while head lights are on all tractors, having 2 work lights mounted to say the ROPS (roll over protection) facing forward can make life easier as well. more so when you have a front end loader. head lights end up getting blocked by the bucket, and you can not see were the bucket is in location to the ground and at what angle. and those front work lights can make those 30 minutes to 1 hour after sun sets more productive vs placing the tractor into the shed.

========================

to the above, you have enough lawn, and enough projects. that yes if money is tight getting one tractor is good. but enough lawn and hassles, i would say get 2 tractors one just for mowing, and then a second tractor for everything else. mowing = to much seat time. all the other projects = multi purpose doings, and you might be better served with a bigger tractor to reduce seat time and getting things done. granted to me a scut (sub compact utilty tractor) is an over size lawn mower. and CUT (compact utitly tractor) there can be a change over in overall "frame" were everything sets higher and more ground clearance in getting through mud and snow. 2 tractors mean perhaps going with ag tires vs turf tires. to deal with mud and snow traction better. and then turf tires for the regular lawn mower. to keep grass looking better and not tearing it up when just mowing.


a bigger tractor is always nice, but all the little extras add up very quickly. but it is those extras, that can make or break a deal. and make your life easier. and could but a bigger tractor with extreme basics, vs having a smaller tractor with all the extras. a tough choice. for me, i would say i want the extras. and implements vs just a larger tractor with very basics that limit what i can do. it may mean more seat time for larger projects. but...*shrugs* on other hand, if you are fairly mechanically inclined. and have the basic tools already, it very well may by more worth it to go with a bigger tractor, and secondary lawn mower, and then as time / money / projects need to be done, add things to the tractor as needed. there is a good third party market for many things. but ya need to be mechanically inclined to take advantage of it. without paying out more cash long haul.

================

again with others, if you are going to be clearing out a good amount of trees. hire it out, or rent a bigger tractor or dozer for that. and then get something that should fit majority of all your other projects.

i realize renting or hiring it out. including myself. i do not like doing. DIY'er here. but there is a point between taking forever and twiddling your thumbs, vs getting it done and being done with it, and moving on to next project.
 

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