If you could only own one

DAP · Jun 29, 2004

Jim ... why do you recommend the rear hinged blade?

fishman · Jun 29, 2004

I've used both, and a boxblade is much more useful because it can accomplish a variety of tasks. A back blade is very useful to distribute loose material, but that's about it. A boxblade can tear up consolidated material with rippers as well as distribute loose stuff. Because it is a box, the material can be moved a long distance without spilling out the sides as well. In a pinch, a box blade, rippers fully extended, can be used to tear up soil for planting food plots for wildlife or even a garden . . . I know because I do it every year. Lastly, if you have a loader, the box blade is usually heavier and more compact than a rear blade, and I think it works much better as a counterbalance.

chrisjbell · Jun 29, 2004

Chris has a blade that he doesn't want and would buy a boxblade. Chris - You REALLY should have suggested that Rich get a blade! 

Doh! My thinkin' and schemin' cap was definately not on /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif!

I'd sure be willing to sell off my blade and put the money towards a box (might get the CFO to go for that /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif), but I doubt it'll work for Rich. I think he has a B24something and would want a 60" blade - mines a 48".

Zoomie · Jun 30, 2004

If ALL you have is the blade, the box is more useful than the grader blade.

If, however, you have a tiller, and rear scoop or front end loader... the grader blade, for me, has been much more useful for all the things I need a blade to do.

The tiller does a night-and-day better job at breaking up the ground than the box blade and rippers. And the scoop/loader allows you to move the dirt over any intervening barriers, rather than having to drag the material around or across them.

FWIW

chrisjbell · Jun 30, 2004

Yeah, if I had a tiller the rear blade would be a lot more useful. The biggest problem with it is it just can't break up the ground (no scarfiers). And the other thing that often happens with it is if I do get it to take a good "bite" it digs in deep and becomes a "tractor anchor" /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif. Maybe if I had float control...but I don't /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif, and my feathering technique isn't good enough to get a smooth trail.

Gary_in_Indiana · Jun 30, 2004

Welcome to TBN! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Add my voice to the chorus telling you to get a box blade. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I have 60" box blade made by Midwest and couldn't be happier with it. I've used it to maintain my drive and to level some clay mounds and for about everything in between and it's performed flawlessly.

Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

KiotiJohn · Jun 30, 2004

As if you need another opinion, Boxblade. John

Darren · Jun 30, 2004

An L48 Kubota has the moxey to pull a heavy blade. The weight makes the difference in what you can do. A light blade can be an exercise in frustration. I use a 176-9 BushHog blade on a Ford 5600. The blade weighs close to 1,400 lbs and is rated for tractors up to 125 hp. Before I bought a blade I looked at what the Ford (60 pto hp) could handle. The tractor can easily wag that blade around and as long as I don't try to shove a 4' high pile all at once, it will do the job and it DOES NOT bounce. The blade turns the Ford into a bulldozer.

With the offset capabilities, I don't have to get down in the ditch. The only thing I regret is that I don't have hydraulic tilt. With a smaller tractor, I say go for the box blade. With the power you have, you can buy a heavy back blade that will work for you.

fractal · Jul 7, 2004

For moving material?

Box blade..

I have a tiller, and I use the box with rippers down before I till a hard packed area. It cuts my tilling time in half for not too much effort.

I have a box and a tiller so have adapted to using them. I suppose it is possible to adapt to using a back blade. I just find the rippers very valuable and the ability to level large areas by carrying a load of dirt across it invaluable.

jinman · Jul 7, 2004

( Jim ... why do you recommend the rear hinged blade? )

Sorry Doug, I haven't been back to this thread in a few days, and I almost missed your question.

I like the rear hinged blade because it allows the inside blade to get a better bite in loose soil and cut deeper. If the rear blade is fixed, it tends to float the box.

Both my boxblades are hinged and both can be pinned down if needed. When the rear blade is pinned down, it works better for spreading/smoothing material unless that material includes clods of clay. If that's the case, the rear blade will lift the box and you'll get more material released than you intended. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif If the rear blade is hinged, a clod or stone just pushes it up out of the way without lifting the box. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif