If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here...

   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #391  
Early in the season, prior to the ground freezing-up, I frequently use my SB200 as a push box. Works pretty darn well. Towards (or at) the end of a push, I'll kick the hydraulics in and blow all the crud out. (Note: I have the "high torque/low speed" fan motor). Alternatively, I won't use the hydraulics at all and at the end of a push I'll promptly go into reverse and "pop" myself back. This works especially well with snow/slush where I've found the blower function less than ideal.

Thus, I've found the whole skid/shoe thing to be fairly irrelevant. Also, I almost never use the float function for snow removal. Disclosure: I do 99% of my snow removal over "roadmix"... a mixture of sand and 3/4" gravel...this is commonplace for road topping in this area.
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #392  
The driveways that I plow are very undulating due to the terrain we have here and on the paved driveways I find using the float function very helpful. On the gravel drives I don't use float and I try to keep the leading edge a couple of inches off the ground but these machines don't hold a curl so I have to keep curling back up so the SB isn't eating gravel and digging into someone's driveway. Very frustrating and a real big gripe of mine.

I sure wish someone could figure out a way to keep the curl hydraulics locked instead of bleeding off. I don't understand hydraulics, and this machine well enough to know why it can't be done.

DEWFPO
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #393  
Yeah DEWFPO I never thought about it but I have the 29" road package as well so maybe the extra inch is fighting me... my SB200 is 66" with the 9.6 motor which I believe is the high torque low speed.. my 3pt was way more forgiving than this.. but its currently 19 degrees and snowing so hopefully some frost is in there for tonights snowblowing!
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #394  
Hey DEWFPO, did you ever buy chains for your 29" tires? I'm sick of getting stuck on almost level ground with 3 35 gallon plastic barrels full of stone and sand in the back for ballast. there are some peerless chains I was going to get for the front to see if that would help.. any watchouts for fitment with the taller tires? I found these (my price point) for limited personal use and should be easy on/off with the tensioners included as Momma Bear doesn't want chain marks on her brand new concrete in the pole building.

http://www.truckntow.com/v-bar-single-tire-chains-trc399.htmlk-Chains-with-Camlock/46379022#about-item"]https://www.walmart.com/ip/Square-Link-Alloy-Truck-Chains-with-Camlock/46379022#about-item[/URL]
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #395  
Hey DEWFPO, did you ever buy chains for your 29" tires? I'm sick of getting stuck on almost level ground with 3 35 gallon plastic barrels full of stone and sand in the back for ballast. there are some peerless chains I was going to get for the front to see if that would help.. any watchouts for fitment with the taller tires? I found these (my price point) for limited personal use and should be easy on/off with the tensioners included as Momma Bear doesn't want chain marks on her brand new concrete in the pole building.

http://www.truckntow.com/v-bar-single-tire-chains-trc399.htmlk-Chains-with-Camlock/46379022#about-item"]https://www.walmart.com/ip/Square-Link-Alloy-Truck-Chains-with-Camlock/46379022#about-item[/URL]

Hi mykleh,

Yes I did. The one's I bought (RUD 3210R) fit several tire sizes (all the way up to 31x10.5's) and I have a lot of chain take up when I install them so tensioners are a must. The chains do help quite a bit in deep snow and on glare ice but it makes the ride pretty darn lumpy. Not as bad as driving on 4 square tires, but close.

I try to stay in 2WS with my "D" Series since I get better traction in 2WS than in 4WS. I only use 4WS when I need the maneuverability.

I sometimes also air down the tires a bit if I don't have the chains on.

I can do pretty well with about 5-600 lbs. of sand bags at the back of the bed but the extra weight can also help you get stuck easier (and harder to get unstuck) under certain circumstances.

When I clear paved driveways I curl the SB down so I scrape the asphalt as clean as I can get it but that takes some load off of the front axle (if I'm not floating the boom). When I start loosing traction I curl the SB up some to put more load on the front axle and occasionally have to lift the SB off the pavement completely to regain traction (or I back down). Some driveways I can only safely blow going downhill (especially those that are also off-camber.) I've slid sideways into brush and trees going down off-camber paved driveways a few times and it's no fun getting unstuck without doing any damage to anything so I just try to avoid those situations if at all possible.

You can still spin the tires with the chains on as well so be aware of that. And spinning chained up tires will degrade whatever surface you spinning on.

The chains do leave 'visual' marks on the asphalt but there's nothing I can do about that and it's worth the extra traction IMO. I don't have any experience with them on concrete surfaces. Most folks out here have gravel drives and only a very few of us have asphalt.

If it weren't for the lumpy ride, I'd leave the chains on the Toolcat all the time.

I've been really busy this year and unfortunately I haven't put the chains on yet this season but wish I had already. I'll be doing that as soon as it warms up a little here. We were -8F this morning.

The chains your looking at are a similar design to the ones I have. I've used V-bar chains in the past on other equipment but I opted not to get them for the Toolcat due to more damage to the pavement and a much higher cost, also the sharp edges wear down fairly fast especially if your spinning the tires and you've lost the expensive advantage fairly quickly.

DEWFPO
High (elevation-wise) in the Rockies
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #396  
Just a heads-up...I think I've posted this before... but if you have extra chain make the end is _very_ well secured. If it isn't...and it gets loose...it can fly around and whack the grease fitting clean off the top of the ball joints (or whatever those are called).
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #397  
Just a heads-up...I think I've posted this before... but if you have extra chain make the end is _very_ well secured. If it isn't...and it gets loose...it can fly around and whack the grease fitting clean off the top of the ball joints (or whatever those are called).

Yep, you have cinch down those 'dangly bits' tight otherwise they wreck havoc on anything within reach of them. And then check them after the first use since things tend to loosen up a bit. In fact, on occasion, I've put the chains on the aired down tires and then aired the tires up to spec to get the chains pretty snug (not too tight), but good and snug.

DEWFPO

DEWFPO
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #398  
Thanks DEWFPO and Spudgunner for the tips.. my driveway is gravel so the only issue of marking is in the pole building its parked in (concrete chips and rust marks its to new for my wife not to notice :-().. I have one hill I can just get up if I leave the SB up a bit then clean it up going down otherwise I have to back up it.. biggest issue is the slope at the end of the driveway by the mailbox.. it gets so slick it can only be about a couple degrees but I've had to push my way out of blown areas with the SB to get out so hoping I could throw the chains on at times like that when I'm home alone to get the thing out of its own tracks.. I have 4x4 trucks and a tractor but the toolcat having no neutral (free wheeling) and weighing as much or more than anything else to pull it by myself without someone in the cab of the toolcat is USELESS.. I make sure I let it idle and warm up before I pull it out of the building as I cannot imagine what I would do if it gelled up like my ford tractor has a couple times.. that thing I just pushed into the garage with a truck and let it sit in a heated garage overnight then changed all the filters and re-primed the fuel.. don't feel bad on the temps.. it was -20F Saturday night with -5 the high on Sunday.. now today they are talking the low 30's.. go figure.. I'll make sure I get the inside slack wire tied off had to do that with the ford or it "clicked" on the fender support every time around..
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #399  
Thanks DEWFPO and Spudgunner for the tips.. my driveway is gravel so the only issue of marking is in the pole building its parked in (concrete chips and rust marks its to new for my wife not to notice :-().. I have one hill I can just get up if I leave the SB up a bit then clean it up going down otherwise I have to back up it.. biggest issue is the slope at the end of the driveway by the mailbox.. it gets so slick it can only be about a couple degrees but I've had to push my way out of blown areas with the SB to get out so hoping I could throw the chains on at times like that when I'm home alone to get the thing out of its own tracks.. I have 4x4 trucks and a tractor but the toolcat having no neutral (free wheeling) and weighing as much or more than anything else to pull it by myself without someone in the cab of the toolcat is USELESS.. I make sure I let it idle and warm up before I pull it out of the building as I cannot imagine what I would do if it gelled up like my ford tractor has a couple times.. that thing I just pushed into the garage with a truck and let it sit in a heated garage overnight then changed all the filters and re-primed the fuel.. don't feel bad on the temps.. it was -20F Saturday night with -5 the high on Sunday.. now today they are talking the low 30's.. go figure.. I'll make sure I get the inside slack wire tied off had to do that with the ford or it "clicked" on the fender support every time around..

My toolcat also lives in a pole barn. I have a concrete slab that said TC resides on. Since I keep chains on all winter, scarring the concrete can be an issue; however, I've found the antidote is to go to one of those "Ranch and Home" stores and buy several of what they call "Trailer Pads". These are also known as "Stall Pads". In any event, they are made from recycled tires and are tougher than nails. You can run your TC right up on those and not worry about leaving ANY marks on the 'crete. The Stall Pads sold locally are between 5/8" and 3/4" thick and can be hand in a couple of sizes (4x6 and 4x7). Heck, I even use these pads on the bed of my pickup. These pads are built to hold-up to shod animules...so they handle a chained TC without a problem.

The lady down the road (horse lady) uses ViseGrips as make-do handles to move these heavy pads and that works quite well. The pads are a bit unwieldy and have their own mind. I have not yet figured out a good way to cut a pad to size.
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #400  
Awesome thanks Spudgunner! A happy wife is a happy life!
 

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