ignition module

   / ignition module #11  
It seems that you need to take a long look at your spark generation. If your plug is intermittently sparking that is a sign of spark generation/timing problems. As stated earlier: If it has points, probably the problem. If it doesn't have points and your spark is weak, intermittent or just plain absent problem should exist between plug and mag, i.e. bad plug, bad plug wire or mag problems. I have had mags go in such a way that they would work until the motor developed heat then they would fail. This made me scratch my head because I was always told, "when mags go they go comlpetely." Good luck
 
   / ignition module #12  
<font color="blue"> I took out the spark plug with the boot still attached and cranked the motor with the threads touching painted metal. </font>

The spark plug threads should be against unpainted metal when cranking the engine to test for spark. If it's still intermittent messing with the carb isn't going to help your problem. You will first need to address why the spark is weak. Points, plugs, condenser, wires, and so on.
 
   / ignition module #13  
occasional spark could be caused by a bunch of things: the usual suspects, namely points, rotor, capacitor, coil, wires, caps, and plug. New plug so it ain't likely that.

I once diagnosed my father's 1968 Monaco (a big deal for me because I was only 14 or so) because it was getting dark and I spotted arcing. I can't remember if it was because of crud or cracks or a combination of both, but if you have a hard to diagnose ignition problem, consider checking it out at dusk.
 
   / ignition module #14  
Lots of good advice here. Does sound as an ignition problem.
Just one other area you may look at that is easily overlooked.
Make sure your key on the magneto is good (as well as the key ways) just the slightest indent on the key may be sufficient to throw off your ignition.
 
   / ignition module #15  
Well here's another overlooked thing about point type ignition. The condenser must have a good ground. If the little screw becomes loose or gets a little rusty under the condenser you will loose the path to ground and loose spark. Acts just like a bad coil. Make sure you have voltage to the points from the ignition switch. Might have a loose wire at the switch. Just a few more things to consider. Hope you get'er going.
 
   / ignition module
  • Thread Starter
#16  
thanks for all of the help. Has sent me out to the garage many times! I tried starting on fluid...huh. No start. With the carb off. Sounds to me like the ignition magneto needs replacing. I don't think it is points and condensor, because It is almost identical to the magneto on my 10 year old generator... Still confused...may just buy a new magneto...
 
   / ignition module
  • Thread Starter
#17  
IT WORKS!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Turned out to be the flywheel key somehow got sheared in half. VERY weird, because the engine didn't have ayn sudden load changes. odd. Problem now is, the key doesn't work at all. I replaced the switch, and nothing happens. I turn the key and the solenoid doesn't even cycle. Tried starting the motor by touching the two large posts together...no go. There are no safety switches either. I jumped the tractor by just going straight to the starter and...the engine started. Starter is good, key switch is good (unless I had two bad ones ina row). Now it seems my solenoid has ONCE AGAIN gone bad. What a waste of $16. any ideas? Oh, the wires are about 12 gauge all the way around. I do remember them getting warm when I cranked the motor over. The negative cable insulation has found a way to burn somehow. What gauge should I be using then? thanks
 

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