Ignition switch problem

   / Ignition switch problem #1  

sodamo

Super Star Member
Joined
May 20, 2004
Messages
17,148
Location
Big Island, HI
Tractor
LS XR4140H (Mine) BX2380 (wife’s)
CK30HST, nearing 400 hours. Had this problem before, but it went away for a bit. I thought it was a moisture problem, but now my baby sits under a nice roof.

PROBLEM: When I turn the ignition key on to the point when the glow indicator shows and hour meter shows, the point just before turning to start. Sometimes it doesn't engage properly. In other words everything might light momentarily, or maybe not at all. What the also means is that if I continue and engage starter, tractor will NOT remain running. I can hear various clicking and sometimes get lucky, but othertimes not.

SOLUTION: Any suggestions? Do I have a loose wire? bad switch? Something else? HELP

David
 
   / Ignition switch problem #2  
Had the same problem with my CK20hst and it was the switch. Changed it out and it works fine now. Only took about 20 minutes to change.
 
   / Ignition switch problem #3  
Just had the same problem with my Ck-20. Changed out the key switch and now back to normal. For a while, no glow lights, would not start, and at the end, the tractor would start, but I could not shut it off. New switch, 40 minutes of time, and all is well. When I took the lower panel off - surprise! Mouse nests. Why do they pee and poop where they sleep?

John
 
   / Ignition switch problem #4  
I would say the ignition switch has been a pattern failure item. Im not sure if the replacements are designed any different?
After disassembling mine that was bunk, I concluded the grease they use warms up and cooks things inside the switch...at least thats the story i'm telling :~}
 
   / Ignition switch problem #5  
I had the same problem on my CK30hst at about 370 hours. For a while I sprayed electrical contact cleaner in the key hole. That helped for a day or two and then it went back to intermittent contacts. I changed the switch and haven't had a problem with it since. Looking at the old switch I noticed it has screws holding it together on the back of it but I haven't had a chance to take it apart and look inside. I hope the new ignition lasts longer than the first one.
 
   / Ignition switch problem
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks Guys

Looks like I have to find a new switch and replace it.

David
 
   / Ignition switch problem #7  
Did any of you guys who changed your ignition switch have to take your steering wheel off and then dashboard off also?

I took my lower panel off today to try and debug my intermittent flasher problem (see other recent post by me). I found the flasher "box" is actually tucked up and to the left of the clutch pedal w/ a plug going to it, but I won't be able to get at the plug or flasher w/o taking dashboard off to make room (to expose) the flasher box and plug.

Would also like to test wires at the black knob that activates hazard lights.

I'm just worried about taking the dash off. Would the following procedure be right?

1. Use screw driver to pry off kioti logo on middle of steering wheel
2. Loosen nut or whatever under logo and remove wheel
3. Unscrew? black hazard light knob? or just pull it off extra hard? no instructions make it so likely I'll break something. then loosen nut that holds it snug to the hole through dashboard after black plastic part is remove and feed through the hole?
4. How about the fuel shutoff lever? Pull red knob off extra hard? Or unscrew it ?? Then, like hazard switch, loosen nut that holds it snug to hold it through dashboard?
5. Healight switch -- Unscrew that somehow? or pull it off extra hard or leave it an I have to unplug something from underneath once dash is loose?
6. Throttle lever -- I think that has just a set screw to loosen and pull it off?
7. Ignition switch -- haven't looked close at it yet, but want to minimize breaking it since I've never taken it apart and it works perfectly.

Then -- after all things are removed, so I just lift it off -- it appears the instrument panel will want to go with it -- are there a bunch of plugs I will have to unplug to free the whole thing once it's loose for which of course I will not be able to get my hands in there to unplug stuff?

As you can see -- I'm ranting a bit here because I called my dealer about a service manual, pleaded here for the part number of a service or shop manual I could order so I can get wiring diagrams etc, but I'm just not getting anywhere. There has to be some better documentation for this tractor beyond the small book that comes with it yes? I'd like the same documentation a mechanic at the dealer uses to build to tractor from a crate or service all of the components. I realize the dealers are probably trained regarding assembly, but there's got to be literature that goes with it yes?

Normally when I try to take apart something like a dashboard, all of the things that have to removed where it's not obvious how they come off get broken -- i.e. pulling extra hard on a knob -- oh, that doesn't seem to be how it comes off, ok -- turn it figuring it unscrews, nope -- snap -- now I have to buy a new knob xyz because of the trial and error approach I'm going to have to take with everything.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Some might be thinking -- who cares if the flashers / turn signals don't work... well I paid $16,000 for a machine that I do drive down the road every now and then and in Massachusetts by the farm law if you have an orange triangle and flashers, it's legal to drive up to 8 miles or something like that.
 
   / Ignition switch problem #8  
I feel your pain. Rick Wallace at Wallace Tractors appears to be the go to dealer to get stuff for a Kioti when your local dealer craps out on you. I'm sure they can fix you up with a parts and shop manual for a price of course. My CK30 shop manual leaves a bit to be desired but is better than nothing. The parts manual for the CK30 is pretty good but leaves out small parts here and there. If you are taking it appart you can always note any parts that don't show up. When I replaced the ignition on my CK30 I could do it without taking out the dash. I could reach up behind the dash and the pigtail connection made it pretty easy. Come to think of it before I changed the ignition switch I had some problems with what sounded like a blinker ticking after the ignition was turned off. The lights weren't flashing but the blinker was clicking. I don't seem to have that problem anymore so it could have had something to do with the ignition switch.
 
   / Ignition switch problem #9  
IS the problem caused by the fact you keep the tractor outside? I have a new CK20HST but I keep it in the barn. Should I expect having same problem?
 
   / Ignition switch problem #10  
Only outside time was on dealer lot as they didn't have indoor storage.

He told me March of '06 is when the machine was placed on the lot. I bought it in June, so it had about 3 months of outside time.

I stored in in my garage for the first year and now it's in my shed which is 100% weatherproof (25 year shingled roof w/ vinyl siding just like the garage).

Thats what irks me a bit about tractors ... I'm buying something "new" that is aged 3 months in the weather outdoors... and it shows it by how much the molded trim pieces faded in the sun along w/ wires going to what looks like a starter solenoid by the clutch pedal. Mine are "pink" when they were red before 3 months of time in the summer sun / heat.

Anyway -- the dash got coated in HST oil (a good couple quarts) when my tranny used to pressurize due to a clogged HST vent from mud wasp nest built in there while on dealer lot. (search for threads by me for details).

I removed the bottom cover to find plenty of dirt coating everything nicely under there since I'm guessing a lite coat of HST oil is on a lot of stuff below the dash since it took a bath in oil.

This is why I'm seriously considering selling the tractor and getting a unit that is built up indoors and stored indoors until I purchase it or wait for the dealer to assemble it. I would have to abandon my current dealer which means possibly a brand change also -- Kubota. Tim Ahearn is one of the best and my neighbor has a B7510 same age as mine w/ no problems. Now I know any brand can have issues .. I 've read the Kubota forums too, but I need good dealer support and there isn't a Kioti dealer in range that meets my requirements. I wish Keith Wallace was closer.

I find it interesting that Island Tractor traded up his CK20 for DK45se and I could be wrong, but I think he bought it from Keith Wallace. His CK20 dealer was the same as mine. There's a good sized Kioti dealer in RI that Island tractor could have used, but he chose Keith.

Tim Ahearn is for Kubota what Keith Wallace is for Kioti.

I like orange tractors... both Kioti and Kubota.
If you took a B7510 and put curved loader arms on it and widened the front axle to the same width as the CK-20 and I'd have one on order right now due to my frustrations with the history of my machine... I might change my tune if next year goes better and I still have the CK-20.

Yes I'm **** about my equipment. It's expensive, and I want everything on it to function as it was when assembly is finished by the dealer and all functions test and work correctly. I'd rather damage it running over stuff or operator mistakes rather than damage from leaving it outside, corners cut during maintenance (dealer didn't change my HST oil at 50 hours -- just filters and topped off the oil, unclear if he cleaned the metal off the magnet under the drain plug, probably not as the guy who answers the phone never actually asked the mechanic about cleaning the metal off the drain plug magnet).

Anyway -- I'm not happy. I like Kioti tractors, my experience hasn't been as good as I had hoped.
 
 
Top