Ignition Switch problem

[ualjack]

I know there have been many posts about this but here goes. My ignition switch (2nd one by the way) was not staying engaged and the tractor would die. I took the switch apart and cleaned it and reinstalled. now all detents of key clicked firmly but would not start. disassembled switch again checked each position with a meter to make sure they all had positive contact and reinstalled. now nothing turns on. checked all fuses and main 60a fuse, all good rang through with a meter. cleaned main ground wire from batt. to frame again. checked power at main 60a fuse and starter both 12.8 volts. I have no power at the connector with the ignition switch removed on any terminal. lights and hazard lights will not turn on. I have both a service manual and parts manual and service manual mentions a fusible link which I suspect but can not locate it in either manual. ??????? any ideas? the hazard lights should at leat be direct to the hot battery and I have absolutely nothing now. the wiring diagram in the service manual I bought is not very detailed.

 

[Billrog]

Can help much but for finding the fuse-able link look for a wire with a few folds in it taped up . ( chances are it's a red wire) What I've done in the past it cut them out and installed an inline fuse provided that's the problem.
Since there's no power to the switch follow the feed wire it should have the fuse.

 

[CCWKen]

Usually, fusible links are located where they won't damage other wire or parts if/when they glow and go up in smoke. Typically at the starter, power junction block and/or alternator. It would be an exceptionally poor design to have one within a wiring harness. They should be standalone and feel soft and flexible.

As far as the switch not working after you took it apart.... :confused3:

 

[ritcheyvs]

If all the contacts on the connector that feeds the switch are "cold" (no volts) but there is voltage at the starter then the 60 amp slo-blo fuse is almost certainly blown (or you have a wiring problem). That particular fuse is normally taped to the wire bundle near the starter, so you'll have to unwrap the tape to get to it. Most of the time fuses blow for a reason. So if you find that fuse blown, get more than one replacement.

By the way, what version of the DK45 do you have: original (like pre 2005) DK45, DK45s, or DK45se?

 

[ualjack]

I have a 2003 DK 40. No fuses are blown. power to the starter and at the main fuse. is the fusible link going from the starter control wire to the relay or past that and up behind the instrument console?

 

[Billrog]

http://83.206.20.45/ftp/éclatés piè...nuals/CK25-30M&H/CK30/CK30_WM_10_Electric.pdf
This may help

 

[ritcheyvs]

I have a 2003 DK 40. No fuses are blown. power to the starter and at the main fuse. is the fusible link going from the starter control wire to the relay or past that and up behind the instrument console?

What is this main fuse?

 

[ualjack]

the 60 amp fuse with 2 wires running to it between the starter and alternator. mine is closer to the alternator.

 

[ritcheyvs]

the 60 amp fuse with 2 wires running to it between the starter and alternator. mine is closer to the alternator.

OK. And you see 12v on both sides of that fuse?

 

[ualjack]

I have power at the 60 amp fuse. the wires from there to the instrument panel run inside plastic conduit from that point on. I was hoping to have an idea where the fusible link might be before I start tearing it all apart. ????

 

[ualjack]

i have power to all relays on engine side of the firewall too. ant ideas on fusible link location???

 

[ritcheyvs]

As far as I can tell, the fusible link is the same as the slo-blow fuse, which you call the main fuse. The old DK service manual leaves much to be desired. It refers to a fusible link several times in the troubleshooting section but the schematic only shows that 60 amp slo-blow fuse, not any kind of link. One contact for the starter relay and one for the glow relay should be powered at all times, same as the key switch. If you are really sure one start relay contact is powered but none of the key switch contacts are (only one should be), then you will have to open that wire bundle to see what's what. But double check your readings before opening anything (measure twice, cut once).

 

[ualjack]

I called a Kioti tractor dealer to ask about the location of fusible link. they said a foot from the starter, I tore all of the insulation off looking for the link with zero success. I don't have one. i went back to trouble shooting like I should have done in the first place and where my wire harness goes from the engine compartment into a tunnel behind the steering wheel near the floor is a vertical rubber panel on the outside of the tunnel and ringing the wires out to that point I had power on the engine side of the connector but zero beyond and found that a blade type pin in the connector (the main power wire of course) had corroded completely apart. just a coincidence that it happened after cleaning the ignition switch. maybe i pulled a little on the harness or something but is was corroded in two. spliced wire all ok.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I only recall one other case like this (internal connector failure) on TBN, and it too was hard to find. So good for you for finding it. I'd be interested in hearing how you decide to fix it.

 

[ualjack]

I used yellow covered male and female connectors and crimped them on in case I ever had to disconnect for some reason. the blade pin connector in the connector is very specific and would require you to buy the whole connector and redo the whole thing. I used a pin probe on my fluke meter to pierce the insulation through the wire checking for voltage along the run until I reached the point where voltage was no longer present.(the other side of the connector) when I pulled the connector apart you almost would not have noticed anything wrong unless you look at the backside of the connector and saw that a wire went to the center position because it was corroded off flush with the blade in the female half. I had to pick it out of there. I hope this helps.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Thanks. The fix (crimp-on bullet or spade connectors) makes perfect sense to me. You may know that hidden (inside insulation) battery cable corrosion failures plagued several Kioti owners. Seems likely that a similar metallurgy problem could effect connector pins.