IH 584

gcp · Jul 9, 2011

Good morning all,

After 4 years of working around my property with my little Yanmar, btw a great little tractor with absolutely zero failures all this time, I bought this new to me IH 584 on July 1. I washed, degreased and took care of filter cleanings already and it obviously needs a good paint job but thus far it appears solid. I bush hogged with it last weekend in the Alabama 95deg weather, and learned how to use its front end loader, a must have around a farm if you ask me. Here's a few pics of it.

This weekend I'll repair a few minor issues on it like rear wheel stem valve replacement, and then on to mowing the lawn with a finishing mower I picked up yesterday. Any particular issues on the 584s that one should be careful of?

slowzuki · Jul 9, 2011

The hi-lo-reverse shifter can get out of sync when old or if rough with it. The hydraulic pickup tube can fall off, if that happens you'll lose hydraulics on steep hills. The cure is to over fill the fluid until you get a chance to put the pipe back on. They're a great tractor!

cowski · Jul 9, 2011

them's good tractors .sure would look better with a roll bar.

gcp · Jul 9, 2011

Thank you for the input guys!

The stems have been replaced successfully, and the rear tires are now inflated at a solid 20psi.

But I do have a couple of leaks I would appreciate input on. Please see pics below as they depict them better than I can, verbally. I just don't know how to tighten this one fitting.

and here's anothe leak I can't locate due to the frame.

huskerhayman · Jul 9, 2011

I have an IH 684 that was leaking on the transmission housing the same place yours is. Mine was leaking from the brake balance valve. It could also be your master cylinders or the hydraulic cooler lines run through there up to your cooler. My guess is the brakes though. It is an easy fix and the rebuild kits are reasonable. For your other leak on your loader valve you can find the manufacturer on the valve and try to get a rebuild kit or take it off and take it to a hydraulic shop and the should have everything to rebuild it. Great tractors, you will love it.

gcp · Jul 10, 2011

slowzuki, thank you for your input but where is the hydraulic pickup tube located? How can a tube simply fall of?

cowski, that's the first thing I said also but the tractor mechanic said that this particular model is difficult to put roll bars on without a great deal of mods to the body.

huskerhayman, thank you for your input. I removed the side panels this morning to dig into this leak a bit further, the area was gummed up pretty badly so I degreased and washed off the whole area in hope of locating the leak. But how do I disconnect the loader hose for removal/repair? I know it's a stupid question but I've never played with hydraulic hoses and connectors before. And when removed is there a check valve that will prevent fluid from continually leaking out 'till the repair has been completed?

I have an additional question, what is this tall shifter used for? It seems to be locked in place so I don't see the purpose it ought to serve.

Thanks again for all your great inputs guys!

huskerhayman · Jul 10, 2011

When I looked at the picture of your loader valve again I looks more like the two quick disconnects on the top are leaking. You might clean it up good and watch and see if that is where it is coming from. If that is the case they are easy to change and you can get them at any ag supply store for pretty cheap. The silver collar on them should slide up and then they should pull off.

As for the picture of the lever you have posted is for your rear remote valve. The wing nut should loosen and swing out of the way. The little plate is just to hold it in position. In the picture it looks like it might have been modified to lock your remote on. Does your loader valve have two hoses that go to the back of the tractor and plug into the two quick disconnects?

gcp · Jul 10, 2011

huskerhayman, you are right, there are 2 remote quick disconnect lines in the back of the tractor. It now makes sense as to why this shifter's locked in place.

Yes, the leaks do emanate from the quick disconnects so maybe they are worn? It almost seems that when the tractor seats in the sun the heat makes the hydraulic pressure increase and that when the valves start leaking. Is this possible? Next weekend when I go back to the farm I'll disconnect the fittings per your instructions and see if I can have them fixed/replaced. Today I removed the cover and degreased/washed off the loader valves, there was all sort of what appears to be years worth of crud caged onto them.

I am glad I bought this 584, it appears to be a very solidly built tractor but it appears it'll be a work in progress before it becomes top notch once again.

cowski · Jul 10, 2011

there are o rings in the disconnects that can be replaced.

gcp · Jul 11, 2011

Now that makes sense, thanks cowski!

slowzuki · Jul 13, 2011

The pickup tubes just seem to vibrate loose. Our 584 had dropped its tube years ago, the 585 was still on. I agree, the leak on the bell housing is most likely brake related. The o-ring in the loader disconnects are likely leaking or the o-ring in the orb fitting screwed into the valve block. Cycle the joystick in all directions before trying to disconnect the loader fittings.

The remote lever is locked likely because people frequently knock it into detent position that loads the hydraulic system and heats the fluid up rapidly. Our neighbours ran theres a while like this before finally asking me to take a look.

gcp · Jul 16, 2011

Well guys, you were absolutely correct! The quick disconnect o-rings replacement of the loader did the trick so its 2 leaks down and one to go. But this final leak promises to be harder to fix as it appears to be emanating from a plunger in the front part of the brake master cylinder. It spins but does not unscrew. I'll take pics of the exact part and will post it.

Thank you for your advice!

gcp · Jul 17, 2011

Here's a couple of pics of the component that leaks. The disc at the center of the pic rotates in both directions, freely. The hydraulic fluid leaks from the bottom of this disk and it does not appear I have a way of tightening it in any way. As you can see it's kind of tight in there so I can foresee it'll be a real pain to execute the needed repair. The leak is not much now but I'm sure it'll get progressively worst. Could this have been caused by riding the tractor with the hand brake on?

gcp · Jul 18, 2011

After going through my shop manual I've discovered that the fluid leak is most probably coming from the bottom of the equalizer plate, that's the name of the disk I refered to above. I don't know if there's a seal in front of it that must be replaced, or what other part must be replaced if that's not it to solve the hydraulic drip but as I've mentioned above I don't believe it'll be a straight forward repair. Any input you may have will be greatly appreciated.

gcp · Jul 24, 2011

Well folks, as intimidating as it looked, I tackled the removal of the brake equalizer valve yesterday. It took me about 4 hours to remove it, due to removing a number of parts that ultimately didn't need to be, but hey I learned!

Here's what the valve looks like removed, it appears there are only 2 o-rings on the spool that could be leaking so I'll replace both. As you can see there are only 2 bolts that hold the valve into place so don't go removing the master cylinder bolts as they are a pain to get to and totally unnecessary to remove. I hope this pic helps someone.

As soon as that's done my 584 ought to be leak free :thumbsup:

SLHawkins · Jul 24, 2011

GCP,
Let me know how your restoration goes. Here is a picture of the IH 584 that I inherited from my uncle. What year is yours? I'll have to check, but I know that mine is a least 30. My uncle bought two of them brand new, one with a loader. I only have two speed left on it however. And, I have to clean the fuel lines. After it runs awhile, it begins to sputter and shut off. Sometimes, it'll run for a few hours, sometimes, only a few minutes. I have a straight exhaust on it, and boy does it sound awesome when it is out in the field working:thumbsup:. It has been neglected for the last 15 years or so. So, I am beginning to show it some TLC again. They are great tractors and I am sure you will enjoy it. Quite a step up from the yanmar though, isn't it? I used to have a yanmar 2210D and FX32D.

gcp · Jul 24, 2011

SL, mine is circa 84-86, I was told. Don't know exactly because the front end loader is covering the SNs and I'm not about to remove it for that reason alone :laughing:

I am glad you're giving yours some TLC, I am doing the same to mine, including painting all the pannels and hood I've removed thus far. If that works out next Sunday I'll paint the fenders next but since I've bever painted before I'm taking it slow.

Yes, a big step up from the Yanmar but I still love that little tractor, tough as nails!

Barry Bowen · Jul 24, 2011

If you can get all the leaks stopped, that is one heck of an accomplishment. Usually there are one or two that you will never get fixed. This is just the nature of the old good red iron. I probably loose a gallon or so a year on my 706 and maybe one or two on the 1066. It is just one of the simple pleasure of owning old iron, buying your hytrans in drums not bucket. By the way ONLY use Hytrans in that tractor. DO NOT even think about buying the junk at TSC or where ever. Hytrans is one of the very few trans hydraulic oils that is a 30 wt. It makes a big difference!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SLHawkins · Jul 24, 2011

gcp,
I wanna say mine is an '84, but I will have to check that. I see we have different fenders. Don't ask me how he did it, but my uncle managed to bust every light and bend the rear fender. So, after I get it running right, I am going to see about getting the fender straightened and then repair/replace all the lights. I have contemplated painting it, but if I do, that is a task for down the road. I would also like to find a nice 966 or 1066 to pull my chisel plow. Keep me posted on how your restoration goes:thumbsup:

gcp · Jul 25, 2011

Can someone please explain how this equalizer valve works? I can see how the 2 o-rings pictured would prevent the valve from leaking from either side of the valve but how do the ball bearings and springs control the hydro flow to equalize the brake presure?