ih 706 282 engine hp?

[succor]

Hey Barry, is it possible to test injectors myself and clean the tips or do I need a mechanic for this. This tractor is not getting enough fuel by the sounds of it. It runs nice but too lean I guess.

Cory

 

[AKwelder]

check out the Red Power forums, they run and breathe IH. They do a lot of mods for pulling competitions. And they also know what the mods are that you can do between different models.

 

[Barry Bowen]

No, you cannot test injectors yourself. It takes a machine that applies the PSI to the injector, and the mechanic watches for when the injector pops off and sprays fuel. Have you replaced fuel filters? Also mine is know to every so often, clog at the fuel outlet on the tank. Tractor still runs, but not well, and engine speed is erratic. With engine shut off, open one of the bleeds on your fuel filters. If no flow you have found a problem. I just blow back at the first filter with a little compressed air and it releaves the clog again. Then prime your filters again.

Here is the link for Red Power Mag, great IH site

Red Power Magazine

 

[succor]

Actually found a mechanic to come out and check the injectors for me. It's going to cost a little extra but than it's done properly. He's worked on these 282 engines. Filters are releatively new but it wouldn't hurt to do what you say Barry just to make sure. Gonna have the pump removed and calibrated as well.

Cory

 

[art]

When we do engine jobs the fuel system is rebuilt at the same time and we could only assume the compression is at least 365 lbs you can't get much more horsepower out of the pump or engine with it's design.

I would wonder with the 4020 at best 90 vs 75, 85 horsepower gets close to smoke! 8 speeds vs 16 speeds that you might have to go a little slower then the 4020 but not as much as if you had 90 horsepower with a 16 speed.

I've turbo'd them and for the amount of worth to you go buy a different tractor for much more power, the rods are small diameter compared to what they should be for a tractor.

 

[succor]

Had the mechanic out today, said it sounded good and was runnin good but got him to remove the pump to get recalibrated tomorrow to get a little more power. He will of course set the timing tomrrow so hopefully a stronger tractor.

 

[succor]

Got the pump put in and she's runnin good. Seems a little woke up now but I'll tell when I hook up my cultivator in the field. He didn't adjust the static timing on it as he said it sounded good. It's 4 deg btdc. IH book says tdc; any thoughts on this? Also lookin in the book, 660's are 5 btdc and 560's are 3 btdc all machines with 282 cu engines.

Cory

 

[sweet farms]

I run a Farmall 1206. The guy that rebuilt my injection pump told me that an older engine with a little wear may benefit from a 2 degree advance in timing. Seemed to help the 1206. The timimg on these old girls are pretty easy to change. You might want to play with it abit. I would not ****** it beyond the specs., only advance.

 

[succor]

Yes timing is very easy to adjust, almost too easy. I guess that's the nice thing about old equipment. I might try turning it a degree or two and see if it's better or worse. Only trying to maximize performance on the engine, not overwork it.

 

[succor]

See if this is normal, I can pull a 14 foot deep till with 3 row harrow cultivator behind in second high around 1700 rpm fairly well with the shovels in about 3-4 inches on farmland, good soil, fairly packed. I use the TA on slight hills to get me up on level again. Like I said it smokes a bit more now but not alot when working. Do you think this tractor is working around the 75-80 hp range? The fellow at the shop said if the pump has very little difference after it's been turned up, than it may require a complete rebuild. He has seen lot's of pumps idle nice but with no power under load. If this kind of pulling is normal than I'm done, if not, than more work is required.