ih 706 282 engine hp?

[succor]

Just wondering if I can get more power out of these units without a blower put on. I know one way is turnin up your rpm but is that it? What brand of blower can go on these tractors without too much coin?

Thanks

 

[oliver28472]

I guess you meant to refer to this engine as a 282 cubic inch diesel? Are you using this tractor for farming or tractor pulling. Some add a turbo and or have the fuel pump turned up. Maybe this tractor is too small for you. Please give more details.

 

[succor]

yes, it is the 282 cu engine. Power has been ok so far for pullin except for the occasional hill where I need the TA but will be curious with a front mount schulte snowblower this winter; originally was on a 4020. If I would have known what I know now I would have got the 806 but still am considering finding one and selling this tractor. If I can get a turbo kit cheap I would consider as well or fork out about 4000 for a good 806. I have read threads where guys were turnin up the fuel pumps to get about 85hp on these and were succesful but again I'm cautious on that. That's why I'm askin on this forum. The engine was overhauled about a 1000 hours ago and is runnin good and clean.

 

[RickB]

I'd be pretty careful about giving a D282 much boost pressure. If you take a look at this engine, the designers used more bolts to hold the manifold on it than the cylinder head. Doesn't take much abuse to pop a head gasket. IH did install turbos on the 282 in a couple dozer applications and as a special dealer installed kit on tractors that was billed for use in high altitudes only.

 

[succor]

Does anybody know of anyone who has a used turbo kit for this machine?

 

[Barry Bowen]

I have seen a turbo kit for a 282 on e-bay. It was all new and around 3K. As said earlier, it is not wise to put a turbo on a 282. You can turn the pump up, but you will not likely get to 85HP. On my 706, they turned it up 10% from factory so she is right around 80. It was turned up a lot more when I bought it, but it runs better now just turned up this amount than it did when it was way way turned up.

Trying to replace a 4020 with a 706, they are just not the same power. You may find an 806 for 4K, but it will likely be a total piece of junk. If you want to find something that will handle and really do the job find your self a nice old 966 or 1066. You can easily put a turbo on a 966, you just need to know to open up the oil jets down in the crankcase. If price is the big concern, find a new 986 or 1086. Because of the redesign that moved the cab forward, they do not bring near as much as a 66 will when sold. Once in a while I have seen a 1086 only bring 5K in the last few years.

 

[succor]

Hey Barry, if factory did it, it can't be that bad; 80 hp is better than 70, that would be about as far as I want to go anyways just to give it a little extra performance. I think there is 2 settings on the pump, external where the fuel supply is and internal where an allen screw is I think? Any other suggestions? As for a 1066, I've seen a couple up here for about $5-6000 lookin not too bad. Being short on cash, for now, if I can get 10 percent on a 706 without harmin it than I'm happy.
Cory

 

[oliver28472]

Better dyno it first to see what you already have.

 

[succor]

Talked to some diesel mechanics today and I might take the pump in to have them calibrate it for me for about a 100 bucks and they would turn the pump up 10 - 15 %. I figure with the manuals I have with some advice, I'm pretty confident to take the pump off and put back on myself. I did check the static timing of the pump to engine and noticed I'm 4 degrees ahead out when the book says I should be at tdc with the pump marks aligned. One mechanic said that is too much to be out so I will realign it proper unless otherwise specified. One other 706 owner thought it was odd that it aint smokin abit under load cause his does and it's runnin a big round baler with little trouble.

Cory

 

[Barry Bowen]

My old 706 leaves a nice thick trail of smoke when she is really working, mostly on the road or step hill with the discbine. The local shop turned it up 10% when I had the pump redone. You may want to have the injectors checked, but make sure you get the new set of copper rings to put them back in. They are really pricey to have rebuilt if they need it. I had one years ago that dropped a tip out of it and it was 300 to have one injector rebuilt. Testing should be a lot less. Keep a close eye on the temp guage when you push her hard. I had the biggest radiator core that fits put in last winter, 6 core unit, and it made a big difference in how long I can push it hard. Factory temp guage went out years ago, but the after market on hanging beside the glow plug guage does a better job anyway. Even turned up like this and pulling a 336 baler and wagons, she still only burns 2-3 an hour depending on the hills I have to pull.

 

[succor]

Hey Barry, is it possible to test injectors myself and clean the tips or do I need a mechanic for this. This tractor is not getting enough fuel by the sounds of it. It runs nice but too lean I guess.

Cory

 

[AKwelder]

check out the Red Power forums, they run and breathe IH. They do a lot of mods for pulling competitions. And they also know what the mods are that you can do between different models.

 

[Barry Bowen]

No, you cannot test injectors yourself. It takes a machine that applies the PSI to the injector, and the mechanic watches for when the injector pops off and sprays fuel. Have you replaced fuel filters? Also mine is know to every so often, clog at the fuel outlet on the tank. Tractor still runs, but not well, and engine speed is erratic. With engine shut off, open one of the bleeds on your fuel filters. If no flow you have found a problem. I just blow back at the first filter with a little compressed air and it releaves the clog again. Then prime your filters again.

Here is the link for Red Power Mag, great IH site

Red Power Magazine

 

[succor]

Actually found a mechanic to come out and check the injectors for me. It's going to cost a little extra but than it's done properly. He's worked on these 282 engines. Filters are releatively new but it wouldn't hurt to do what you say Barry just to make sure. Gonna have the pump removed and calibrated as well.

Cory

 

[art]

When we do engine jobs the fuel system is rebuilt at the same time and we could only assume the compression is at least 365 lbs you can't get much more horsepower out of the pump or engine with it's design.

I would wonder with the 4020 at best 90 vs 75, 85 horsepower gets close to smoke! 8 speeds vs 16 speeds that you might have to go a little slower then the 4020 but not as much as if you had 90 horsepower with a 16 speed.

I've turbo'd them and for the amount of worth to you go buy a different tractor for much more power, the rods are small diameter compared to what they should be for a tractor.

 

[succor]

Had the mechanic out today, said it sounded good and was runnin good but got him to remove the pump to get recalibrated tomorrow to get a little more power. He will of course set the timing tomrrow so hopefully a stronger tractor.

 

[succor]

Got the pump put in and she's runnin good. Seems a little woke up now but I'll tell when I hook up my cultivator in the field. He didn't adjust the static timing on it as he said it sounded good. It's 4 deg btdc. IH book says tdc; any thoughts on this? Also lookin in the book, 660's are 5 btdc and 560's are 3 btdc all machines with 282 cu engines.

Cory

 

[sweet farms]

I run a Farmall 1206. The guy that rebuilt my injection pump told me that an older engine with a little wear may benefit from a 2 degree advance in timing. Seemed to help the 1206. The timimg on these old girls are pretty easy to change. You might want to play with it abit. I would not ****** it beyond the specs., only advance.

 

[succor]

Yes timing is very easy to adjust, almost too easy. I guess that's the nice thing about old equipment. I might try turning it a degree or two and see if it's better or worse. Only trying to maximize performance on the engine, not overwork it.

 

[succor]

See if this is normal, I can pull a 14 foot deep till with 3 row harrow cultivator behind in second high around 1700 rpm fairly well with the shovels in about 3-4 inches on farmland, good soil, fairly packed. I use the TA on slight hills to get me up on level again. Like I said it smokes a bit more now but not alot when working. Do you think this tractor is working around the 75-80 hp range? The fellow at the shop said if the pump has very little difference after it's been turned up, than it may require a complete rebuild. He has seen lot's of pumps idle nice but with no power under load. If this kind of pulling is normal than I'm done, if not, than more work is required.