IH F14

[***pappy]

It’s an IH Harvester 1938/39
I for the life of me I can’t find any place to check the oil
There is no information that I can find on the amount of oil the engine takes or
the transmission.
Is ther anybody familiar with one of these old tractors

 

[Farmer495]

Are there two petcocks on the side of the oil pan? You open the top one and see if oil runs out. The old IHs didn't have a dipstick.

Looks like you F14 was an original rubber tractor from the wheels.

You might might some owners on redpower

 

[***pappy]

How to move the rear wheels in on an F15
I took all the bolts out but I don’t know how to remove the keys

 

[Tractor Tech]

My uncles had one in a barn on the family ranch. I never saw it run, but always wanted to get it from my cousin. He sold the ranch before I could and the tractor disappeared.
Glad to see you putting back in service

 

[DJ54]

How to move the rear wheels in on an F15
I took all the bolts out but I don’t know how to remove the keys

How to move the rear wheels in on an F15
I took all the bolts out but I don’t know how to remove the keys

A picture would REALLY help... This is strictly testing my memory from 35-40 years ago. There should be bolts that go clear through to clamp the wheel to the axle. Other bolt(s) that only go part way through that you turn in to spread the keyed side away from the axle to widen enough to be able to move the wheel. Thereshould be no need to remove the key.

Some good penetrating oil would definitely be in order if it hasn't been moved in years. A 50/50 mix of Acetone, and transmission fluid has been my go to penetrant for years since discovering it. Mix in a dish detergent bottle so the Acetone won't evaporate. Just give the bottle a quick shake before using, and you're good to go. I used Kroil for years, this works better. Buy a quart of each just to try it. I did, and now buy Acetone by the gallon,and ATF from Rural King in 2 gallon jugs so it's always on hand. Give it a good squirt 2-3 times a day for several days to let it work in.

Some Never-Seize on bolt threads would be a good idea, for just in case you'd ever want to move them again.

 

[***pappy]

A picture would REALLY help... This is strictly testing my memory from 35-40 years ago. There should be bolts that go clear through to clamp the wheel to the axle. Other bolt(s) that only go part way through that you turn in to spread the keyed side away from the axle to widen enough to be able to move the wheel. Thereshould be no need to remove the key.

Some good penetrating oil would definitely be in order if it hasn't been moved in years. A 50/50 mix of Acetone, and transmission fluid has been my go to penetrant for years since discovering it. Mix in a dish detergent bottle so the Acetone won't evaporate. Just give the bottle a quick shake before using, and you're good to go. I used Kroil for years, this works better. Buy a quart of each just to try it. I did, and now buy Acetone by the gallon,and ATF from Rural King in 2 gallon jugs so it's always on hand. Give it a good squirt 2-3 times a day for several days to let it work in.

Some Never-Seize on bolt threads would be a good idea, for just in case you'd ever want to move them again.

 

[DJ54]

Atta' boy, good to have pictures to refresh one's memory. Run bolts in the threaded holes to push it apart. I wouldn't go more than an 1/8 of a turn at a time and keep even pressure. I'd have to guess less than 2 complete revolutions on each bolt, should spread it enough to slide. Just watch for gap between axle & hub and know when to say when. When you get a slight gap put some penetrating oil in and let it soak a bit. I'd probably rotate the keyway down to relieve any binding on it, then shake the wheel from the top, in and out, maybe a sharp rap with a sledgehammer on the tire top & bottom to help break it loose. If it won't move, maybe another 1/4 turn on each bolt, and try again.

Looks like you got the hard part done getting the one center bolt out. Just curious, are those 40" wheels/tires?? My F-12 has 36" tires, on spoked rims but seems I've seen 14's with 40's. I'd imagine those are getting hard to find anymore, and if you so, they'd be pricey.

Keep us updated..!!

 

[***pappy]

Thanks
The tires are 12-4-40
I also have to find a cylinder head

 

[DJ54]

Found the OEM part number, but you can find it cast in the head under the valve cover. P/N I found was 5643-D. Did a search using Google and got a lot of hits, but only a few pertaining to a cyl. head for the F-14. Pretty pricey if they still have them.

I'm guessing yours is cracked. Might check to see if a machine shop can fix it. One I saw that was reconditioned, was right at $1,000.00 U.S. Just a thought.

 

[***pappy]

Mine is not cracked it has a fair size hole which cannot be repaired