IHC Farmall Cub
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timb
Veteran Member
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- Southwest PA
- Tractor
- Deere 4710/reverser, JD 318 (still needs TLC), JD LT160
Around here Cubs and "A's" are very popular - most folks want a lot more than that for a good running copy.
Bear in mind the Cub engine is not as easily rebuilt as the larger IH/Farmalls (no separate sleeves) so I'd pay especially close attention to compressoin readings, oil smoke and the like - and ask the seller if it's already been rebored oversize.
Bear in mind the Cub engine is not as easily rebuilt as the larger IH/Farmalls (no separate sleeves) so I'd pay especially close attention to compressoin readings, oil smoke and the like - and ask the seller if it's already been rebored oversize.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Mar 11, 2002
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- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
If it does indeed run good.. that's a good price.
I paid 2495 for a good runner that had hyds, a belly mower, and front blade.. decent tires and paint.. was a 66 model, 12v genny from the factory, and distribuitor ignition.
There will be a tag on the steering pedestal that has the sn.. with that you can 'date' it.
Areas of concern ar the steering box.. it can crack.. and leak.. not much to do but weld or braze then fill with grease, unless you want to replace the casting.
Check the play inthe steering, check the oil in the final drives..the cork gaskets usually get dry and leak.
Check engine.. make sure it has enough power to do what you want.. they only had about 9-14 hp from the factory anyway. Might have an original cub IH carb.. or could have a A or 154/184 replacement zenith carb. Repar kits for the carbs ARE available
Check the hyds.. if it has them.. they are pretty bullet proof though as it is more or less a self contained unit.
Also.. check for radiator leaks.. the radiator is a funny job.. cast pedistal and thent he core fits in it...
Here's a pic of mine:
Soundguy
I paid 2495 for a good runner that had hyds, a belly mower, and front blade.. decent tires and paint.. was a 66 model, 12v genny from the factory, and distribuitor ignition.
There will be a tag on the steering pedestal that has the sn.. with that you can 'date' it.
Areas of concern ar the steering box.. it can crack.. and leak.. not much to do but weld or braze then fill with grease, unless you want to replace the casting.
Check the play inthe steering, check the oil in the final drives..the cork gaskets usually get dry and leak.
Check engine.. make sure it has enough power to do what you want.. they only had about 9-14 hp from the factory anyway. Might have an original cub IH carb.. or could have a A or 154/184 replacement zenith carb. Repar kits for the carbs ARE available
Check the hyds.. if it has them.. they are pretty bullet proof though as it is more or less a self contained unit.
Also.. check for radiator leaks.. the radiator is a funny job.. cast pedistal and thent he core fits in it...
Here's a pic of mine:
Soundguy
lhfarm
Veteran Member
Here in central Indiana, I think that price might be a little high. But as stated, a lot depends on conditions and options. I have a '64 Cub Lo-Boy that was my mowing machine and light snow plow. Even though I moved to a ZTR mower, I keep it around for mowing trails and doing light work (like lawn rolling). They are great old tractors.
Soundguy - How are you rigged so you can have your blade and mower mounted at the same time? My tractor came with a rear blade and belly mower, but I add a front blade later. I've always dropped the mower in the winter and mounted the blade.
Soundguy - How are you rigged so you can have your blade and mower mounted at the same time? My tractor came with a rear blade and belly mower, but I add a front blade later. I've always dropped the mower in the winter and mounted the blade.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Mar 11, 2002
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- 51,575
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- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
My rockshaft from the hyds has a rod down to the front blade, and a chain down to the mower. Raising the mower lowers the blade... lowering the mower raises the blade.
Soundguy
Soundguy
lhfarm
Veteran Member
Mine is the same setup, although I believe the blade frame blocks the mower. After seeing your picture, I am going to take a second look. Maybe I just assumed the two wouldn't fit. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I like the blade for light grading of my drive too and it would be nice to leave it mounted.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Mar 11, 2002
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- 51,575
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- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
My mower is an IH mower. it has two 'legs' that run to the back and attach where the drawbar bolts are, on either side of the final drives., then it is supported in the middle by two chains that converge into one, and then attach to a hanger ont he rock shaft. The mower thus pivots on the rear legs.
The blade pivots on a rod thru bushings in a square tubing under the front pedistal, and has a top attach point where a lever is attached with a free rotating pin. The end of that curved lever attaches to a top connection on the hyd rocker, also on a free rotating pin. The bracket the blade mounts on is thus fixed, and can not interfeer with the front of the mower going up. If the mower went up that higk, the drive pulley would surly be touching the oil pan, etc.
Mid you this is a home brew setup. that top curved lever is a piece of flat, bent, then with a stiffener welded along the flat. The stiffener is cut into about 4 sections, each bent, and welded on, to make it around the outer circumference of that bent lever.. etc.
I wouldn't push hard material with it.. but should be fine in snow.. etc.
Also serves as a great 'stump' guard when mowing.
Soundguy
The blade pivots on a rod thru bushings in a square tubing under the front pedistal, and has a top attach point where a lever is attached with a free rotating pin. The end of that curved lever attaches to a top connection on the hyd rocker, also on a free rotating pin. The bracket the blade mounts on is thus fixed, and can not interfeer with the front of the mower going up. If the mower went up that higk, the drive pulley would surly be touching the oil pan, etc.
Mid you this is a home brew setup. that top curved lever is a piece of flat, bent, then with a stiffener welded along the flat. The stiffener is cut into about 4 sections, each bent, and welded on, to make it around the outer circumference of that bent lever.. etc.
I wouldn't push hard material with it.. but should be fine in snow.. etc.
Also serves as a great 'stump' guard when mowing.
Soundguy
lhfarm
Veteran Member
Didn't mean to steal the thread. I have the IH mower as you describe, except I have an L-shaped piece that mounts on the rocker shaft and it lifts a single chain. The blade is a factory setup, except for the push-down rod which was missing when I purchased the blade.
I just dropped the blade off this weekend and was going to take the sub-frame off. I may try mounting the mower with the subframe in place. The only issue may be that I have used ramps and just driven over the mower to get it mounted. The frame may prevent that.
I just dropped the blade off this weekend and was going to take the sub-frame off. I may try mounting the mower with the subframe in place. The only issue may be that I have used ramps and just driven over the mower to get it mounted. The frame may prevent that.
twinstackram
Silver Member
My Dad just got a 49' for $1500.00,It needs a little work tires are fair,has the cultivators,
If the tractor has good rear tires,runs good,not a lot of oil leaks,probably not to bad,and if the metal is good,really means alot on a cub because the hood and gas tank are one.
nice little tractors,fun to drive,but boy there is a huge difference in the wide front ends and the narrow,boy the wide fronts are work to drive compared to the narrow.
If the tractor has good rear tires,runs good,not a lot of oil leaks,probably not to bad,and if the metal is good,really means alot on a cub because the hood and gas tank are one.
nice little tractors,fun to drive,but boy there is a huge difference in the wide front ends and the narrow,boy the wide fronts are work to drive compared to the narrow.
