I'm Getting A New Roof - Anyone Have American Building Components SL-16 Metal Roof

   / I'm Getting A New Roof - Anyone Have American Building Components SL-16 Metal Roof
  • Thread Starter
#11  
As a remodeling contractor, I deal with roofers and bad roof jobs all the time. After foundation repairmen, roofers are the most dishonest people in the industry. It's very hard to find one that doesn't take advantage of clients, or cuts corners to get the job done as fast as possible.

First, talk to at least five different roofers before hiring anybody. The bigger companies rely on super friendly sales people to get you to sign a contract. It's proven that most people sign with the person they like the best. Some times you need to talk to more then five. There are a lot of roofers out there, which means there are a lot of crooks out there.

If you go with metal, be sure to get the thickest metal that you can. There is some stuff out there that is as thin as a soda can, and there is some out there that will still be keeping out water 100 years from now. Be sure that all your bids are for the same thickness of metal. And then make sure that's what they are installing when they start the job!!!

When getting the bid, make sure that everything is removed down to the decking. Some will want to leave the old tar paper on and then cover over it. The decking has to be inspected and repaired where needed. Know what type of decking you have. Solid pine 1x6's and other sized is very common in older homes. It's always full of voids that need to be fixed. There is always some boards that have broken and need to be replaced. If it's plywood, make sure it can be used again. Plywood likes to blow out on the underside and a lot of the time, it's a one time use material. It needs to have another layer put over it if it's really bad, or the bad pieces need to be replaced. OSB can usually handle a second or third roof pretty easily since the nails only poke throw it and don't tear it apart like they do to plywood. It should still be inspected because if there was a leak anywhere, it's the worse at falling apart.

All of the flashing and vents need to be removed and replaced. A ridge vent is by far better then any other type of vent. The higher the vent is in the roof, the more air it moves and the dryer your attic will be.

If going with metal, be sure to double check with the manufacturer on what type of underlayment is allowed under the metal. There are options and the only way to get your warrantee is to use what they say has to be used. Do not rely on the installer to use the approved material. Same thing with shingles, but they are usually more easy going and just about any standard underlayment is fine with them.

If using shingles, make sure that the nails are at least an inch and a half. I personally use 1 3/4 inch nails. The nail has to go all the way though the decking to hold the shingle in place. It's the shaft of the nail that holds it in, and if they use short nails to save a buck, the shingles will fall off in a wind storm. Staples are even worse and will tear the shingles. Never, EVER allow staples to be used on shingles. Also be sure to look at the package to see how the nails are to be installed, and how many. Sadly, most install crews don't speak or read English and they are told to use as few nails as possible. It's a small thing, but these guys are crooks and if they can do the job with one less box of nails, they will.

Valleys, vents and chimney flashing are where most leaks start. Skylights should be thrown away and sealed up. They always leak, it's just a matter of when. Depending on what you use, be sure that a proper valley is installed before the shingles or metal are installed. Be sure to have this in writing on the bid!!!

The bid needs to have everything in writing. What they like to do is give you a price. Lets say it's $20,000 to do the job, but it doesn't actually say new flashing, new vents or 1 1/2 inch nails. Or anything else that I mentioned. They just give you a price and it's better then the other guys, and the salesman is super nice. Then when the crew shows up, they do what they want and you never know what you are getting. Five or ten years from now, the roof fails. They blame something else for the problems and you are stuck with a bad room that will need replacing again. Crooks are great at not fixing what they do wrong. Get every single step and material used in writing, and be sure to inspect everything that they do. I've been hired to inspect roofs as they are being installed because this is such a common issue. Even with me there, I've caught all sorts of issues that they tried to cover up.

Lastly, do not feel pressured to hire anybody right away. Time and research is your friend. Only commit when you are 100% sure that you have found the best company to do this.

Thank you Eddie. I agree about the sky lights - we will remove and roof over. Mine has not leaked, but in the winter I get a stream of cold air coming down the 8' box from the bathroom ceiling to the skylight window making the bathroom the coldest room in the house. The house was built in 1985, so I have plywood decking on the house, garage and shed. The barn has 1x6 decking which is in very poor shape.

My plan is to go with a local roofer, not a roofing chain. We were flooded by the out of state companies who came in after the storm, re-did a ton of roofs and then disappeared. I know a roofer at our church, so I am going to have him bid as well as a few others.

Will the 50 year shingles really last 50 years, or is it all marketing hype, and you'll be replacing the roof in 30 year at your cost?

BTW, love reading your pig story. Is that little guy now the huge one in your profile picture?
 
   / I'm Getting A New Roof - Anyone Have American Building Components SL-16 Metal Roof #12  
I had a new metal roof installed last spring.
I got 4 estimates and found a local guy with his own metal machine that he said he had to get certified to legally install panels.
He showed me the machine and the work area was very clean, machine had computer controls, set length, push button and it rolled out the panel, cut it and dropped it on the collection table where they picked with forklift to staging area.
My home took 38 squares and needed some roof deck repair to plywood.
Estimate included, deck repairs, new evedrip, ridge cap and stack flashing. Under $10,000.
Old roof only had minor leaks at bad decking so we agreed to repair and leave the one layer and cover it with synthetic felt. (legal here)
They predrilled the panels on the ribs (roofer said engineers recommended) and 3 guys installed in a couple days.
It has a 25 year warranty on the metal.
It took 5 weeks for him to get to my roof, he is busy.
Try to find someone with their own machine, he was $2-3000. cheaper than the other estimates.
He even sells wholesale to local supply stores.
Color is called "Galvalume" and house was cooled this summer!
 

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   / I'm Getting A New Roof - Anyone Have American Building Components SL-16 Metal Roof #13  
Roof-newbie here: I'll NEVER have another metal roof. Bought a house with a 7 y/o metal roof. Looked good, but develops leaks with every new rainy season. So far I've spent about $7K on "repairing" it. And don't let anyone tell you they'll last 50 years - that ain't gonna happen. Maybe they don't "rust", but they will rot. And leaks are near impossible to trace; worse than a flat gravel covered roof!

I'll just stay with the old tried and true shingle method in the future.
 
   / I'm Getting A New Roof - Anyone Have American Building Components SL-16 Metal Roof #14  
We have well known established roofers here in my area. They all charge by the square. I was fortunate to get a jobber to just charge me labor. I bought the materials. He was recommended by a local builder. Saved some serious coin. Had a few roof boards replaced, new ridge vent installed, and all new flashing around the chimneys. I was fortunate.

My house is brick and looks better with architectural shingles IMHO. These have a 30 year warranty. I have no idea if they will last that long but at 20 years they are holding up fine so far.

My biggest concern with metal would be the installation. Don't know that many installers around my area that does it. The metal roofs that have been installed have not been down that long. Just not a long enough track record. The added cost over a typical roof to me is a tough one to swallow also.

Eddie's advise is spot on.
 
   / I'm Getting A New Roof - Anyone Have American Building Components SL-16 Metal Roof
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Roof-newbie here: I'll NEVER have another metal roof. Bought a house with a 7 y/o metal roof. Looked good, but develops leaks with every new rainy season. So far I've spent about $7K on "repairing" it. And don't let anyone tell you they'll last 50 years - that ain't gonna happen. Maybe they don't "rust", but they will rot. And leaks are near impossible to trace; worse than a flat gravel covered roof!

I'll just stay with the old tried and true shingle method in the future.

Thank you Gem. Was your metal roof a hidden fastener roof? Is it shallow? Those are the two issues most common with metal roofs leaking. What did you determine to be the cause of the leaks?
 
   / I'm Getting A New Roof - Anyone Have American Building Components SL-16 Metal Roof #16  
BoylermanCT - both not hidden fasteners and shallow. Worst of both worlds.

I've had one section totally rebuilt to gain slope, but I still have leaks in that section. Roofers in my area talk a good story, totally unskilled in roofing, rarely any insurance and never a license.

Last contractor I had out claimed to have a license; turned out to be a floor tile license. And his insurance was his car insurance. Welcome to Georgia!
 
   / I'm Getting A New Roof - Anyone Have American Building Components SL-16 Metal Roof #17  
Hidden fastener roofs require decking to support the metal. The roofs that I've seen done on residential houses have all be very thin. From a distance I've seen hidden seam roofs going up on a bank and was surprised at how stiff it was while they where getting it up onto the roof. Must have bee a lot thicker metal. All the metal roofs that I've personally installed have been 3 foot wide R panels that easily span 4 foot purlins and haven't required any sort of decking.

With metal roofs, the quality of the screws is huge. It's all in the rubber that's used to create the seal. Then it's all about how tight they are when installed. The rubber should just barely bulge. Over tightening will create a leak because the rubber will break.

Hidden fastener roofs do not have the same issues with screws because the fasteners are outside of the area exposed to the rain. If there is a leak, it's from a valley or the flashing. Sadly, I've seen some very poorly done vent pipes that caused all sorts of damage that I've been hired to repair while the roofers keep coming back to fix what they did wrong. I have another job like that this month to fix from a shingle roof that wasn't flashed properly against the chimney. They refuse to fix it, so now I'm going to redo what they did wrong.
 
   / I'm Getting A New Roof - Anyone Have American Building Components SL-16 Metal Roof
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I emailed my insurance adjuster asking his opinion on ABC metal roofs and GAF Timberline HD shingles. He had very good things to say about ABC, and his advice was get the thickest metal possible. He also said the Timberline shingles were a very good choice if we go that route.

GAF has a cool feature that allows you to look up the address of houses in your area that have the color and style shingle you are looking at. There is a house 5 miles away that has the color and style shingle we are considering as plan B, so we will do a drive by this weekend.

I think my next step is to start doing exact measurements on the roof so I can get firm materials cost for the different buildings. My plan is to buy the materials myself, and hire the contractor on a labor basis. I've done that with other projects like fencing and new windows, and it seems to come out in my favor when I do that. Now if the weather will cooperate so I can get on the roof without freezing. I was just in Charlotte on business, and it must be nice to have sunny 60 degree weather in January. We won't see that until May!
 
   / I'm Getting A New Roof - Anyone Have American Building Components SL-16 Metal Roof #19  
I've done all my roofs for 35 years... tear-off, sheathing, double felt, flashing, eve and ridge vents.

Starting out I had almost no money... first roof I did was in 1982... use 20 year 3-tab over double coverage 30# felt... still good but showing age... zero leaks or repairs... hand nailed each single.

As time when on I spent better on shingles... the last several roof I went with Presidential... there were also HOA considerations... if the 20 year have lasted 35 the lifetime should be just that... at least this is the plan.

I think many skimp on the details... both material and time to do it right.

Some have said double coverage 30# felt is overkill... but the extra rolls of felt did not add much to the material cost...

Dad was always frugal and we kids knew it... one thing he did not skimp on was roofs... and pretty much any job you were doing for yourself... like good quality paint, extra sack of cement in the concrete mix... etc.
 

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