I'm No Crook!

   / I'm No Crook!
  • Thread Starter
#21  
I'll most likely turn the gearbox around if the pully will remain in the same posission so's I dont have to change anything about the pully system,
I really dont think that slowing the mower down to 1100-1200 rpm's of the PTO is going to be that significant, although I am curious as to if these type mowers have to be run at high rpm's such as 2200 to cut grass? or if in fact this is the top cutting speed? and they can in fact cut at a lower speed?
I know I couldn't imagine cutting grass at 2200 rpm's with my 17 hp B&S intek- 42" ridding mower, this engine would sling appart in 10 minutes, on the average I cut grass at half throttle which I think is around 1100-1200 rpm's.
although I have never used a commercial type mower so i really have no idea how and at what rpm's they run at......
 
   / I'm No Crook! #22  
:)my cocern would be the gears on the tractors pto what yr. is the mower i have seen sometimes the need to have a costom gear built, but for ten bucks you can afford to get one made costum built awsome purchase .
 
   / I'm No Crook! #23  
On my F16d, the book stated the 3rd speed was 1:1, "Engine speed".

In my owner's manual for the 1510D it states that the PTO turns "540, 1000, and engine speed."

I really think that it will work fine. i agree that the gear box should be turned 180 and make a 3 pt connection and you will be in business. Boy do I wish that I could find something like that here for twice or 3x the money!! Great find.

Mike
 
   / I'm No Crook!
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I cleaned up and removed all unnecissary parts on the deck and give closer look to what will need to be done for the 3 pth conversion, if I leave the gearbox as it is and weld to the end of the existing driveshaft the slipjoint
that will go to the PTO then I would not have to have a shaft made up,
I have an old overide clutch that I can take apart to use the spline to weld onto the driveshaft and this will make it just the correct length, ......
although if I were to reverse the gearbox then a much longer driveshaft will have to be made up, with further contemplating I notice that the discharge shute tunnel is really not that much directional, in fact when looking down on it, it would at most have perhaps a 22/25* bend at center, half of the deck 30"is directed towards the front and the other half is towards the rear, so it forms a very shallow 22* bend, I also found a painted over tag that is attached to the gearbox that reads ( 1100 03 ) whatever this means? .... I do think I'm going to at least try first pulling it as it would be in reverse see what happens?;)
 
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   / I'm No Crook!
  • Thread Starter
#25  
if it doesn't work I could always do this to my tractor :D
 
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   / I'm No Crook! #26  
Any chance it could be mid mounted with a couple pulleys and a jack shaft in the back to transfer power?


Dean
 
   / I'm No Crook! #27  
I also bought a 60" jd mmm for $15.00 from a salvage yard. No particular reason other than parts or to resell. It looked too cheap to leave and I thought about converting it to a rear mount... but the rpm difference had me stumped. Oh well... I have the unit.
 
   / I'm No Crook!
  • Thread Starter
#28  
I also bought a 60" jd mmm for $15.00 from a salvage yard. No particular reason other than parts or to resell. It looked too cheap to leave and I thought about converting it to a rear mount... but the rpm difference had me stumped. Oh well... I have the unit.
Good deal for you as well :)
when I get all my other projects done and behind me, I'll start on the Mower 3 pnt conversion but I'm thinking won't be until next year:D and when I do I'll get it hooked up, then I'll let you know if the lack of the RPm's does effect its cutting by much ;)
 
   / I'm No Crook! #29  
Since it is coming up on the holidays, I won't turn you in either...$10, gee whiz, ought to be a law against deals that good!
I agree that you ought to turn the gearbox around, despite needing a longer pto shaft. I think you will be happier with it pulling in the normal cutting direction. However, I would probably do just what your doing, in order to see how well it does before spending the money on a longer pto shaft. Just don't do anything that will make it "permanent" until you decide that you like it and are willing to buy(or come across) a longer shaft. Changing out the pulley on the output side of the gearbox is a fine way to increase blade tip speed, and if your tractor has the torque, it will handle it fine, otherwise, get a bigger tractor to pull the mower, until you have convinced SWMBO that a bigger tractor is required. Turning the gearbox around won't have any affect on the direction of rotation of the mower.
David from jax
 
   / I'm No Crook! #30  
A drop shaft from the center pto and a long driveshaft would be the easiest. A brace, couple pulleys, and block bearings would be involved. One could even gear it up a bit through the pulleys so the engine wouldn't have to run at full 540. I know my Deere sucks more fuel at 2k vs 1400. The noise level is alot less also.
 
   / I'm No Crook! #31  
A drop shaft from the center pto and a long driveshaft would be the easiest. A brace, couple pulleys, and block bearings would be involved. One could even gear it up a bit through the pulleys so the engine wouldn't have to run at full 540. I know my Deere sucks more fuel at 2k vs 1400. The noise level is alot less also.




Why not just change the pulley on the mower so you don't have to worry about it ever again, and you can use it with any tractor? If you can't locate a pulley with the correct hub size and design, then just bolt one to the bottom of the existing pulley and put spacers under the gearbox housing to align the belts up.
David from jax
 
   / I'm No Crook!
  • Thread Starter
#32  
I've been using the mower deck I converted into a 3 pnt. finish mower quite a bit this season, 60" of cutting gets the job done a bit faster then the 42" deck on the wifes Cadet,;) plus she stopped cutting the lawn, and giving me a choice I'd rather be on my more comfortable yanmar than that cub mower,:D
anyway the point of me reviving this thread is to let everyone know that this "converted mower deck has been working out well" and for anyone who has had the same thoughts to try and make one them selfs its not really that difficult, Note this mower deck was from a retired commercial Zero turn type mower, so it already had a shaft driven gearbox, after I rigged it with a 3 pnt hitch I needed to come up with a way to connect the drive shaft to the PTO of the tractor, I happen to have an old pto overrun clutch adapter that had went bad, so I cut it open and used the inner part by welding it to the spline/yoke of the drive shaft, though I had to use a bolt directly through the new overrun clutch to hold it in place, Not to worry the overrun clutch along with the belt on the mower will provide enough protection to the PTO if ever were to run over something resulting in the mower jamming up,
I though I was going to have to find 2 more wheels for the front side of the deck, although cannot be seen in the photo but on the under side of the deck there are 2- 12" x 3" rollers that keep the deck at just the right height to cut the lawn ;) I do have the pully covers, I just removed them so could point out it is a pully driven mower deck with only but 1 belt that drives all 3 blades,:D
 
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   / I'm No Crook! #33  
It looks great. I'm glad that it worked out for you! :thumbsup:
 

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