I'm not proud of what I've done, but I'm happy

[CalG]

Sounds good to me! I ran new wires with switches bypassing the old electronics on my mower to operate the starter and blade engagement. Nothing wrong with improvising to save a few (or in this case several) dollars! :thumbsup:

I was considering fitting a momentary push switch that would energize the fuel cut off solenoid. A simple press of the button would shut down the engine , then just turn the key to off to kill the instrument panel.

But that would mean drilling a hole and fitting the button, running TWO electrical wires to "somewhere" that eventually get's 12 volts to the shut off solenoid. The more I thought about it, the more I liked the "one wire" (filler rod) solution.
And because it's copper coated, it shouldn't rust right away.

The Fordson has taught me well. Iron first, then steel if appropriate. rubber holds in fuel and air.
Heck, the Fordson has cast iron front wheels, a magneto, and had a start handle hanging off the front until I fitted the snow plow and needed an electric self starter because there was no room to swing the handle. I still shut her down by closing the fuel petcock and waiting what seems like a very long time to empty the float bowl. ;-) I could enjoy some assisted steering however. My arms aren't as strong as they once were. ;-)

 

[Steave]

So instead of spending $600 on an electro-magic black box, I spent 35 cents and went "retro". Ahh The good old days! ;-)

Since you saved almost $600 the next round of refreshing drinks are on you. Mr tractors won't run unless I have something tied up with baling wire. Now that I think of it a lot of folks have never used baling wire. It goes along with a pitch fork and a self contained baler you pull to the field then crank it up, pitch in the hay then tie up the bales with wire. I wouldn't actually call those "the good old days though." Lotta hard work.

 

[paulfun9]

What is there not to be proud of? I have two tractors that I have bypassed the solenoids on and they only would have cost $179. each. Just cant justify paying for something that doesn't need to be there when the fix only costs about 5 dollars for a used choke cable. I figure the cable could break on them about 71 times and I would still be money ahead!