I'm open to suggestions at this point

   / I'm open to suggestions at this point #1  

PineRidge

Super Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
7,595
Location
Northeast, Ohio
Tractor
LS-MT242HC
Recently the wife and I opened a store within Hartville Market Place and herein lies our problem. We have no inside space for a stock room to replenish merchandise that is sold through the day.

We started by loading the SUV to the gills with excess merchandise but it's just not handy loading and unloading when the store is closed. Nor is it an easy way to find an item that may be at the bottom of the pile.

I have begun to research closed trailers that can carry a rolling inventory that will be readily accessed as needed throughout the day. And since I have very little knowledge of closed trailers I am counting on some of you that may be using just such a trailer yourself.

Here are some of the options that we think to be of importance but are not absolutely necessary:

dual rear doors instead of a ramp, that swing open for easy loading purposes.

A 32" wide side mounted man-door.

2 interior lights w/switch.

3500 pound axle.

Light curb weight.

Tongue jack.

A way to lock the coupler mechanism when trailer is not coupled to the car.

3/4" plywood floors

I would like to have an interior width of at least 68" and a interior length of somewhere around 11 feet with an interior height of 78".

Roof vent.

Breakaway kit.

15" 6 ply tires.

Exterior DOT lighting with side marker lights.

How important are things like front stone guards? coupler ball size?

When and where do electric brakes become necessary?

Don't think we need a ramp or dropped axle since most of our packages are about the size of a toaster and a bit heavier.

I'll most likely need to build some shelving within the unit for organization.

Is there anything else you guys recommend or dis-like in a trailer?
 
   / I'm open to suggestions at this point #2  
Mike, as to when trailer brakes become necessary, there are lots of opinions, but one old federal recommendation was to require trailer brakes any time the weight of the trailer exceeded 40% of the weight of the tow vehicle. Not a bad recommendation in my opinion.

You mention a 3500 pound axle (singular). Now I certainly don't know for sure, but when you talk about 3/4" plywood floor, building shelves (and of course they need to be built to keep the merchandise from falling off the shelves when underway), and an enclosed trailer which means walls, roof, and doors, plus the merchandise, the weight starts adding up pretty fast. Maybe a single axle is enough, but I wouldn't bet on it.

You may also want to consider a trailer with shock absorbers. I don't know how important they will be for your merchandise, but I learned long ago that I wouldn't want an RV without shocks.

Almost any RV supply place will have locks for the coupler when the trailer is not coupled to the car.
 
   / I'm open to suggestions at this point #3  
I would suggesr trailers brakes be considered necessary.Needless to say you have to stay within tow capacity of your vehicle.

A google seach will give you lots of hits.

How far doe the trailer have to travell or could you provide permanent storage on site?
 
   / I'm open to suggestions at this point #4  
I bought a Pace 6x12 + 6" height single axle cargo trailer several years ago. Use it for furniture & misc HH goods. Put tiedowns along walls & floor with sheetmetal screws. Have moved several complete households with it & no tiedowns have pulled out of the studs.

Works well, I would recommend a ramp rear door - simplifies mass loading and unloading. Dropping the ramp is fast as opening doors plus no climbing.

The interior lights are run on the tow vehicle lighting circuit. Unless you add a separate battery.

The 6' inside height makes for catching a lot of headwind when moving. My worst mileage was 4 mpg across Iowa.

A double axle will carry more and ride smoother if that matters.
 
   / I'm open to suggestions at this point #5  
Mike,

What's the capacity on your hitch and on your vehicle ?

Better make sure that whatever you are looking at your tow vehicle can pull it, loaded.
 
   / I'm open to suggestions at this point #6  
I have a 6x12 extra high with double doors single axle, and it has been very handy. You will be everyones friend when you own a pickup and trailer. Somebody always needing something hauled.

If I ever buy again it will have two axles with brakes, the single axle seems to bounce a lot and it is very easy to get to the trailer weight limit, and 3500 lbs will push you more than you expect when caught by suprise when stopping.

Good luck
PeterT
 
   / I'm open to suggestions at this point #7  
Mike, I order all my truck boxes with transluscent top panels. 2 lights will make your eyes hurt. A transluscent fiberglass top plus 2 lights will make it easy to see whatever you are looking for.
 
   / I'm open to suggestions at this point
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Egon said:
I would suggesr trailers brakes be considered necessary.Needless to say you have to stay within tow capacity of your vehicle.

A google seach will give you lots of hits.

How far doe the trailer have to travell or could you provide permanent storage on site?

Egon I'm assuming that if one gets a Breakaway kit the trailer will have magnetic brakes. I'm also assuming these same brakes can be connected to a brake module mounted under the dash, is this true?
 
   / I'm open to suggestions at this point
  • Thread Starter
#9  
BarryinMN said:
I bought a Pace 6x12 + 6" height single axle cargo trailer several years ago. Use it for furniture & misc HH goods. Put tiedowns along walls & floor with sheetmetal screws. Have moved several complete households with it & no tiedowns have pulled out of the studs.

Works well, I would recommend a ramp rear door - simplifies mass loading and unloading. Dropping the ramp is fast as opening doors plus no climbing.

The interior lights are run on the tow vehicle lighting circuit. Unless you add a separate battery.

The 6' inside height makes for catching a lot of headwind when moving. My worst mileage was 4 mpg across Iowa.

A double axle will carry more and ride smoother if that matters.

Barry I'm going to consider both a ramp and a double axle, thanks for the recommendation.
 
   / I'm open to suggestions at this point
  • Thread Starter
#10  
rswyan said:
Mike,

What's the capacity on your hitch and on your vehicle ?

Better make sure that whatever you are looking at your tow vehicle can pull it, loaded.

Randy the SUV has a Hidden Hitch. I'm sure it's a class II, rated at 3500 pounds GTW & 300 pounds TW.

Toyota recommends trailer weight not exceed 3000 pounds for the Highlander. It is already equipped with the trailer prep package.
Gross combination weight (trailer & load) 8485 pounds.
So if my math is correct I can safely stuff 5485 pounds of weight in a trailer weighing no more than 3000 pounds. This should cover our needs nicely with margin to spare.
 

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