Importing and modifying a new mini excavator from China

[dfkrug]

On testing the pressure settings for a dual-crossover (cushion) valve:

The way to do it cheaply, without installing a high-pressure tee fitting at the end of the valve stack (power-beyond), is to first put a gauge on the AUX hose, as I showed above. Then operate the house motor in both directions with the bucket jammed into the ground, while simultaneously operating the AUX valve lever.

Note that a PB port on the main valve stack may not even be available.

I have not done this yet.

 

[D'oh]

Wow, your Cushion Valve might be the exact thing I am needing for the Steering Circuit on my Traner WL.

Hard stop turning stops the engine.

 

[dfkrug]

Wow, your Cushion Valve might be the exact thing I am needing for the Steering Circuit on my Traner WL.

Hard stop turning stops the engine.

Interesting machine. You should start a thread about it.

I see 2 differentials in the vids. Does it use a hyd cyl to articulate the center? And a dry foot clutch to motate?

Makes me think of the Kubota R320 articulated loader.

 

[Edd P]

In photo 130138 relieve the bend in the hose a bit otherwise the insert will cut through the inner tube with use.

 

[D'oh]

Yes, 2 steering Cylinders, Pivot in the Center. The wheel attaches to the Steering Valve. 2 Big Diffs, 3 Speed Transmission/Transfer Case that is Dry Clutch Belt Pulley Driven. (Weak Point)

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It wouldn't be a weak point if it were geared lower, it seems fast in 1st for working, and scarry fast in 3rd for travel. So I am thinking on a way to tone it down a little. Best I have come up with is a Idler Reduction Pulley, because the Drive Pulley is already as small as it can be, and the Driven Pulley holds the Clutch.

Or, just add a Hydraulic Motor and Second Pump, Feathering Valve for speed

 

[JohnnyB24]

My house motor cushion valve is installed and working well.

Looks like a nice mod. Anything to smooth these machines out and minimize stress is a good thing.

I finally headed to the lake place and did some serious digging with mine, it worked great except I thought the boom was awful jerky so I added this flow control valve to try to smooth it out. Worked well in slowing it down and limiting maximum flow and speed of the boom lift without losing power. The downside is the RV actuates more now but it's worth it.

Mine seems to have pretty good control of house rotation but I need to concentrate on making a smooth stop.

 

[dfkrug]

Worked well in slowing it down and limiting maximum flow and speed of the boom lift without losing power. The downside is the RV actuates more now but it's worth it.

Keep an eye on your oil temperatures!

Any reason that you have not flipped the boom cylinder around to provide more protection for your hoses, and new valve?

 

[JohnnyB24]

Keep an eye on your oil temperatures!

Any reason that you have not flipped the boom cylinder around to provide more protection for your hoses, and new valve?

The way they welded the hardline to the boom cylinder makes it tough to turn around. I hear you though, so far I have just been careful but I may add a cylinder guard like the on my backhoe.

I have added thermometers for hydraulic temp and engine compartment temp, I'm running it with the rear door removed.

I still think the real answer for me is less flow. The machine just runs like a dream when the fluid is cold right after startup and a little above idle, It just gets jerkier as the fluid warms up and flow increases.

If I did go with a smaller pump, the cylinders moving slower would be good, and of course the pressure would be the same but what effect do you think the reduced flow would have on my track drive motor power? Would the torque be the same and just move slower or would I lose power as well?

 

[dfkrug]

The way they welded the hardline to the boom cylinder makes it tough to turn around.

So, the hardline hits the boom when turned around? I have plenty of clearance.

 

[JohnnyB24]

So, the hardline hits the boom when turned around? I have plenty of clearance.

It was about 1/4" short of clearing when turned around and no way would it fit with the new flow control valve installed. You can see that cut off support post in the picture, it used to be as long as the unmodified one.
To make it fit after flipping the cylinder around, I cut the hardline support post and bent the pipe it so it allows the valve to clear without touching anything. It was a tight fit and I plan to carefully reweld that post next time I get my welder out.

I really do like the ability to slow that boom down a bit or you can open the valve up and it works just like it did originally.