Improvements to Existing Attachments

   / Improvements to Existing Attachments #1  

BobRip

Elite Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2004
Messages
4,591
Location
Powhatan Va.
Tractor
2000 Power Trac 422
I am sure that people have found issues with the existing attachments. Let's see what suggestions we can come up with.

The attachment that I have had the most trouble with is the rough cut mower. On my first use one of the blades hung up on the center hub. PT recommended that I put additional bolts in the empty holes to keep this from happening. I have done this and it helps, but I have still had bolts break, both the added bolts and the bolts holding the blades on. Also the bolts work loose. This is not a major problem, but a nuisance. I had a Kubotoa tractor and never had problem one with this. I think PT can do better.
The wheels also have been a problem. I have put inner tubes in the front wheels and have not had a flat tire in three years. The rear wheels I added grease fittings to and this has helped, but a rock flew out and broke a chunk off of one wheel. I know a brush cutter can take a beating, but overall it should be built for this. Maybe others here have some additonal suggestion. I think the back up bolts need a cushion to slow down the blade that is kicking back. I have not found a good solution for this.

I welcome any additonal comments on the brush cutter, and on other attachments.

Bob Rip
 
   / Improvements to Existing Attachments #2  
Bob,

I agree with your concerns about the mower engagement. I think the "real solution" to the problem you describe is a PTO valve that can be gradually opened and closed, instead of an electric solenoid that is merely Off and On. If you could gently bring the blades up to speed by slowly opening the valve, most of this would disappear...

As far as other improvements that immediately come to mind, based on owners' mods:

1. A better set of controls for the Aux PTO -- either a button on the existing joystick control or another lever on the left of the steering wheel.

2. Reversing the rotation on the stump grinder and putting a deflector on it....

3. A folding thumb for the minihoe. that can be folded back out of the way when not needed....

4. Real toothbars for the buckets instead of individual teeth....

5. Safety chains/deflectors for the back of the rough-cut mower

6. "Level bucket indicator" for the QA plate on the tractor so that it would work with any QA attachment...

7. Stronger "fingers" on the grapple bucket so they don't bend as easily
 
   / Improvements to Existing Attachments #3  
Wow, KentT. I figured I was the only one that had bent the fingers on my grapple bucket within my first couple of days of use! Nothing serious but surprised me somewhat, considering the bulletproof way all PT stuff is built.

Already reversed the stump grinder. I'm glad that PT now manufactures it so that it is very simple to change the rotation. It does make me wonder why it doesn't come that way stock. Don't those guys at Tazewell try different combinations or methods?

The "level bucket" thing is something I've been doing 'mind-engineering' on for months. I hope someone can figure out an easy add-on for this.

The mini-hoe "thumb" will be a great addition as soon as one of us designs an easy plan.

Your other suggestions are good too. Kinda like a Christmas wish list!

Phil
 
   / Improvements to Existing Attachments
  • Thread Starter
#4  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Bob,

I agree with your concerns about the mower engagement. I think the "real solution" to the problem you describe is a PTO valve that can be gradually opened and closed, instead of an electric solenoid that is merely Off and On. If you could gently bring the blades up to speed by slowly opening the valve, most of this would disappear... )</font>

<font color="green"> </font> Kent, you can bring the speed up slowly if you throttle the engine back, engage the PTO and then throttle back up. Clint Blake suggest running the PTO at low engine speed and then the engine stalls if you hit something. I was thinking that if you had a relief valve on the mower set to cut the power at a lower pressure. Then when you hit, something the mower would be better protected.

I like your other ideas. The thumb should be real simple. Hey PT, put a thumb on the minihoe. Thanks.

Bob Rip
 
   / Improvements to Existing Attachments #5  
Bob,

Even at idle, I get a loud "bang" when I first engage the rough-cut mower...

I still think a valve that would let you slowly apply the flow would work much better.
 
   / Improvements to Existing Attachments
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I could see how it would help, but my failures have come (at least I think), from hitting something like a stump. You can see the dent in the back of the blade when they impact.

If you had a seat adjustable bypass aorund the blade hdraulics then you could set it with a lot of bypass for start up and also when there is more danger of hitting something. If you were mowing a large field with heavy grass and little likely hood of hitting something, but you need full power, then you could set it high. So your idea sounds good.
If sounds like something that could be retrofit, although making it adjustable from the seat might not be as easy.

Bob Rip
 
   / Improvements to Existing Attachments #7  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I could see how it would help, but my failures have come (at least I think), from hitting something like a stump. You can see the dent in the back of the blade when they impact.

If you had a seat adjustable bypass aorund the blade hdraulics then you could set it with a lot of bypass for start up and also when there is more danger of hitting something. If you were mowing a large field with heavy grass and little likely hood of hitting something, but you need full power, then you could set it high. So your idea sounds good.
If sounds like something that could be retrofit, although making it adjustable from the seat might not be as easy.

Bob Rip )</font>

Actually, if your running the brush hog at low rpm's your more likely to be hitting things and grounding out which is a lot worse on the mower than hitting things. These blades hang quite a bit until they get up to speed.
 
   / Improvements to Existing Attachments #8  
Speaking about grapple I called Pt Last week to see if I could modify either my Lg materail bucket or rock bucket to a grapple and they said it could be done. But they would not sell me the parts to make it myself or sell me just the grapple attachment to weld on my bucket. So I bought an after market one from Hla that welds on the back bucket and has 4 thumbs on it with two pistons instead of one piston from PT. The price was $1100 delivered . Just wondering why Pt refused to sell me the grapple I just don't have the need for 3 buckets /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
   / Improvements to Existing Attachments #9  
The brush hog is proabably the most dangerous attachment on any tractor. Large, heavy blades swinging around hitting things. I lost a rear wheel due to hitting a hidden piece of metal. I lost a blade due to hitting a hidden rock. I lost another blade due to hitting another hidden rock. They all broke the bolt that holds them to the hub. I had to disassemble the hub to remove the bolt stubs and install new ones. If it is any consolation, I lost just as many blades and broked just as many things on my conventional brush hog on our conventional tractor.

I have done two mods to the brush hog...

One, put in bolts with an extra nut in the open holes to act as stoppers to the blades when they back-swing. Our blades kept hopping the stop bolt and getting stuck on it. By adding a nut against the bolt head before inserting the bolt, it extends the bolt down another 1/2 inch and has solved that problem. I believe Fourteen made that suggestion and it works very well.

Two, I have put in longer bolts for both the blade bolts and stop bolts. Long enough so that about 1 and 1/2 inches sticks out inside the hub, past the nut that is welded in there. This allows me to put two jam nuts on the backside of each bolt. It keeps the bolts from working out, and, as an added bonus, it allows me to be to be able to get the bolts out easily from the backside of the hub if I snap off the bolt heads. Just drop the hub and use a wrench to back the broken bolt out from the backside.

If you ever have ocassion to remove the hub on the brush hog, take the time to change these bolts and add the extra nuts as have mentioned. It really makes the next time much easier. Hope this helps.

As for the teeth...
I found them to be usefull for large rocks and gravel but useless in hard soil, until.... I sharpened them per Fourteens suggestion. Just touch them up with a grinder and they work great.
 
   / Improvements to Existing Attachments
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Moss, thanks for the commments. The brush hog definately takes a beating. One my friends says that they commit suicide periodically and he ends up replacing the whole unit. Of course he does this commerically.

When breaking the bolts, I have drilled a small hole in the bolt and then used an easy out to back it out. The bolts were loose and came out easily. It sure beats dropping the hub, which is what I did the first time.

Do the longer bolts get caught on anything? Sounds like a good idea if they don't.
Take care,
Bob Rip
 

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