daTeacha
Veteran Member
Yeah, I noticed that. Wonder how it managed to fit under the size limit?
In a quandry
- Thread starter JagAlfaOwner
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hazmat
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2002
- Messages
- 4,051
- Location
- West Newbury, MA & Harrison, ME
- Tractor
- Kubota L5460HSTC
My experience with my TC18 & rear blade is that you are not going to be able to plow any appreciable amount of snow UP that hill. Down will work great.
The best tool for the job is a blower, but I even have trouble pushing that up my hill if the snow is particularly "slippery" (like when its near 32F). Downside to the blower is $$$.
The best tool for the job is a blower, but I even have trouble pushing that up my hill if the snow is particularly "slippery" (like when its near 32F). Downside to the blower is $$$.
Right Click on picture, choose "view image". Should fit the photo to your screen. Makes it a lot easier to see.Doc_Bob said:Widest picture I have ever seen on TBN. I had to scroll from side to side to see it all
Bob
Nice scenic area!
I use the rear blade on my tractor to plow an ashphalt driveway with no damage to the pavement. Remember, road crews do this all the time using both front plows and grader blades below the truck. What road crews usually do with the blade under the truck in tilt the top of the blade really far forward so that it acts like a scoop instead of a blade.
Unfortunately, you can't tilt the blade as far forward as you can on a truck blade. Secondly, the rear blade on a tractor floats downward by itself unless you set the hitch lever control stop up far enough so that the blade is barely touching the pavement.
But you can do several other things. One is to adjust the top link to tilt the top of the blade back (brings the bottom edge forward & "up" slightly), so that it does not dig in. You're resting the blade on the back edge of the blade instead of the front.
The second thing you can do is turn the blade around 180 degrees so that the curved side is forward. Turning the blade "backwards" works just fine for 1-6" of snow. Using it backwards, you would want the top link adjusted so the implement is level.
Unfortunately, you can't tilt the blade as far forward as you can on a truck blade. Secondly, the rear blade on a tractor floats downward by itself unless you set the hitch lever control stop up far enough so that the blade is barely touching the pavement.
But you can do several other things. One is to adjust the top link to tilt the top of the blade back (brings the bottom edge forward & "up" slightly), so that it does not dig in. You're resting the blade on the back edge of the blade instead of the front.
The second thing you can do is turn the blade around 180 degrees so that the curved side is forward. Turning the blade "backwards" works just fine for 1-6" of snow. Using it backwards, you would want the top link adjusted so the implement is level.
daTeacha
Veteran Member
By messing with the top link length, you can get the blade tipped pretty far forward, meaning the top edge is ahead of the bottom edge with the concavity toward the rear. In this orientation, it will tend to roll the snowover and sideways with a good angle on the blade. The leading corner will tend to dig in if you don't have it level with the drive surface and make contact.
It's been my experience with a back blade that it works best on snow when angled pretty sharply. This cuts down the width of the path you clear but moves the snow more easily to the side instead of piling it up in front of the blade and under the tractor. Any way you use it, though, a back blade is not an ideal snow removing tool. A front blade beats it all to heck and back.
It's been my experience with a back blade that it works best on snow when angled pretty sharply. This cuts down the width of the path you clear but moves the snow more easily to the side instead of piling it up in front of the blade and under the tractor. Any way you use it, though, a back blade is not an ideal snow removing tool. A front blade beats it all to heck and back.
PineRidge
Super Member
I feel like I'm watching a wide screen movie on that picture. Over 1200 pixels wide....
ccsial
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2005
- Messages
- 1,678
- Location
- NorthWest Illinois
- Tractor
- (Kuboto L3400) (Ford 1900 4WD w/FEL) (Deere X748SE) All bought new
John Deere sells rubber blade edge. It is about 1/2 thick. I have it on my blade and it works great. It has been on for 5 years now and not worn out. No marks at all on the blacktop.
daTeacha
Veteran Member
schmism said:
Not really. A front mounted blade designed for snow will roll the snow quite a lot more than a typical back blade. In addition, you can place it more accurately with the steering wheels closer to the blade and you get mor traction from your tires going forward than backward.
Finally, and a big item to a lot here, you don't need to be twisting around to see what's going on. With the cold weather associated with snow plowing, that can add up to chronic pains in the back, shoulders, neck, etc. Ask the man who has them.
I'm working on mounting my rear blade on the FEL as near as possible to the ends of the forks. I would much rather have a front snow blade designed for the task, but I'm kind of on the cheap side sometimes.
