In floor heating?

   / In floor heating? #1  

B7500

Platinum Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2002
Messages
666
Location
Tupper Lake, NY
Tractor
Kubota B7500 HSD
Because our property is at lake level ( dug down with the BH and the water table is about 3') a full basement is out of the question. I have two options a 4' crawl space or a slab. If I went with a slab I'd put in-floor heating. Anyone have any experience with it and if so how do you like it?
Thanks,
-Terry
 
   / In floor heating? #2  
Terry, my experience is limited to an area of my folks home. It is a wonderful heating source to live with and I think the most comfortable I have experienced. There are a few draw backs as I see it. If you want central air you still have to run a duct system so the over all cost goes up. The radiant heat can work under any finished floor but works best with tile and there have been reports of problems with wood floors. It can be done with wood floors just make sure you do your research if that is a floor finish you want.

MarkV
 
   / In floor heating? #3  
With wood floors, the flooring has to be quite dry when laid since the infloor heating can dry it further. We had no problems with flat-sawn red oak, 3/4" x 3 1/4". Wide plank flooring may be a bigger problem. We had concrete poured about 3" thick for the heating system in our last house. We had Australian Oak (eucylyptus) which did shrink slightly more than the red oak but it was still OK. Our concrete dried about 3 months (with heating system running the whole time) prior to laying the wood flooring since the flooring contractor was somewhat nervous. If you plan to have infloor heating over a crawl space make certain that the subfloor is insulated on the crawl space side. Also be certain to have a good water vapor barrier on the ground and excellent air ventilation. Otherwise the insulation can get very wet due to condensation and rob a lot of heat from the infloor heating. We ended up adding a french drain around most of the house and ducting the roof downspouts through inground piping to a creek 40 ft from the house. We also had an attic fan installed that pumped attic air into the lower level crawl space to help dry it during wet season. Had no condensation problems after these measures.
 
   / In floor heating?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks JTD for the info. How do you install wood flooring (which we want to do) over concrete? How is it attached?
-Terry
 
   / In floor heating? #5  
Terry, check out these links wirsbo and watts . The Wirsbo site has a tab for Architects and includes quite a bit of detail.

As for wood, narrow is good to prevent shrinkage. The issue is called 'booking' where the wood pieces stick together and magnify the shrinkage in one joint instead of spreading it across the whole floor. For example if you have 6 joints all shinking 1/32" ...that's not too bad, but when the floor 'books' the six boards stick together and the crack becomes 3/16" wide.

Engineered floors both laminate and real wood made from plywood are best because they don't move that much. I have a Mannington oak floor over my radiant. Its 5/8" thick, includes a real oak wera layer that is supposed to be able to be re-finished. Its super-stable.

The other advantage to the engineered floors is that the don't have as high an R factor which will delay the heat from working through the finish floor. Avoid rugs if at all possible. The pads are like an insulating layer over your heat source.

As for the system in general....Comfort is the best, but the cost is a big upfront investment. The other drawback is that the systems are slow to recover if the house is cold. You can't really set the temp back at night because it may take a few hours to get back up to temp in the morning.
 
   / In floor heating? #6  
I built my house & did all the radient heating and everything by myself. It is pretty straightforeward, especially if yo do some backgound research. You can save $$$$$ doing it yourself, even if you don't want to do the boiler & etc. like I did.

With respect to earlier comments, it does take time to heat up a slab so if you want to save money with a setback it doesn't work, unless you are thinking of going away for a few days (then you'll need a while to get back up to temperature). On the other hand, most of what I read said it is more efficient because you don't need a high thermostat setting to be comfortable since its usually your feet that get cold first - much more of a problem with forced air than radient.

Basically the first thing to do is plan it all out. Depending on where you are, the size of the house, number of zones and so on, it can get pretty complex (lots o loops). But with a small house, you can get away wth one or two. In fact my mainfloor & basement are 8000 sq feet and I got by the first winter heating the basement zone only ('twa a mild winter).

Make sure your slab is on top of min 2" styrofoam insulation on top of gravel. There must be poly between the concrete and styrofoam or it'll crack like crazy. Use 6" steel mesh reinforcing and use this to fasten the PEX pipes to with tie wraps. Pex is usually 6" on center around the perimeter, then 12" OC elsewhere.

There is a good layman's book on the subject I can find if you want. Also, I can walk you through the entire process step by step, but that would be best done off line. Its not that hard after all - I ain't that bright & I got it to work the first time.
 
   / In floor heating? #7  
<font color="blue"> Its not that hard after all - I ain't that bright & I got it to work the first time. </font>

I love that line. It reminds me of something I heard a long time ago when I asked a young guy who was working for me if he'd ever installed siding because I hadn't. He hadn't but was sure it was something we could do. His rationale?

"It can't be that hard. Guys who do it for a living just don't look that smart." /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / In floor heating? #8  
I was out of town the week the floor was laid so I don't know exactly what was done. I do know that they laid at least one layer of t&g subflooring plywood over the concrete. Not certain how it was attached. Final flooring was conventionally blind-nailed. DIY suppliers (Radiantec, etc) can supply you with the information on proper installation. On my current house under construction, my general contractor will probably use his crew to install the radiant heating. We'll probably use Radiantec or another company (TBD). Currently we will install it in selected areas (basement, bedrooms, bathrooms, etc). My wife loves this heating system. But then she likes a warm house and had me install a central masonary fireplace (Tempcast unit) in the center of the basement and main floor. Heating won't be a problem in SC. We'll use the infloor heating to maintain local floor temperatures.
 
   / In floor heating? #9  
&#65279;Well it is finally cold enough for the floor radiant heat to be used
I have a 30 x 48 garage with the radiant heat and it seems to be working fine.

My set up is using 2 zones with 1, 40 gal hot water tank PER zone.

Doug
 
   / In floor heating? #10  
Doug,

Your going to love the in-floor. I installed it in my house including the garage and I even have ice-melt out side with it. I keep my garage at 50 degres and you can go out and lay right on the floor in a T shirt and be nice and warm. The kids love it on the floors, they lay right on it watching TV. (concrete floor typically cold with a normal forced air system) Wife just love the ceramic floors in our bathrooms in the morning. No cold feet. We are installing more and more of it around here.

murph
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2013 MAXEY TRAILER MFG UTILITY TRAILER (A53843)
2013 MAXEY TRAILER...
Electric Mobility Scooter (A54815)
Electric Mobility...
2017 Ford Explorer AWD SUV (A51694)
2017 Ford Explorer...
2016 John Deere 326E (A47477)
2016 John Deere...
2016 Autocar Xpeditor T/A New Way Side Loader Garbage Truck (A51692)
2016 Autocar...
FORD 1900 TRACTOR (A51247)
FORD 1900 TRACTOR...
 
Top