In the market for my first tractor

[clevalley]

Outside of all the sound advice from above I think one of the most important aspects of buying a tractor is the dealer. If you get a bad vibe from walking into the showroom and talking with a salesman go elsewhere. If the dealer takes the time to talk about their product and support this is showing interest in the customer.

I have walked out of dealerships because the salesman only wanted to give a price. I wound up with Mahindra because the local dealer asked what the intended use of the tractor was and my budget. They did not try to up-sell me and gave me some options on my wants, budget and majority of tractor tasks being accomplished.

Also, a good gauge is the knowledge of the salesman - ask questions, even ones you know the answer to so you can see what the knowledge level of the salesman.

The 3550 is a stout machine - I ended up with a Cabbed 2555 HST because most of the work is mowing fields (cab with A/C and radio) and loader work (HST is so much smoother).

Best of luck, but pick your dealership first.

 

[rScotty]

I would add a rear blade to this list. Very useful in dirt, gravel, and snow.

Yes, but they differ. For the loader, you want one that is made specifically for that tractor - by the tractor manufacturer if at all possible. It will fit best, matches your hydraulics, give you the right visibility, places the bucket at the right distance from the front of the tractor, and any decent loader will have a full length frame so that the load is carried on the axles. This last point is important. Get a bucket with SSQA if at all possible.
So for the loader you should expect to just bite the bullet and buy the best one for the tractor. An awkward loader is no fun at all.

Now as for the rotary cutter, box blade, and grading blade - those are way easier. These are all standard 3 point mount implements and you'll find that old used beat up ones work just exactly the same as brand new. They are for sale everywhere and you will find them in most every rural farmer's old iron pile. I'd expect to pay a few hundred dollars each and accept some rust and dings.
luck, rScotty

 

[WV birdman]

I'd say you are over-thinking this and that the problem is simply being a novice. My advice is to cure that before spending huge dollars.
Consider simply buying any good used 4wd loader tractor in good shape in the 35 to 50 hp size with the expectation of using it for a year or so while gaining understanding of what features are important to you. Then go looking to spend real money for a new machine. Don't worry, whatever you get will do lots of work with you. Look for one in decent condition. You can realistically expect that a good used machines will require near zero upkeep for the first few years. If it were me, I'd look first to be buying from a local or neighbor.

And some of the things you learn might come as a surprise. Loader breakout force may be important to you, or turning radius, or hydraulic flow, or remote hydraulics. How about quick-attach buckets or attachments? Tire type? Transmission? Control layout? Depending on your back, joints, and body, even operating position can be a deciding factor. Plan on making your first machine a teaching tool. It'll teach you what to look for and still do a lot of work.
rScotty

Felt like I needed to come back to this. Any recommendations on a particular used 4 WD to research? Because, honestly that's why I've been looking at new ones, the older ones are still pretty steep. I'd almost rather just buy an old Massey, JD or Ford 2WD for 5k or less and see how that goes for a year. Does that make any sense? I figure that I can get my money back out of it a year later, or better yet, maybe I love it and save 25-30K.

 

[Tractorable]

When I first bought my property I was flat broke after the big down payment so I bought a 1952 Ford 8N for $2000. It has definitely taught me a lot about what I would like in my next tractor. Namely, 4WD, diff lock, independent PTO, loader, HST, etc. Basically, anything good on a tractor, I don't have, but I get by.

When it snowed 30 inches here in Virginia, the N was completely useless in that deep of snow on our steep hills. I vowed to one day get a tractor that could handle clearing 30 inches of snow from our 1/3 mile gravel lane. That day hasn't come yet, but it will.

The good thing about the N is that it's cheap, reliable, easy to fix, and I can get parts anywhere. It has been good for bush hogging, towing a wagon, and using a rear blade on occasion.

So getting an old tractor to cover you until you get a more capable tractor can be a good plan. You can save a lot of money and learn more about what you need. If I went with an old tractor again I'd probably go for an old Ford 4000, something with a diff lock and independent PTO.

 

[frugalangler]

snipped up to:

Could really use the backhoe but shew $$$$$ will have to wait.

Any input on any of that is appreciated as that's all guesswork on my part.

I also am shopping for a package, what I will suggest from what I've seen is that if you ARE going to need a backhoe in the short time future, acquire it with the tractor - DON'T use a 3-point if you're going to be doing anything other than simple straight line trenching, as I've got a couple friends that have bent 3-point components with angular forces ripping tree roots. Also, many manufacturers now aren't warranting issues pertaining to having used a 3-point backhoe. I've actually seen that disclaimer on literature lately. Also, I'm assuming you're likely to finance this, including it in the package will be less expensive overall both in package discount and finance rate - something to consider.