Increase dump angle

[magicheater]

I am dissatisfied with the angle on my dump trailer, another 15 degrees and everything would come out when I dump all the time. I have found a set of longer cylinders and have the room to install them if I modify the undercarriage. Anyone do this?

 

[Dmace]

I have never done this but I do think that you may not have enough hydraulic oil capacity for the longer and possibly larger cylinder. I know my dump trailer's reservoir is almost empty when the trailer is fully dumped and completely full when the trailer is down. You may need to modify or replace the hydraulic container.

 

[Eagleview]

You could move the existing cylinders rearward which will do what you want at a sacrifice of lift capacity . But I would think the stock cylinders are capable of lifting more than they are now so would probably be OK for general yard work unless you are carrying wet sand etc .

 

[magicheater]

I have never done this but I do think that you may not have enough hydraulic oil capacity for the longer and possibly larger cylinder. I know my dump trailer's reservoir is almost empty when the trailer is fully dumped and completely full when the trailer is down. You may need to modify or replace the hydraulic container.

Very good point, Thank you. I had not thought of that aspect.

You could move the existing cylinders rearward which will do what you want at a sacrifice of lift capacity . But I would think the stock cylinders are capable of lifting more than they are now so would probably be OK for general yard work unless you are carrying wet sand etc .

I had planned keeping the contact point on the bed the same or perhaps moving that forward depending on what cylinders I was able to get on the cheap. I have a set eyed at the surplus center that might be overkill but I can make it work with what I have on the trailer frame itself. I tend to overload my trailers and would not want to sacrifice ANY lift capacity. My goal is to be able to completely dump the load even when the terrain presents a slightly uphill geometry. You don't have to raise it all the way but if you need more and don't have it, it sucks. Jerking the trailer back and forth to loosen your cargo only invites bad things to happen.

 

[Eagleview]

They may have plenty of capacity to do what you want even moved rearward .
You can also use a tow bar and ball on your linkage so you can also lift the draw bar to give more dump angle .

 

[magicheater]

They may have plenty of capacity to do what you want even moved rearward .
You can also use a tow bar and ball on your linkage so you can also lift the draw bar to give more dump angle .

Not sure I am familiar with your last but I do know that there is some interesting engineering that goes on down under.

Here are some more pics that show the variables I have to work with without making it a major headache to accomplish. 1st being the inadequate dump angle (for me), 2nd being the amount I could move the larger cylinder forward and 3rd the options I have for moving the contact point on the the bed forward for increased lift capacity given the replacement cylinder has equal or greater specs. And yes my battery was low and I have it on charge!

 

[Eagleview]

This is one type , you have then the added lift height of your linkage to raise the draw bar which would help a lot .

I see what you mean , the tipping angle is way to shallow . It's as if those multi drilled plates need to be turned around and put on the other side of the cross member to give more lift height .

 

[LD1]

Without knowing all the measurments of the pivots in relation to the cylinder, the cylinder size extended and retracted, and the bore of the cyls and pressure, it is hard to say exactally how much force you are generating. But it is not hard to measure and figure. I had to go through it all with my dump truck build I did about a year ago. With two 2.5" x 30" cylinders I was able to get a dump force of ~ 19000lbs. Those cylinders look about the same size with similar geometry. That trailer should easially be able to dump 15k if you are generating 2500+psi. In which case I dont think moving the cylinders rearward would hurt. But some of those 12v pump units only produce 1600psi, which may be another obstacle.

Getting longer cylinders shouldn't be too difficult if you are ok at fab work. As to the hyd. capacity, you have two options. 1. You could get/make a bigger resivoir. Or 2. If possible due to your dump/valve combo, you could use the double acting cylinders. This way, you only have to make up fliud for the diameter of to rod for the given length you extend the cylinder, instead of the whole volume of the cylinder diameter.

Here is a link to my dump bed. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/158521-turning-1985-dodge-into-real.html

Check out post 9 to see some of the masurments involveed. If you could post some of those measurments, myself or someone else can help you figure your exact dump angle and dump force. And more important, we can figure how much more angle you can get out of a 2" longer cylinder, or what the effects of moving the cylinder will have on your force, etc.

 

[CurlyDave]

I am dissatisfied with the angle on my dump trailer, another 15 degrees and everything would come out when I dump all the time. I have found a set of longer cylinders and have the room to install them if I modify the undercarriage. Anyone do this?

I have a very similar dump trailer.

It will always dump with a load of waste wood, misc. debris, sand, gravel, or even concrete chunks.

The problem comes with wet sticky dirt or clay, which will not come out of the bed easily.

I have solved the problem by putting a layer of paper, from one of those big rolls of kraft paper sold at building supply houses, in the trailer and then spraying with used motor oil, or even hydraulic oil before loading wet dirt or clay into the trailer. The load always comes out nice and clean and easy, even if it takes me several days to accumulate a full load, with drizzling rain the whole time.

Maybe not as elegant as bigger, longer cylinders, but very cost effective considering that I only carry problem loads 5-10 times per year...

P.S. Considering the way some types of dirt stick to my FEL bucket and hoe bucket, it is not obvious to me that another 15 degrees would do the trick. Also, look at what happens with the bottom rear of your bed if you increase the dump angle. The pivot point is well forward of the back of the bed and increasing the dump angle will bring the back of the bed closer to the ground. What happens with mine is that with an easy dumping load, the debris pile actually runs forward a bit and some of it ends up under the back of the bed. With a higher dump angle, the back of the bed will hit the top of the debris pile.

 

[magicheater]

I have a very similar dump trailer.

It will always dump with a load of waste wood, misc. debris, sand, gravel, or even concrete chunks.

The problem comes with wet sticky dirt or clay, which will not come out of the bed easily.

I have solved the problem by putting a layer of paper, from one of those big rolls of kraft paper sold at building supply houses, in the trailer and then spraying with used motor oil, or even hydraulic oil before loading wet dirt or clay into the trailer. The load always comes out nice and clean and easy, even if it takes me several days to accumulate a full load, with drizzling rain the whole time.

Maybe not as elegant as bigger, longer cylinders, but very cost effective considering that I only carry problem loads 5-10 times per year...

P.S. Considering the way some types of dirt stick to my FEL bucket and hoe bucket, it is not obvious to me that another 15 degrees would do the trick. Also, look at what happens with the bottom rear of your bed if you increase the dump angle. The pivot point is well forward of the back of the bed and increasing the dump angle will bring the back of the bed closer to the ground. What happens with mine is that with an easy dumping load, the debris pile actually runs forward a bit and some of it ends up under the back of the bed. With a higher dump angle, the back of the bed will hit the top of the debris pile.

All valid points Dave, I don't anticipate any problems from the debris pile. I would like to have as much angle as I could feasibly get. Real dump trucks have a high angle. I also will go over the floor as I have noticed there are protrusions that the shovel catches on from welding that were not ground. I measured the angle at full dump and it is only 36-37 degrees. My goal would be at least 50 degrees, if not more. My previous dump trailer had a 45 degree angle and I had way less problems but it was too small for my present needs. I appreciate everyone's input and will check in with pics if/when I get to this project.