Info on Hydraulic Top Link needed

[Turkeytrack]

Thanks bubbacuse77. The photos are great. Your link looks good

 

[Turkeytrack]

Thanks for the link TrippleR but I plan to buy cylinder and modify it to what I need. I try to do everything i can myself.That is why I am requesting specs for a cylinder , don't want to buy one that will not work

 

[LD1]

What you need to do is hook up to a few of your implements you use frequently. Just hook up the lower arms and set to about operating height.

Then measure pin center to pin center the length the toplink needs to be. If you have multiple locations to put the toplink on the tractor side, I'd use the middle hole. Write down your results, as they are likely to be different.

Might look something like this:
Bushhog.....28"
Rear blade 26"
Trailer mover 25"
box blade 27"

etc etc.

Take your shortest number and subtract 4". Take the highest and add 4"

In the example above, that would be 25" -4" and 28" + 4". Which is 21"-32". Thats the range I'd shoot for in a cylinder.


as mentined, I have a 3x12. I would probably be happy with a 3x10....but certainly not a 3x8. Too much variation in my implements and how I use them.

And if I had an 8540, I'd probably be considering a 3.5" bore cylinder. Not that a 3" or even a 2.5" wouldnt have the power, but a larger bore lowers the pressure needed to do the work, and lowers the pressure spikes in the cylinder and hoses when you have something heavy bouncing around over bumpy ground.

 

[Turkeytrack]

Thanks LD1. I think the measuring is a good idea. All I am going to use the hydraulic top link for is a landscape rake and a box blade. My bushhog is a pull type batwing , i just set the OEM toplink for the hay unroller, and my hay rake is hydraulic and once i get my cutting machine angle set i don't mess with it.That about covers everything i use the 3 pt for. The only other 2 implements i have are a litter spreader and an aerator, they are both pull type.

 

[TripleR]

Thanks for the link TrippleR but I plan to buy cylinder and modify it to what I need. I try to do everything i can myself.That is why I am requesting specs for a cylinder , don't want to buy one that will not work

Mine is not on my tractor now or I would measure it for you, see if this helps:http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/273331-hydraulic-top-link-homemade.html?highlight=

 

[Leejohn]

On my 4240 I use a 14" stroke, the B7800 I use a 12" and my BX2660 I have a 10" on it. I use mine different then you need right now. My forks for my B7800 I use on the 3pt along with the loader and that is nice. The L4240 when I use my carry all as a weight box I can just dump the gravel out of it.

 

[Turkeytrack]

The box blade I ordered from Everything Attachments arrived yesterday. I got the large shank heavy duty 8' one. I hooked it up and measured my OEM top link,it is 29" center pin/center pin. I ordered a cylinder from Surplus Center, it id 22 1/4" retracted,3" bore,1.5"rod,12" stroke. It has clevis ends, I am going to make a "poor boy's" pivot block for the ends. But bow season opens tomorrow so i won't do much except hunt and work till after the first of the year.
I want to thank everybody for all the good advise and suggestions

 

[LD1]

The box blade I ordered from Everything Attachments arrived yesterday. I got the large shank heavy duty 8' one. I hooked it up and measured my OEM top link,it is 29" center pin/center pin. I ordered a cylinder from Surplus Center, it id 22 1/4" retracted,3" bore,1.5"rod,12" stroke. It has clevis ends, I am going to make a "poor boy's" pivot block for the ends. But bow season opens tomorrow so i won't do much except hunt and work till after the first of the year.
I want to thank everybody for all the good advise and suggestions

Sounds like the specs for the cylinder I used. You would NOT have been happy with an 8" cylinder and 20-28 range.

I'd just get the ball swivels. They are only a few bucks each.

Category 2 Top Link Ball End, 1-1/8 In Shank Diameter

 

[Turkeytrack]

Sounds like the specs for the cylinder I used. You would NOT have been happy with an 8" cylinder and 20-28 range.

I'd just get the ball swivels. They are only a few bucks each.

Category 2 Top Link Ball End, 1-1/8 In Shank Diameter

I may get a ball swivel for the work (rod) end , but I don't want to weld on the barrel end because we will be swapping it from my M8540 to a friends JD7130 and I did NOT measure his JD. If I use a block pivot on the barrel end I can make longer (if need be)by making another ,longer, block pivot
LD1 Thank You

 

[LD1]

Fair enough. I only had one tractor to deal with when making mine.

This post shows how mine turned out http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...mx5100-3-remotes-under-500-a.html#post4517053