Trial and error, Richard, trial and error until you find out what works best for you./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif Different rotary cutters have different designs for the top link. I've never used a chain in place of the top link on the tractor, but in 1995, I bought a new Bush Hog Squealer that had a chain from the top of the "A" frame to the rear of the deck (bottom legs of the "A" frame could swivel on those two bolts). That was what allowed basically the same movement as using a chain for a top link on the tractor. I'm not sure I've been able to describe it so you can imagine what it looked like, and Bush Hog no longer uses that system; they now have the two metal straps from the top of the "A" frame to the rear of the deck. My 1999 Bush Hog finish mower had the top link swivel as shown in the picture someone else has posted. And my 1999 Howse 500 rotary cutter had slots instead of round holes for the top link to attach to. The Howse manual recommended using the "float" position on the three point. I tried it; it works, but it seemed to me that puts a considerable compression stress on the tractor's top link as well as the metal braces from the "A" frame to the rear of the deck on the rotary cutter. And I eventually settled for merely adjusting the rear wheel height to what I wanted, then setting the front height level, or slightly lower, with the 3-point hitch, with the top link adjusted so there was no stress or tension in either direction on level ground. And now I'm not at all sure you can understand what I've described without pictures./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif