Ingersoll Randｮ 7.5 HP 80 Gallon Two Stage Air Compressor

[ray66v]

Again, you're totally ignoring facts. I'm only going to point out one, since the rest are as easily discovered. You said IR doesn't give the weight for T-30. Well, the very first link I provided was IR's spec sheet listing T-30 as an ISO 100 oil....or 96.7 cSt if you want to be specific. Again, anybody can read that. They don't make XL-300 any longer, but all the companies making an equivalent (which IR says is okay) show them as ISO 100 oils.

IR says to use T-30 for low temps....a synthetic ISO oil which WILL make a significant difference over a conventional ISO 100 oil according to IR, and all the data that company after company provide for equivalent oils.

You say it won't make a difference, IR and a bunch of other companies say it will make a difference. I'll go with what the professionals suggest.

As I said, you can never be too specific on TBN.

I was clearly referring to the SAE weight, which is indicated in the previous sentience.

The weight you are giving, is at 104 degrees F. Which is in no way relevant to the weight in low temperatures. However, I bet you will disagree.

BTW: Have you read the paragraph in the manual, about changing from mineral oil, to synthetic oil? Or, do you ignore that too?

It's not just a matter of draining the old oil mineral oil, and installing the new synthetic oil. I spent some time reading about that. And, it's actually a hassle.

Some will no doubt say they just drained one, and refilled it with the other. And, others will tell you they just run motor oil. But, if you do this by the OEM recommendations, it requires de-carbonization of the entire compressor. Which can mean pulling the head, and flushing the crankcase with a special solvent.

This solvent is also expensive. And, from what I saw, not available in small quantities. Otherwise, the carbon can clog up the bearings, and any small passages, which you should know is not good.

 

[GManBart]

As I said, you can never be too specific on TBN.

I was clearly referring to the SAE weight, which is indicated in the previous sentience.

The weight you are giving, is at 104 degrees F. Which is in no way relevant to the weight in low temperatures. However, I bet you will disagree.

Wow, talk about not understanding oil. First off, when you're talking about machinery lubrication, ISO is the standard typically used. SAE is typically used for engine crankcase oils.

Second, viscosity ratings are standardized at either a low temp (40*C or 100*F) or a high temp (100*C or 210*F). Pour point specifications will indicate which oil is better at lower temperatures.

After all of that, when you compare T-30 to XL-300, you're still looking at two oils with the same viscosity rating. The synthetic T-30 is significantly better at low temps even though the two oils are the same weight.

BTW: Have you read the paragraph in the manual, about changing from mineral oil, to synthetic oil? Or, do you ignore that too?

I read it, but it has nothing to do with the discussion at hand. If I had a compressor filled with conventional oil that was having difficulty starting in low temps, I'd follow the process and replace it with synthetic.

 

[ray66v]

Wow, talk about not understanding oil. First off, when you're talking about machinery lubrication, ISO is the standard typically used. SAE is typically used for engine crankcase oils.

Second, viscosity ratings are standardized at either a low temp (40*C or 100*F) or a high temp (100*C or 210*F). Pour point specifications will indicate which oil is better at lower temperatures.


Yes and your still mai

After all of that, when you compare T-30 to XL-300, you're still looking at two oils with the same viscosity rating. The synthetic T-30 is significantly better at low temps even though the two oils are the same weight.



I read it, but it has nothing to do with the discussion at hand. If I had a compressor filled with conventional oil that was having difficulty starting in low temps, I'd follow the process and replace it with synthetic.

I already agreed with you, a while ago, that if the compressor has the wrong oil in it for low temp operation, the correct oil will make a difference.

 

[koamfps]

Thanks for all the suggestions... The oil I am using is a synthetic. It's what came with the compressor. Sorry I didn't answer that sooner. I kind think I'm Screwed. I put it in the barn to get it out of the way and not have to listen to it when it's running. Buried all my air lines thought I was on to something. All it turned out to be was a headache in the winter for sure!

 

[ray66v]

Thanks for all the suggestions... The oil I am using is a synthetic. It's what came with the compressor. Sorry I didn't answer that sooner. I kind think I'm Screwed. I put it in the barn to get it out of the way and not have to listen to it when it's running. Buried all my air lines thought I was on to something. All it turned out to be was a headache in the winter for sure!

Glad to hear you are using an oil recommended for cold weather. Now perhaps we can move on.

If you are rethinking this setup, without a way to drain them, under ground air lines can present problems with condensate.

 

[koamfps]

Driers at both ends. got that part covered.

 

[farmer2009]

Would an addition to your shop be feasible? Like a compressor room that's well insulated with a sound proofing insulation. Two windows so in summer you can let it breath. This would also let a small milk house heater keep it 50-60* all winter. Then air lines just run through wall not underground.

 

[paulfun9]

I simply ran my air intake to the outside of the garage. Without that inside the noise level is more than tolerable the compressor is actually fairly quiet without the air intake making its racket.

 

[kevingweq]

Boy nothing like an oil thread to get the the old oil pump fired up ehh ! Here is an interesting video on cold weather oil performance
kinda old school but pretty neat ,Sorry no compressor info , but still kinda fits in

part 1 http://youtu.be/OWiQyR7PWII

part 2 http://youtu.be/ETKECO86VS4

 

[MinnesotaEric]

So, I have this beast in my barn so I don't have to listen to it start up and run while i'm in my work shop. Got a problem. I live in Michigan and in the winter I can't get the compressor to kick over without popping a breaker. The compressor oil thickens to the point I can't get it to crank. I have used crankcase heaters (the kind you stick on the side of the crankcase and and plug in) it worked okay last year but when I plugged it in this fall I **** near burnt the barn down!!! The heater shorted out. can't chance that happening while i'm not around Bars 100 years old!
Anyone had any experience with this problem? What did you do to keep the oil warm enough to be able to utilize the compressor in cold weather?
Moving it into the work shop is not an option.

Thanks

That is what I have. Runs on a 60 amp 240V and kicks over in the cold. I'm running 5w30 in the compressor.