See if you can put a selenoid on the well, triggered by the sprinkler controller, to turn the well on while irrigating. Or, design the system to use a flow close to your well capability; that will keep the pump on... You do not want the well cycling; that will wear the pump out.
Use head to head coverage. The spray from one head should hit the head next to it. If not, you will not have proper coverage.
Most spray heads work in the 15-30 psi range, at the spray head. Less than 15psi, and they won't pop up consistently. More than 30psi, and the heads will mist instead of spraying; mist is very ineffective.
Due to friction loss in the pipe, you may need 50 psi at the valve so 30 psi reaches the head, but you only need 30 psi max at the actual spray head.
If you want to use spray on some zones, and impacts on others, you need to split your system so you can regulate them seperately. Also, not many impacts or rotors like 6-8gpm...
Your design pressure and volume may not match your supply, especially static. Your well may not flow 8gpm at 50psi
The best reference I have used is the Rainbird catalog. In my short expierience, I had the best performance and reliability from Rainbird products, although Hunter PGP rotors were nice.
The biggest factor is to find the volume per pressure that your well can flow consistently. You want to flow test your well at like 30psi, 40psi, and 50psi. I believe the Rainbird catalog has that info.
Also, do not buy Home Depot/Lowes/Ace sprinklers. Even the name brands are consumer grade; go to a good plumbing or irrigation place. There is a difference...
Make sure you filter the water before it goes in to your system. Grit from the well will clog your spray heads(make sure the spray heads have thier little filters installed too).
Run bigger pipe for smaller friction losses, especially since you are coming off a well; you want every advantage you can get.
