repete
Veteran Member
I have about 5700 hours on my l2550DT. I was considering getting the injectors cleaned. Has anyone ever had this done?
Injector cleaning
- Thread starter repete
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20 20
Elite Member
Did my own on my tractor, jinma 254, was not really hard at all on that machine. Just needed to make sure I didn't mess with the adjustment screws{which I did OOOPs}. I think the injectors should be cleaned/checked as part of proper maintenance, helps with proper performance of engine.
Bedlam
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2005
- Messages
- 1,883
I sthere a generic way to clean them? I have never thought of doing mine
Chilly807
Elite Member
With regard to injector cleaning, it's the business I'm in. 99% of owners aren't equipped to clean or test injectors properly, unfortunately for most of us.
What should be done is to remove them from the engine, give them an external cleaning and inspection for wear on the tips. Indirect injection tips are the pintle type, same as Volkswagen. After about 160,000 km or 2000 hours on average, the tips will need service due to metal erosion, which normally means replacing them.
Not a big deal, they aren't that expensive. However, it takes a properly equipped fuel injection shop to dismantle, rebuild and test them afterwards. Most of us simply don't have the right equipment to do it. Most dealers don't either. They will either replace the old ones with new or rebuilt injectors, or ship them off to a specialty shop to have the work done.
I'd say you're looking at maybe $75 to $100 per cylinder to have the work done right, not including labour costs to remove and replace them. You can do that yourself if you're mechanically inclined and have the shop manuals needed.
Not great news for do-it-yourself kinda guys, which includes me, but some things really ARE better left to professionals.
My 2 cents,
Chilly
What should be done is to remove them from the engine, give them an external cleaning and inspection for wear on the tips. Indirect injection tips are the pintle type, same as Volkswagen. After about 160,000 km or 2000 hours on average, the tips will need service due to metal erosion, which normally means replacing them.
Not a big deal, they aren't that expensive. However, it takes a properly equipped fuel injection shop to dismantle, rebuild and test them afterwards. Most of us simply don't have the right equipment to do it. Most dealers don't either. They will either replace the old ones with new or rebuilt injectors, or ship them off to a specialty shop to have the work done.
I'd say you're looking at maybe $75 to $100 per cylinder to have the work done right, not including labour costs to remove and replace them. You can do that yourself if you're mechanically inclined and have the shop manuals needed.
Not great news for do-it-yourself kinda guys, which includes me, but some things really ARE better left to professionals.
My 2 cents,
Chilly
PUSHINDIRT
Silver Member
Did you say 5700 hours? Did I read that right? That is just amazing and shows how long a good quality/ properly maintained machine can last!
manganos
Platinum Member
You might consider getting them pop tested and get new nozzles installed. If you do it yourself make sure you are in a VERY clean environment 
20 20
Elite Member
Chilly807, words of wisdom.
Yes we can clean and inspect for wear but DON'T mess with the adjustments. They are not hard to pull out, clean off outside, check for issue's then replace.
Yes we can clean and inspect for wear but DON'T mess with the adjustments. They are not hard to pull out, clean off outside, check for issue's then replace.
Chilly807
Elite Member
I'll try to get a few pics of worn tips vs. good ones when the opportunity presents itself.
The most critical things are good atomization of the fuel and a decent spray pattern. Opening pressure is important too, but it can be out quite a bit and you won't notice much difference in operation.
Usually if the injectors are getting bad you'll get more black smoke than usual, may be harder starting too. Fuel consumption usually goes up a bit too, but most of us won't notice that unless we do the same job day in and day out repetitively.
If you do pull them and clean them yourself, use only a soft wire brush on the nozzle tips. A brass brush is best, a barbecue brush will do the trick. Hard steel bristles are bad news, and a wire wheel is not good either.
I'm not sure if Kubota puts copper or aluminum washers between the injector and the head or not, if they do be sure you get the old one out when you remove the injector. Either use new ones (preferable) or anneal the old ones before re-installing.
Chilly
The most critical things are good atomization of the fuel and a decent spray pattern. Opening pressure is important too, but it can be out quite a bit and you won't notice much difference in operation.
Usually if the injectors are getting bad you'll get more black smoke than usual, may be harder starting too. Fuel consumption usually goes up a bit too, but most of us won't notice that unless we do the same job day in and day out repetitively.
If you do pull them and clean them yourself, use only a soft wire brush on the nozzle tips. A brass brush is best, a barbecue brush will do the trick. Hard steel bristles are bad news, and a wire wheel is not good either.
I'm not sure if Kubota puts copper or aluminum washers between the injector and the head or not, if they do be sure you get the old one out when you remove the injector. Either use new ones (preferable) or anneal the old ones before re-installing.
Chilly
20 20
Elite Member
Chilly807, we're going to have to change your user name to the Injectonator
Chilly807
Elite Member
When it's something you do every other day, you can pretty much do it in your sleep ! It's part of the reason I'd never have anything but a diesel tractor. Being able to do your own fuel work takes the guesswork out of owning one.
Having said that, you'll probably never see a diesel truck or car in my yard. in my opinion the added cost takes so long to recover in fuel economy for most of us that it doesn't make any sense. We did some calculations at work a couple years ago, and it would take the average driver almost 20 years to recover the cost of the TDI option on a Volkswagen Jetta !! That's not taking into account additional cost for more oil, different filters, etc.
Chilly
Having said that, you'll probably never see a diesel truck or car in my yard. in my opinion the added cost takes so long to recover in fuel economy for most of us that it doesn't make any sense. We did some calculations at work a couple years ago, and it would take the average driver almost 20 years to recover the cost of the TDI option on a Volkswagen Jetta !! That's not taking into account additional cost for more oil, different filters, etc.
Chilly
20 20
Elite Member
I finally switch over to a diesel truck and love it. I get 20+miles to the gal and can haul 6 times what my other truck could{only around 17MPG}. I also believe a diesel will outlast a gas engine so in the end would you really loose?
Chilly807
Elite Member
I agree with you about the hauling capability, and for the horsepower being developed the fuel economy is better. I don't use a truck as a truck much, it's usually a car with one less seat and 4 wheel drive. If I were hauling heavy all the time, a diesel would be a viable option.
Chilly
Chilly
jimmer2880
Platinum Member
That's why I bought my TDI Jetta used, with over 100,000 miles on it. It only took me 1 year to pay the difference for TDI vs Gasser (I did the math). It only took me 18 months, in fuel mileage only, to pay for the vehicle from switching to a TDI from a Jeep Wrangler.
Chilly807
Elite Member
I bet ! What were you getting for mileage with the Jeep, maybe low 20's at best?
I put on quite a few miles myself back and forth to work and so on, so the diesel would make sense. I didn't like the way diesel fuel stayed above the price of gas here for a year or so. I also think Volkswagen has had some quality issues in the past few years too, so I'm a little leery of taking that plunge.
I wish Honda would get off their asses and build a diesel for the Accord, I have an '03 now and really like the car. Give it a couple years on the market to work the bugs out, then I'm ready to trade up.
Chilly
I put on quite a few miles myself back and forth to work and so on, so the diesel would make sense. I didn't like the way diesel fuel stayed above the price of gas here for a year or so. I also think Volkswagen has had some quality issues in the past few years too, so I'm a little leery of taking that plunge.
I wish Honda would get off their asses and build a diesel for the Accord, I have an '03 now and really like the car. Give it a couple years on the market to work the bugs out, then I'm ready to trade up.
Chilly
Shimon
Platinum Member
If the injectors have 5700 hours and you are going to the trouble of pulling them out then I wouldn't even bother testing them. Just have them rebuilt (new nozzle tips). They have gone above and beyond the call of duty...time to retire them. The nozzle tips should be about $25 unless they are something esoteric and the labor to rebuild should bring the cost to around $100 an injector (depending on location). If you do remove/install them yourself, make sure to get new seating coppers and clean the injector bores well. Don't forget you'll need new coppers for the return lines (depending on the style of return line...some just use rubber lines with clamps). And there is a specific torque setting to crush the seating copper properly. A little antiseize on the body of the injector also helps a little (just on the sides...not down low near the seating copper).
I think I am going to get new injectors. It probably deserves it.
It sure has been a good little tractor. I grease it regularly and change the oil and filter every 100 hours. Change the transmission fluid and filter every year and change differential fluid yearly as well. Anytime I get any crud in the fuel filter I change it too.
The only other regular thing I do is clean the radiator core about twice a year and keep the screen clear as well. Kind of a pain as I have to take off the loader to get it out. It gets a good cleaning before it is haying time since I remove the loader and after prior to replacing the loader. Mows and bales about 40 acres.
It sure has been a good little tractor. I grease it regularly and change the oil and filter every 100 hours. Change the transmission fluid and filter every year and change differential fluid yearly as well. Anytime I get any crud in the fuel filter I change it too.
The only other regular thing I do is clean the radiator core about twice a year and keep the screen clear as well. Kind of a pain as I have to take off the loader to get it out. It gets a good cleaning before it is haying time since I remove the loader and after prior to replacing the loader. Mows and bales about 40 acres.
Willl
Elite Member
I think your doing fine.
You got a happy tractor, why mess with it ?
You got a happy tractor, why mess with it ?
