Installing a hot water booster heater versus hot water recirculating setup

[grsthegreat]

Do you have a favorite brand/type? (@grsthegreat, too?)

All the best, Peter

I use the ones made by Yolink. Sold on amazon. They have both direct drop in bottom of cabinet kinds ( i use this type under refer, sinks, etc) and ones with probes (i use these in catch pans under waterheater) . The same system also handles driveway alert, temp and humidity protection for refrigerator and freezers and wifes greenhouse. This also controls heaters for diesel trucks and tractor. I control my tractor heater from 300’ away. It has AMAZING range. Even tells me is a signal is lost or wifi is down.

 

[grsthegreat]

The freezer and refer units are simple puck devices that you toss into refer or freezer. No cables to the outside. Batteries have lasted way over a year now, still shows good strength. You can set the alert temps range your looking for. Very easy to set up. Great customer service. Any question ive had they have emailed me a response within a few hours…..even on a sunday.

 

[Popgadget]

Go with the small water heater at the bathroom. That wasn’t an option for me, I used the thermostatic valve and return through the cold water line.
The recirculating is controlled by a flow switch and timer. Works well, but now I have to wait for cold water, who’s is far less of an issue. This is in the kitchen sink.

 

[kebo]

We built with option 3, using a 120v, 6 gal water heater in a small space in the Master Closet, feeding the Master Bath and Laundry room. It works great and is efficient as it never heats cold water since it's being fed with already hot water from the boiler.

Except...I'm seriously thinking about changing it to 8 gals.

For the shower in the winter, it's instant hot water for about 6 minutes, but since it's near 100 feet from the on-demand gas hot water boiler in the garage, minutes 6 and 7 are luke warm, then it's back to forever hot from minute 8 on...

I think an 8 gal would allow sufficient volume for mixing the cold water in the 100' run plus bridge the minute or so for the garage on-demand to generate hot water.

It's less noticeable in the other 3 seasons when warm rather than hot water is generally used.

The footprint is minimal, and the 8 gal wouldn't be much bigger, and shouldn't cost much more on average to operate.

The boot was included for size reference in the 1st photo! And the reflected green light is visible from the cubby hole behind the door in the 2nd photo.View attachment 3113365View attachment 3113366

Thank you for this input, this was the kind of "real world" experience I was looking for here. If I go with option #3, which is what I am leaning towards, I was thinking an 18 gal or heater would be good, but after reading your post I tend to agree that perhaps a 10 gal water heater might be sufficient? I priced a few online and it seems I can get one for $299, plus tax. So, I'm seriously thinking about getting a water heater that size and get it plumbed in and wired up and see how much improvement there is. Thanks again for your feedback!

 

[kebo]

Go with the small water heater at the bathroom. That wasn’t an option for me, I used the thermostatic valve and return through the cold water line.
The recirculating is controlled by a flow switch and timer. Works well, but now I have to wait for cold water, who’s is far less of an issue. This is in the kitchen sink.

This is what I am leaning towards at the moment, maybe a 10 gal size tank that will run off of 120V. Thanks for the input!

 

[grsthegreat]

I have a 10 gal 110v wh above the tack room in my horse barn. Last one went about 15 years before i had to replace it. Not efficient at all, but works ok. Didnt want to spend the $$$$ on a instanthot system