installing door in pole barn

[mike cook]

I was wondering if any body has a picture showing how you frame up for your walk in door ?? and also how you trimmed out the outside of it thanks

 

[tman1020]

Here is one way. Can only post pic at a time

 

[tman1020]

I like to take the posts all the way to the roof framing.

 

[tman1020]

 

[joeyd]

Here are a few I took during construction. I hope you can enlarge them and see the detail you need.

 

[KennyG]

I think you are seeing a pretty consistent pattern here. I don't have a chance right now to show the details, but here are a few pictures of a door replacement I did. The original door was all metal (door and frame) and made for the 6" thick poles and metal siding, but it was installed badly and completely rusted out. I replaced it with a standard residential metal pre-hung door. I started out by putting in new 2x6 studs all the way up, as tman recommended. I then framed the door opening inside these studs with 2x4s, biased to be even with the inside of the 2x6s (because I was going to finish the interior. I then installed the pre-hung door, with brick mold trim, into the 2x4s. This left the door recessed, but when I put new siding on, I trimmed it out with metal trim inserted into the gap between the 2x6s and the brick mold. Worked out very well. I won't be back home until this weekend but I will try to get some detailed photos to show how the final trim worked out.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

KennyG, was the trim something you put together or was it purpose-made metal siding trim? It looks like it matches the other doors really well.

 

[KennyG]

It is the standard "L", "J", and drip edge trim that is available from the metal siding suppliers. I replaced all the siding and trim after I replaced the entry door and added a new second overhead door.

 

[mike cook]

thanks guys this helps I'm used to regular framing with studs vertical my main thing is to keep things flashed and water tight wish me luck mike

 

[DJ54]

I used the vinyl brick mold trim, attaching it with Stainless screws, when replacing the wooden stuff, after it started rotting within 3 years.

 

[PhysAssist]

thanks guys this helps I'm used to regular framing with studs vertical my main thing is to keep things flashed and water tight wish me luck mike

Hi Mike,

For what it's worth, we had our man door set up to open out (stupid local fire code) and ended up liking it that way.

We mounted anti-jimmy pins in the hinge side of the door that keep anyone from opening it by removing the hinge pins, and when I get around to it, it will make mounting the hydraulic door closer much easier.
Thomas

 

[KennyG]

thanks guys this helps I'm used to regular framing with studs vertical my main thing is to keep things flashed and water tight wish me luck mike

You should have no problem. I will try to get a quick photo of the trim detail this weekend and post it here. One of things I like about using a regular door (set up for 2x4 framing) in the deeper pole barn wall is that you end up with a considerable recess. This protects the door and trim and avoids some of the problems DJ54 refers to.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

mine is like tman1020, post on both sides.

 

[KennyG]

Ok, here are a few more pictures if you would like a little more detail. The first one shows the framing with the 2x4 framing for the door inside the 2x6 framing that goes to the barn itself. I also put 2x6 treated plates on the concrete, anchored with driven nails. The second shows the final trim. A 90 degree angle trim goes just inside the brick mold and over the girts. Then the j-strip on the sides and drip edge goes over that and the siding goes on. I should caulk between the brick mold and trim but I haven't done that yet. The last picture is the finished inside.