installing drainage pipe

   / installing drainage pipe #1  

farmerjim

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Jan 17, 2005
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Location
new london county,ct
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jd h, jd 50, jd2010,jd 790,case530hoe
i need to install some drainage around my house as its old and has a stone foundation and when it rains for a few days it will flood. it has a 4in pipe that goes out into the yard from the low corner to i'm assuming an old dry well, which i think i have a good idea of its location. my plan is to dig up the old 4in pipe near the foundation and cut it off then add a new pipe and run it out down hill to where it would be at level grade w/ and that would allow whatever water goes into the basement to easily exit w/ out backing up. i also plan to add a catch basin and some pipe along the up hill side of the house and then cover it w/ some 1 or 2 in stone and run that out to the edge of the yard which will run any water out away from the foundation. i was thinking of going down about 2-3ft w/ the pipe on the up hill side, but i'm not sure. any thoughts on what i could do better and also for the digging could i use a ditch wich type machine for the shallower portion? i will be using a bh for the deeper stuff. thanks jim
 
   / installing drainage pipe #2  
digging a trench 2' deep and 12-18" wide uphill from the house and filling with perforated pipe and gravel is a great idea - it will divert water running downhill around the house so long as you run it about 10-15' past each end of the house. BH is perfect for this. fill with washed rock - not driveway gravel, cover with weed fabric, then you can add some dirt on top to plant your grass back. This uses a lot of gravel, but you can also use some of the dirt you pull out of the trench to berm or terrace around the house - I have a friend who had this done to her houe last summer and she hasn't had any water in her basement since.

trencher/ditch witch would be great for the downhill side, as well - Home Despot rents them out for a not too bad rate - that's how I dug the trench for my puried power conduit last fall from the pole to the house.
 
   / installing drainage pipe #4  
is your foundation poured concrete or block? i would be concerned that unbackfilling would effect the stability of the foundation.
 
   / installing drainage pipe #5  
To make sure your basement does not get wet you have to make sure the water can't get to it. Check the usual suspects like surface water, grading around the house and downspouts. If that does not fix it then you need drainage pipes. Laying pipes like you mention may work if the water is not below the level of the pipes you install.
It's too late to put drainage system under the floor so you can put a drainage system around the basement walls.
Excavate around the house down to the footings. Make sure that the house will not collapse. Install drainpipes with a line going out to daylight or a dry well sized for the amount of water. Back fill with 3/4" clean crushed stone up to grade. The stone can be 2 to 3 feet in width. Use a filter fabric between the dirt and stone. The stone up against the basement wall provides a way for the water pressure to dissipate and the water will flow into the stone and down to the drainpipes at the bottom. It sounds like a lot of work but depending on your situation, it may be the best solution. I would talk to a local excavator who knows your area and the local soils.
 
   / installing drainage pipe #6  
RichNJ has a good approach, Surface Water, grading and downspouts.
90% of residential water problems are Gutters, Downspouts & Grading issues.

First, be certain gutters are in good repair, and that the downspouts lead to piping runs that go to the low side of the property. Then look at the grading around the house. Soil should slope away from the house for a minimum of 4 feet or more.

Beyond that, then you look at controlling surface water. Since it is on the surface, contouring the property works well in most cases. Re-grade, contour and add swales as needed to channel the water around to the low side of the property. In some cases, where swales are not feasible, then, that is when you resort to running the surface water into pipes, but, beware, if you are trying to channel surface water off of an acre or two, you need some big piping. I've seen many jobs where people try use 4" corrguated pipe , or 4" perf. pipe to channel enough water to fill a 16" pipe. The result is that their basement stays drier for an extra 5 or 10 minutes, the time it takes their piping system becomes overloaded.

If you have a "known" low spot, that collects water, and you cannot contour or grade the problem away, then I would first recommend a culvert, or open channel approach. If this is unsightly, or unacceptable, then use catch basins to channel the water into subterrainian piping. Don't skimp on pipe size.

BottomLine, it's easier, cheaper, and more effective to deal with surface water on the surface, than to take it underground unecessarily.

If the water problem is NOT surface water, then you have an entirely different set of problems and solutions, usually expensive.

Get a sturdy umbrella, and during the next few downpours, walk around, and observe the water, where it comes from .... where it goes. (Hint: avoid lightening.)

Good Luck
 
   / installing drainage pipe #7  
SkunkWerX said:
RichNJ has a good approach, Surface Water, grading and downspouts.
90% of residential water problems are Gutters, Downspouts & Grading issues.

First, be certain gutters are in good repair, and that the downspouts lead to piping runs that go to the low side of the property. Then look at the grading around the house. Soil should slope away from the house for a minimum of 4 feet or more.

Beyond that, then you look at controlling surface water. Since it is on the surface, contouring the property works well in most cases. Re-grade, contour and add swales as needed to channel the water around to the low side of the property. ...


Good Luck

I do not want to hijack this thread but is the proper slope for grades and swales to move water from around a house or shop during a heavy rain or spring thaw?
 
   / installing drainage pipe #8  
when building my house, we were told something on the order of a 1 in 12 or 2 in 12 slope - but that's kansas and we don't have much by way of spring thaw.
 
   / installing drainage pipe #10  
Good article on this subject and "how to" in the current issue of "Fine Home Building" Taunton Publication
 

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