Yeah Bob, I do. Not in this picture are switches for the Bat-Grapple, Bat-Smokescreen, and Bat-Ejection seat! Criminals Beware. Meanwhile, back at the Bat-cave, the Bat-guano is getting a little deep!
Actually, a few years back the stock switches were wearing out and or so dirty they didn't work very well. I found these sets of waterproof switches with back lights made for boats at a reasonable price. They were only slightly larger than the stock switches but I had to modify the mounting plates just a little to get them in. Of course the plugs on the tractor wiring harness didn't fit either so I pulled the wires out of the sockets and replaced any bad spade terminals as I went. The lighted area on the new switch was blank but there were a bunch of boat related decals to put on indicating the function. I used a left and right anchor as arrows for the turn signals. The turn-signal/Flasher lights had problems with cross lighting due to the new switches using a common ground for the back light because of they are LED. I solved that by wiring in an old bridge rectifier. It is all taped up and stuffed up behind the switches. If I ever get around (or mad enough) to make all new wiring harnesses I will do a proper job. At least now all the switches function and can be seen at night.
While I was adjusting the switch face plate I nudged the right side bank to the left a little to get room to install the LED voltmeter next to the key switch. Now I have both amp and volt meters, although the amp is in bad shape as the needle warped in the sunlight and drags a little. The oil pressure gauge is stuck most of the time, but the idiot light works as a cross check. Hopefully someday I will have time to either fix this cluster or enough money to buy a new one. Short of that I will rip the whole thing out and make a new panel with new off the shelf gauges and lights.
