wallypedal
New member
That's what mine had - a death rattle. This is a replacement engine that we truly babied and it has about 300 hours on it - bought in 2006.
I shut it down after cooling at idle always, let it just run at idle for 2-3 minutes. I hosed the deck, popped the hood, and rinsed off some of the accumulated grass and crud. Not super power washed, just hosed. Let it drain dry for an hour or so.
Went to start it and it cranked but didn't want to go. Usually 2/3 throttle and full choke is all it needs. I figured I hadn't let it dry enough and something electrical was wet. It finally sputtered and started - but there was a new and very unhealthy rattle/knock going on, so I shut it down.
Took it in the garage and started once more - no better, shut it off. Pulled the cowl off and pulled the spark plugs and the valve covers. No obvious problems with pushrods or valves. When I turned the flywheel there was a tight spot right when #1 was at TDC. I could pull it past the "tight spot", but it just wasn't normal.
I took #1 head off and there was a piece of metal about 3/32" diameter and 5/16" long. The hammered remains of a choke plate screw!! BOTH choke plate screws were gone! The top of the piston had sort of a shot peened appearance from running with that in there - but no other damage. I don't know where the other screw went, it could have gone through without damage. Maybe.
I told Briggs support and they were no help. I cleaned it all up and re-assembled with new gaskets and adjusted the valves. I used new socket head choke plate screws with blue Loctite, and smashed the exposed screw tips with vice grips. I don't think they'll come loose again. Briggs uses purple Loctite only - the wimpy grade.
It runs better and smoother than it has in a long time!
Wallypedal
I shut it down after cooling at idle always, let it just run at idle for 2-3 minutes. I hosed the deck, popped the hood, and rinsed off some of the accumulated grass and crud. Not super power washed, just hosed. Let it drain dry for an hour or so.
Went to start it and it cranked but didn't want to go. Usually 2/3 throttle and full choke is all it needs. I figured I hadn't let it dry enough and something electrical was wet. It finally sputtered and started - but there was a new and very unhealthy rattle/knock going on, so I shut it down.
Took it in the garage and started once more - no better, shut it off. Pulled the cowl off and pulled the spark plugs and the valve covers. No obvious problems with pushrods or valves. When I turned the flywheel there was a tight spot right when #1 was at TDC. I could pull it past the "tight spot", but it just wasn't normal.
I took #1 head off and there was a piece of metal about 3/32" diameter and 5/16" long. The hammered remains of a choke plate screw!! BOTH choke plate screws were gone! The top of the piston had sort of a shot peened appearance from running with that in there - but no other damage. I don't know where the other screw went, it could have gone through without damage. Maybe.
I told Briggs support and they were no help. I cleaned it all up and re-assembled with new gaskets and adjusted the valves. I used new socket head choke plate screws with blue Loctite, and smashed the exposed screw tips with vice grips. I don't think they'll come loose again. Briggs uses purple Loctite only - the wimpy grade.
It runs better and smoother than it has in a long time!
Wallypedal
